Annapurna Circuit Day 11 Kagbeni

After crossing the Thorang La yesterday we walked down to the bustling little town of Muktinath and shared a tea house with a couple of German parties we had met before. Recovering from such a tough day conversation at dinner was subdued.

The weather in the morning was perfect and walking back up through the town to the monastery the sights we had missed before gradually came into view.  Dhaulagiri to the south west, at over 8100 metres and the 7th highest mountain in the world, looked  amazing, startlingly white with a stream of cloud condensing from the top, while closer still was Niligiri North, a 7000 metre plus peak. As we climbed through the village we could see a completely different landscape to the north, brown almost desert like, the colours like the drier landscapes of Tibet.

Dhaulagiri

Annapurna Circuit Day 10 - The Thorung La Pass

Four o'clock wake up knock, quick pack and then into breakfast. The large French party we were sharing the tea house with were just about to leave and other smaller groups had already gone, Jungba was clearly confident that we could get over the top quickly.

The first bit of news was that Paul had decided that he didn't want to travel.  Nima, the No 2 guide would be coming with us to the High Camp Hostel, about 400 metres up, and then return to take Paul down the valley.

We set off at about 5, it was very cold and, apart from the trickle of head torches climbing their way up the hill, it was pitch black.  The snow on the ground, which was fresh from the previous evening, made walking up the steep slope a lot harder than the day before.

Annapurna Circuit Day 9 Thorung Phedi

Seriously cold, last night it snowed and Paul measured the temperature in his room at minus seven.  It's all very uncomfortable but despite the conditions everyone seems in great spirits and all ready for what could be, with snow on the ground, quite a difficult crossing.

Trudging out of Yak Kharka

Today's walk was a nice one and we were all togged up in all our cold weather gear.  I'm wearing boots, thermal leggings, trousers, thermal top, t-shirt, heavy fleece, 700 down jacket, snood, inner gloves and outer gloves. Today was just about OK but it was a gentle climb, tomorrow it's much steeper, we will be starting earlier and it will be much colder.  I'm definitely learning how gear performs in really cold weather.

Annapurna Circuit Day 8 Yak Kharka

Weather a bit disappointing today, not a disaster but too cloudy to see the tops of the mountains. Just as well that yesterday gave us such wonderful views of the Manang valley. 

Short walk along the trail today, about 4 hours and a climb of a couple of hundred metres up to Yak Khark. After walking underneath a gloomy and slightly intimidating Gangapurna the route turns from west to north west and up the valley towards the Thorung Pass.  The mountains in this valley, so far, are not quite on the same scale as Annapurna 2 and Gangapurna.

Up the valley from Manang

Annapurna Circuit Day 7 - at rest

Everyone on the Annapurna Circuit seems to stop at Manang for a rest or acclimatisation day before pressing on to the Thorang La, the big day, two days. It's a good place to stop, best tea house so far with toilets in the bedroom and a good menu, shops and even places to buy coffee and cake. 

Manang itself is an interesting little town, the original part of town is 800 years old and is built in the traditional style with flat roofs and integral accommodation for animals.  All the snow from the flat roofs has been swept into the narrow alleys  which, because of the amount of recent snow, were almost impassable.

Manang

Annapurna Circuit Day 6 Manang

Best walk of the trip so far, absolutely wonderful.  Great weather, particularly in the morning and huge views, a complete turnaround from yesterday.

It's a very simple walk to describe.  Retracing our steps over the bridge from Lower Pinsang we climbed steadily up the hill, past a lovely little green lake, and then more steeply, zig-zagging over open ground all the way up to Ghyaru. This is our most sustained climb of the trek so far and by the time we got to the top we had climbed over 400 metres. After a tea stop we then walk along a contour path high up on the valley side, stop for lunch at Nawal, before a gentle descent down to Manang.

Lower Pisang

Annapurna Circuit Day 5 Pisang

The stunning weather of yesterday proved to be a false dawn, today was cloudy with occasional flurries of snow and, as the wind got stronger, it got increasingly cold.  Although the deep valley to the west of Chame was spectacular we missed the big views of Annapurna II which we had been looking forward to.

Planting potatoes