Annapurna Circuit Day 9 Thorung Phedi

Seriously cold, last night it snowed and Paul measured the temperature in his room at minus seven.  It's all very uncomfortable but despite the conditions everyone seems in great spirits and all ready for what could be, with snow on the ground, quite a difficult crossing.

Trudging out of Yak Kharka

Today's walk was a nice one and we were all togged up in all our cold weather gear.  I'm wearing boots, thermal leggings, trousers, thermal top, t-shirt, heavy fleece, 700 down jacket, snood, inner gloves and outer gloves. Today was just about OK but it was a gentle climb, tomorrow it's much steeper, we will be starting earlier and it will be much colder.  I'm definitely learning how gear performs in really cold weather.

Annapurna Circuit Day 8 Yak Kharka

Weather a bit disappointing today, not a disaster but too cloudy to see the tops of the mountains. Just as well that yesterday gave us such wonderful views of the Manang valley. 

Short walk along the trail today, about 4 hours and a climb of a couple of hundred metres up to Yak Khark. After walking underneath a gloomy and slightly intimidating Gangapurna the route turns from west to north west and up the valley towards the Thorung Pass.  The mountains in this valley, so far, are not quite on the same scale as Annapurna 2 and Gangapurna.

Up the valley from Manang

Annapurna Circuit Day 7 - at rest

Everyone on the Annapurna Circuit seems to stop at Manang for a rest or acclimatisation day before pressing on to the Thorang La, the big day, two days. It's a good place to stop, best tea house so far with toilets in the bedroom and a good menu, shops and even places to buy coffee and cake. 

Manang itself is an interesting little town, the original part of town is 800 years old and is built in the traditional style with flat roofs and integral accommodation for animals.  All the snow from the flat roofs has been swept into the narrow alleys  which, because of the amount of recent snow, were almost impassable.

Manang

Annapurna Circuit Day 6 Manang

Best walk of the trip so far, absolutely wonderful.  Great weather, particularly in the morning and huge views, a complete turnaround from yesterday.

It's a very simple walk to describe.  Retracing our steps over the bridge from Lower Pinsang we climbed steadily up the hill, past a lovely little green lake, and then more steeply, zig-zagging over open ground all the way up to Ghyaru. This is our most sustained climb of the trek so far and by the time we got to the top we had climbed over 400 metres. After a tea stop we then walk along a contour path high up on the valley side, stop for lunch at Nawal, before a gentle descent down to Manang.

Lower Pisang

Annapurna Circuit Day 5 Pisang

The stunning weather of yesterday proved to be a false dawn, today was cloudy with occasional flurries of snow and, as the wind got stronger, it got increasingly cold.  Although the deep valley to the west of Chame was spectacular we missed the big views of Annapurna II which we had been looking forward to.

Planting potatoes

Annapurna Circuit Day 4 Chame

We have now started to really to get into high mountains and on que the weather has changed.  The humid murky conditions of the first two days have been replaced by clear skies with a crisp light illuminating huge mountains covered by fresh snow. An amazing setting for a fantastic days walking.

Great day's walking

Climbing gently out of Dharapani  and looking east along a side valley you get to see the perfectly shaped Manaslu Peak, the first 8,000 metre plus peak seen on the trail and the 8th highest in the world.  To south, and much closer, is Peak 39 and after a short climb, and at the top of the trail, the panorama opens up with Annapurna 2 in the distance and Langtang Himal in the foreground.  These huge mountains dominate the views for the rest of the morning and as we climb through trees start to form a near 360 degree white panorama.

Annapurna Circuit Day 3, Dharapani

Slightly improved weather in the morning, but similar wet weather in the afternoon, the scenery however has got even better.

Deep valley on the way to Tal

The valley, heading north, has got tighter and the trail is hemmed in by huge cliffs on either side.  The steepness of the valley means there is no very little agriculture but the vegetation is still very lush.  The trail generally takes along the east side of the valley, often quite high up with great views of the river below.  There are numerous spectacular waterfalls and near one we saw a series of wide bee hives hanging beneath a ridge of rock.  On the other side of the valley the new road is being carved out of the rock face often hundreds of feet above in what looks to be incredibly dangerous work.