Perfect blue skies and stunning views of what must be leading contender for the best mountain scape in the world. Jangbu had got us up early, no kitchen porters to prepare breakfast and we were heading down.
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| Kanchenjunga |
Mera Peak - Day 12 Summit Day
So much happened today that I'm still trying to understand what really went on.
Started last night with the tent by tent briefing from Jangbu, no mess tent space on this tiny rocky outcrop in the middle of a glacier. He told us we would be getting woken up at 12.30 am and be leaving around 1.30, and to put on all our clothes because it would be very cold.
We had already been warned that nature can be savage in these parts when a lump of ice broke away from the glacier sending a large bang around the camp site. It then got dramatically worse. At about 8pm the wind started to blow, really blow, gale force, and I still don't understand how the tents - especially the lofty toilet tent - stayed intact. Later the wind dropped and after a short sleep intermission I lay in my sleeping bag listening and watching the most sustained thunder storm I have ever witnessed. The tent shone orange but even with my eyes shut the pyrotechnics penetrated.
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| A broken trail |
Mera Peak - Day 11 High Camp
To be honest the trip had started to feel a bit of an ordeal. I've been away from home for nearly six weeks and haven't been able to make any contact for two. Really missing Christine and the family. Also it's a small group, all men, and the conversation often struggles to get going. The Annapurna Circuit trip group was just the opposite, you really got to know everyone and at dinner the chat just buzzed.
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| The tiny dimple is Mera Central |
Mera Peak Day 8 Tangnag Acclimatisation
Still at Tangnag and today is one of our two acclimatisation days before summiting next Saturday morning. I'm lying in my tent early in the afternoon having finished the acclimatisation walk this morning, have had my first shower of the trip and eaten a large if slightly strange lunch. The tent is lovely and warm, the weather is a mixture of sun, cloud and wind, just a bit too cold outside but in here it's perfect.
We are at about 4,150 metres and you can feel the effects of the altitude. I now have a huge Exodus Five Season sleeping bag and cold nights are no longer an issue. Although it was seriously cold outside last night I slept with my head out the bag and without all the cords being pulled tight, unthinkable with my old bag. My sleep however is now broken by the need to get up, get dressed and leave the tent for a piss - it's also broken by uneven breathing. Apart from that I'm feeling really good, still no headaches and no need for medication any sort.
Mera Peak - Day 9 Khare
Was a bit suspicious about the weather this morning. Instead of the usual bright start clouds had already formed and it didn't feel at all settled. Sure enough, after we had been walking for an hour it started to snow and by the the time we reached Khare at miday - after walking about 3 and half hours - there was about 3 inches of fresh snow on the ground and it was still falling.
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| Sabai Tsho Lake and the Sabai Glacier |
Mera Peak - Day 10 Khare Acclimatisation
Had a dreadful night's sleep last night, a combination of the altitude and thoughts going through my head just kept me awake.
The weather this morning was much the same as yesterday, it continued to snow. None of this helped my mood.
Today is the day we put on our climbing gear, practice rope work and abseiling. I have never used any of this sort of gear before and felt a bit out of my depth. The guides however, and Jangbu in particular, really know their stuff and it's clear they are not going to let us fall off the mountain.
Mera Peak - Day 7 Tangnag
If the first six days of the walk were the starter the next six are the main course - we are now getting ready to climb Mera Peak.
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| Jack the American mountain man |
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