The Ruta Vía de la Plata - off road 2018

The Ruta Vía de la Plata is an ancient route that traverses the heart of Spain from Seville in the deep south to Gijón on the north coast. It makes its way through fabulous, empty  and visits wonderful unspoilt historic towns. Some people walk it, usually as part of a pilgrimage to Santiago del Compostela, but it's better by bike - either on the road or off-road version, or by grabbing the best of both worlds: a combination of the two.

Setting off from  Seville
I first cycled the route in 2017 as part of a longer trip that included most of the Portuguese coast. I enjoyed it so much that I decided to write a Guide and Cicerone have agreed to publish it. This year I went back to Spain and, working with the Ruta Vía de la Plata Association, cycled the off-road version. The Association involves the towns and cities along the route and their support and help has been amazing.
Cycling through the Dehesa

If you follow my blog you’ll appreciate that although I've done a lot of hiking, I've come to appreciate the joys of long-distance cycling relatively late in life. Taking my bike off-road on an 1800 km trip through remote countryside was a challenge, possibly a little foolhardy, but it all went well and exceeded my expectations. I had enjoyed the road trip last year so much that I doubted whether it could be bettered, but the off-road version added another dimension.
Roman arch at Capara

To enjoy cycling you have appreciate the physical rewards of being on a bike, which I sometimes think of as a healthy version of skiing. I always accepted that, compared to hiking, it involves a compromise in terms of the places you can get to. The big takeaway from this year's trip is that for certain types of landscape the compromise is not nearly as big as I thought it was. Cycling through the Dehesa on the southern part of the route or the Meseta on its northern part was just wonderful and I got to see so much more off-road than I did on-road.
Wide open spaces on the Meseta

The other big takeaway is that road and off-road cycling in this part of the world are complimentary. The two routes: one which follows a totally empty national “A” road with a great surface; and the other, which follows the old pilgrims' route, are never far apart and, providing you have the right bike, are interchangeable. There are stretches of the off-road route that are so good that they justify a trip to Spain in their own right, but there are also stretches that are just average and the road route provides the ideal alternative, particularly if you want to make it to the next town in time for a late Spanish lunch (arriving at 3-30 is just fine).
The world's longest Roman bridge at Mérida

Roman engineering - the aquaduct at Mérida

The towns and cities along the route are not just lunch stops; they are exciting destinations, with a list of UNESCO world heritage sites as long as your arm. Not all cyclists will be interested in seeing some of the best examples of every style of Spanish architecture but most will appreciate a couple of hours wandering around a compact historic town centre. If you’ve had that late lunch, all you need to do then is find the main square, the plaza mayor, get a table outside, order a beer and tapas and watch the world go by.
Bike is best

The guide will take a while to write and produce and it won't be on the shelves until 2020. As well as describing the road and off-road routes, it will identify a recommended hybrid version, the version I suspect most touring cyclists will choose. Recognising that a number of cyclists will want to follow the pilgrimage route through to Santiago del Compostela the guide will describe the Camino Sanabrés, a 350 km optional excursion that leaves the main route and heads northwest into Galicia.
Journey's end at Gijón

2020 is a long time to wait, but in the meantime have a look at my daily accounts at what happened on the trip in 2018 - a warts-and-all exposé of my adventure. The links, a long list I'm afraid, are listed below. If you want to find out what the road-trip was like follow the link to the 2017 trip. Finally for a more polished version of the 2017 trip go through to the Cicerone Extra article

Day 1 Ruta de la Plata - off road - El Real de la Jara
Day 2 Ruta Vía de la Plata - off road to Zafra
Day 3 Ruta Vía de la Plata  - off road to  Mérida
Day 4 Ruta Vía de la Plata  - off road to Alcuescar
Day 5 Ruta Vía de Plata - off road to Cáceres
Day 6 Ruta Vía de la Plata - off-road to Grimaldi
Day 7 Ruta Vía de la Plata - off road to Plasencia
Day 8 Ruta Vía de la Plata - off road to Béjar
Day 9 Ruta Vía de la Plata - off road to Salamanca
Day 10 Ruta Vía de la Plata - off road to Zamora
Day 11 Camino Sanabrés - off road to Tábara
Day 12 Camino del Sanabrés - off road to Puebla Sanabria
Day 13 Camino Sanabrés off-road to A Gudiña
Day 14 Camino Sanabrés - off road to Ourense
Day 15 Camino Sanabrés off-road to Lalin
Day 16 Camino Sanabrés to Santiago del Compostela
Day 17 Camino Sanabrés - back to Ourense
Day 18 Camino Sanabrés - back in A Gudiña
Day 19 Camino Sanabrés - Mombuey
Day 20 - Camino Sanabrés back in Tábara
Day 21 - Ruta Vía de la Plata - Benavente
Day 22 Ruta Vía de la Plata - Leon
Day 23 Ruta Vía de la Plata - Pola de Lena
Day 24 Off-road on the Ruta Vía de la Plata - to Oviedo
Day 25 Ruta Vía de la Plata - Gijón


  1. John, what size tires did you use for your hybrid route? I am very interested in cycling this route in May 2019. Thank you.

    1. Hi Maria

      I'm going to blog about my bike in the next few days but the wheel tyre set up was 650b wheels with Hutchinson Horizon road plus 47mm tubeless tyres


  2. good post.thank you

  3. Hi John, I have just read both of your Ruta de la Plata journals and I have a number of comments & queries. Would it be possible to correspond by email?

  4. Hello John, I am looking at the Gradient too (I'm in B'ton) - do you have any long-term thoughts on the bike?

    1. Very pleased with it. Flexible bike, has been perfect for me. If you're in Brighton you should pop in and see Mark Reilly, he's a lovely guy. Tell him I sent you!

  5. Very excited that you're publishing these guides! When are they due out? I'm just back from cycling the Norte (having done the Portgues two years ago and the Frances in 2015) and I'm really keen to get my hands on a good cycling guide for the VdlP... There are some bits that the walkers' guides just do not prepare you for!!

    1. Hi Katy

      Not until late 2019 I'm afraid. The publishers have only so much capacity. Your right about the route being mixed, some great bits and some bits not so great. The guide will describe how challenging is leg is and point out the options. Must admit I fancy the Portuguese as my next challenge.


  6. Hi there, Is your guide out? we are going next month and I would love to buy a copy.

  7. Hi John. My husband and I are planning to cycle the Via de la Plata in mid-October. We have cycled the Norte and walked the Camino de Santiago (twice) and the Portugues. This time we have Bike Friday folding bicycles with e-assist. Cycling the Norte with our regular Bike Fridays a couple years ago convinced us that the battery assist would come in handy! I thought I found your blog that showed specifics for cycling along the N630 but can't seem to find it now. Any support you can offer will be greatly appreciated. We anxiously await your latest book! Thank you.

    1. Hi Marilyn

      I cycled the road version in 2017 with my wife along the N630 and the off-road version in 2018 - the link to the road version is as follows

      Unfortunately the books not going to be out until 2020 but feel free to ask any questions and I'll try to help.

      Best wishes


  8. John, I am planning on cycling the VdlP in April 2020. Any chance your book will be published before this?

    1. Hi Marcus

      That is the scheduled publication date - fingers crossed. It will be ready from my end.


  9. Hi John, remember I contacted you last year about riding the Via from North to South; you're still welcome to join us. However circumstances dictate we depart from Santander on 30 September.
    @Craig & Marilyn; as above we shall also be riding the Via so we may pass en route. Are you riding north from Sevilla? BR Richard

    1. Hi Richard. Our plans have us arriving in Madrid on October 16h and from there we will make our way by bus or train to the VDLP with our bicycles. We have until November 6th to ride/travel when we depart from Madrid to head home. (Olympia, Washington USA) Are you riding North to South or from Sevilla? We are not sure which way we'll ride. Depends upon the weather, etc. We are not sure where we'll begin (or end) - Leon, Astorga, on to the Santiago or up to San Sebastian. All choices are wonderful! Would be fun if we did meet up. What is your time frame?

    2. Also, we are riding parallel to the Camino with our road bikes. You?

    3. Hi Craig & Marilyn, three of us (me, brother & nephew) are riding from Santander to Sevilla then on home to Conil; we depart Santander on 30 Sept so we should be well south of Madrid by the 16th Oct. We're going to be a mixed bunch of road, gravel & MTB.

      You could do a nice loop from Madrid, along the Camino de Madrid to Leon, south on the Plata then back to Madrid via the Sierra de Gredos (For whom the bell tolls / Hemingway country) for example but there are plenty of options.

      WhatsApp +447576648107 if you need a status update.

      BR Richard

    4. Hi Richard

      I'm just putting together the photographs for my guide - if your taking a camera I can always do with some more.


  10. Hi Richard

    Would love to have joined you but I'm away in September. Have a great trip and send me some pics.


  11. Craig / Marilyn - email me on 3skinnybikers at gmail dot com