Mera Peak - Finishing

One of the special things about trekking in Nepal is the sense of community you have with other trekkers.  Because we had come down a day ahead of schedule we had an extra day in Lukla, a Lukla which was filling up with trekkers whose flights had been cancelled by the bad weather.  So we had an extra day to get stressed about our own flight but also an extra day to exchange stories with other walkers in town, most of whom had come down from Everest Base camp. So it was talking and not walking while we waited.

The weather was bad, there were only a couple of flights all day, and if asked to do a risk assessment on the next day's weather and chances of a flight out then it wouldn't be good.  If you miss your slot than you go to the bottom of the list and have to wait for everyone else before your turn comes around.  It could hardly be more stressful.

Mera Peak Day 16 Lukla

Last night Nigel suggested that we walk all the way to Lukla next day rather than stop for another night at Chutanga in tents. This meant another two hours walking, and it was good that the suggestion came from Nigel as he has found the going tougher than everyone else. The proposal didn't get unanimous support, always a challenge to change a plan, but we agreed to talk about it in the morning.

Last morning tea

Mera Peak Day 15 Thuli Kharka

Despite being on the homeward leg today showed that the Mera Peak trip is definitely not over.

To get from Koto to Lukla and the flight to Kathmandu we have to cross the Zatrwa La Pass over the Charpate Himal.  It's a 4,600 metre pass and is covered with the same snow which gave us the storm we experienced at High Camp last Friday.  It's a three day trip.  On the first day out of Kote we climb up to Thuli Kharka and spend another night camping high, at 4,300 at Thuli Kharka.  On the next day we cross the pass and head down to Chutanga for the last night in tents before a short walk the next day into Lukla.

Snowy start at Kote

The weather has been the classic combination of morning sunshine and afternoon cloud.  To be honest I can do without the sun, my face is badly sunburnt and my lips in particular are in a terrible mess.

Mera Peak Day 14 Kote

Today was a short day, late start and a three hour walk back down to Kote where we stayed 8 days ago.  We are now on the final run and conversation is very much turning to home. 

Almost perversely however, and given what we have been through over the last three days, we have a final big climb up nearly 1600 metres, to over 4,600 metres, camping on either side of the pass, before dropping down to Lukla on Wednesday and a flight back to Kathmandu, weather permitting, on Thursday. We are not quite out of the woods yet.

Mera Peak - Day 13 Tangnag

Perfect blue skies and stunning views of what must be leading contender for the best mountain scape in the world.  Jangbu had got us up early, no kitchen porters to prepare breakfast and we were heading down.

Kanchenjunga

Mera Peak - Day 12 Summit Day

So much happened today that I'm still trying to understand what really went on.

Started last night with the tent by tent briefing from Jangbu, no mess tent space on this tiny rocky outcrop in the middle of a glacier. He told us we would be getting woken up at 12.30 am and be leaving around 1.30, and to put on all our clothes because it would be very cold.

We had already been warned that  nature can be savage in these parts when a lump of ice broke away from the glacier sending a large bang around the camp site. It then got dramatically worse. At about 8pm the wind started to blow, really blow, gale force, and I still don't understand how the tents - especially the lofty toilet tent - stayed intact. Later the wind dropped and after a short sleep intermission I lay in my sleeping bag listening and watching the most sustained thunder storm I have ever witnessed. The tent shone orange but even with my eyes shut the pyrotechnics penetrated.  

A broken trail

Mera Peak - Day 11 High Camp

To be honest the trip had started to feel a bit of an ordeal.  I've been away from home for nearly six weeks and haven't been able to make any contact for two. Really missing Christine and the family.  Also it's a small group, all men, and the conversation often struggles to get going. The Annapurna Circuit trip group was just the opposite, you really got to know everyone and at dinner the chat just buzzed.

The tiny dimple is Mera Central