Friday 15th April Benageber to Chelva

Well it was a good job I got lost a couple of times yesterday and didn't attempt to walk all the way to Chelva. It would have been too far and I would have rushed a good walk. Anyway stopping at Benageber worked out really well.

Left at 8 this morning, no one about in any of the 2 bars, so no coffee. Spotted the owner of the supermercado arriving with provisions and persuaded her to open up and sell me a stick of frozen bread and a tomato. I think she might have given me the tomato, could be a developing trend.

For the first time in a couple of weeks it's been a bit cloudy today which was a shame because there were some great views. Without doubt the star of the show was the scenery just below Benageber and crossing the Rio Turia. Really dramatic sandstone gorge, the deepest I have been in so far. Getting down involved a really steep path. Some amazing waterfalls not something you associate with this corner of Spain. Once at the bottom it wasn't long before you had to recover all the altitude you had just lost with a steep climb up the other side.

Rio Turin gorge with some early morning light

Waterfalls down to the Rio Turin

Once on top it was easier, walking through olive groves and almond trees, and after yesterday's excursions I kept a close eye on the GPS track and was in sight of Chelva by one o'clock. The final walk into town was marked by another gorge, but on a smaller scale, including a lovely and well restored old bridge.

                          Puente de la Mozaira 

After really small places for the last two nights Chelva is a metropolis by comparison.  Still has its ancient Arab quarter with a dense and bewildering street pattern.  Stayed at the Hotel La Pasada, very nice, and the manager help sort out my accommodation for tomorrow night in Andilla which was just as well as it turns out there is marathon there and it's very full.

Might wander out later and see if I can get my hair cut, supertramp to supersharp, although of course anything could happen. Just had a very nice lunch with red wine and I'm feeling very relaxed. Christine (my wife) joins me tomorrow and I can't wait to see her.

By the way the GPS clocked me at 20 kilometres today which seems about right so maybe I did 54 yesterday after all.


  1. john
    i have your spare socks and new boots packed and am just waiting for your birthday cake to finish cooking.
    please can we avoid 50k and 2000m of ascent on my first day out there?

  2. Hello,

    Found your site a couple of days ago. Good luck with your trek. We are walking the E4 in stages and will be crossing Switzerland into Austria this summer.

    We couldn't get into the Casa Rural when we walked through Ardilla a couple of years ago so used a taxi and stayed in the hostal La Posa in Villar del Arzobizpo. (If you have a day off in Chelva be sure to go and see the amazing roman aquaduct and tunnels.) Good accomodation in Bejis at the Hostal Tren Pita. Mas de Noguera was full with school parties when we passed through, so continued on to Montanejos which is a good place for a day off. Comfortable Hostal Ruta de Aragon at Villahermosa. Casa Rural at Vistabella but if closed (it was when we were there) then enquire for rooms at Bar Los Arcos.
    Comfortable Hotel La Piqueta at Benasal but Hotel at Ares was closed when we passed through.

    Good walking for the next few days.

  3. Hi David and Carole, thanks for the tips. Think we have a Casa Rural at Andilla but will just have to see.

    Christine and I did the first 8 or 9 days of the high E4 variant last year, there is a note about it somewhere on the blog. It was very tough and would take me too long if I want to get back to the UK in September.

    Once again thanks for advice and interest and best of luck with your walk.