Annapurna Circuit Day 14 Ghasa

Today we left the huge flat bottomed,  pebbled filled valley floor behind us and headed away from the road into really remote countryside. After a bright start the weather clouded over,  really disappointing because the walk took us through the gap between Dhaulagiri and Annapurna, the 7th and 10th highest peaks in the world,  and the basis for the claim that the valley between them is the world's deepest.

Early morning views of Dhaulagiri

The trip notes say that the route chosen has taken us off the main trail but in any event the crowds, and all of the familiar faces, seem to have disappeared. A lot of people finish their Annapurna circuit at Jonsom and the route now feels quite. There are still tea houses, but the one we choose for our mid morning break has to open up specially for us, and the place where we stop for lunch in Kunjo is very small, no menu and only Dal Bhat or noodle soup on offer.  None the worse for that.

Annapurna Circuit Day 13 Larjung

The massive flat bottomed valley that had been a feature of the approach to Marpha disappears on the other side of the town and the route takes us away from the road, through a narrow wooded valley, towards the little Buddist refugee camp just outside the town.  It's great weather and the white mountain tops glimpse in through the trees.

The refugee camp seems to be a place where Tibetans stay as they travel between Tibet to India - not a place where people stay.  I may well have got this wrong but either way our arrival generates interest and shawls are spread on the floor, wares displayed and shopping with haggling initiated. It's all good fun and not quite what I had associated with a refugee camp.

Stopped for a tea break at Tukuche, on a roof terrace, with views of Nulgiri. We shared the views with a couple of walkers we have bumping into all the way around the circuit.

More flat bottomed valley

Annapurna Circuit Day 12 Marpha

The schedule now includes a couple of short walking days which the trip notes say are included just in case bad weather stops us climbing over the Thorung La at the first attempt.  

Makes sense but for some people in the group it does create a certain sense that the momentum of the walk has been lost.

Leaving Kagbeni

Annapurna Circuit Day 11 Kagbeni

After crossing the Thorang La yesterday we walked down to the bustling little town of Muktinath and shared a tea house with a couple of German parties we had met before. Recovering from such a tough day conversation at dinner was subdued.

The weather in the morning was perfect and walking back up through the town to the monastery the sights we had missed before gradually came into view.  Dhaulagiri to the south west, at over 8100 metres and the 7th highest mountain in the world, looked  amazing, startlingly white with a stream of cloud condensing from the top, while closer still was Niligiri North, a 7000 metre plus peak. As we climbed through the village we could see a completely different landscape to the north, brown almost desert like, the colours like the drier landscapes of Tibet.

Dhaulagiri

Annapurna Circuit Day 10 - The Thorung La Pass

Four o'clock wake up knock, quick pack and then into breakfast. The large French party we were sharing the tea house with were just about to leave and other smaller groups had already gone, Jungba was clearly confident that we could get over the top quickly.

The first bit of news was that Paul had decided that he didn't want to travel.  Nima, the No 2 guide would be coming with us to the High Camp Hostel, about 400 metres up, and then return to take Paul down the valley.

We set off at about 5, it was very cold and, apart from the trickle of head torches climbing their way up the hill, it was pitch black.  The snow on the ground, which was fresh from the previous evening, made walking up the steep slope a lot harder than the day before.

Annapurna Circuit Day 9 Thorung Phedi

Seriously cold, last night it snowed and Paul measured the temperature in his room at minus seven.  It's all very uncomfortable but despite the conditions everyone seems in great spirits and all ready for what could be, with snow on the ground, quite a difficult crossing.

Trudging out of Yak Kharka

Today's walk was a nice one and we were all togged up in all our cold weather gear.  I'm wearing boots, thermal leggings, trousers, thermal top, t-shirt, heavy fleece, 700 down jacket, snood, inner gloves and outer gloves. Today was just about OK but it was a gentle climb, tomorrow it's much steeper, we will be starting earlier and it will be much colder.  I'm definitely learning how gear performs in really cold weather.

Annapurna Circuit Day 8 Yak Kharka

Weather a bit disappointing today, not a disaster but too cloudy to see the tops of the mountains. Just as well that yesterday gave us such wonderful views of the Manang valley. 

Short walk along the trail today, about 4 hours and a climb of a couple of hundred metres up to Yak Khark. After walking underneath a gloomy and slightly intimidating Gangapurna the route turns from west to north west and up the valley towards the Thorung Pass.  The mountains in this valley, so far, are not quite on the same scale as Annapurna 2 and Gangapurna.

Up the valley from Manang