The GR1: Spain’s Sendero Histórico - still with a bed every night

Time flies.  It’s  10 years since I first walked the GR1, the Sendero Histórico, a 53-day walk across northern Spain.  Given everything that has happened since 2013, particularly in the last 3 years, some of the research I did for my first Cicerone guide, might need revisiting.  

The guide: The GR1: Spain’s Sendero Histórico, reflects my preferred style of walking and involves going from place to place and sleeping in a bed at the end of each day. This approach works particularly well in Spain because accommodation is cheap and relatively plentiful. It’s also great fun and although hit and miss, never less than interesting. Whether it’s a bar with rooms above or a luxury hotel in a converted castle, the memories associated with the places you stay can be as sustaining as the scenery you walk through.

If you prefer to sleep in a bed and enjoy someone else’s cooking, finding somewhere to stay can determine the length of each walking day.  Because the GR1 travels through remote countryside, often previously populated but now empty,  finding somewhere to stop for the night can be a challenge and occasionally involves some long days.  When I originally did the research I constructed a 53-day itinerary that allows a walker (defined as someone with a lot of spare time) to walk from one side of Spain to the other, stay in a bed each night, and only have to leave the trail three times.  Not having to mess about with taxis and buses; making a leisurely start and straight onto the trail; finishing the day by walking to your destination, and immediately drinking a well-deserved beer, are one of the many things that makes the GR1 special.

Over the last 8 years, since publication, lots of people (100s not 1000s), have used my guide to help them on their journey across northern Spain and a number have provided feedback.  When opening a GR1 email, I’m always nervous about updates on accommodation because, in certain places, a closure makes things difficult and a lot of closures would threaten the viability of the route for my style of walking.  The key thing to check, therefore, is whether the accommodation listed in the guide is still in business.

Recently, on a wet weekend in March, I worked through the guide to check what’s still there and establish whether you really need to take a tent with you to complete the GR1.  Good News! The GR1 still works for non-campers and despite Covid shutdown and some closures, you can still walk it and stay in a bed each night.  There are changes and, section by section, these are described below.

Some general things first.  There is an important distinction between a casa rural, usually private accommodation in a holiday home and an auberge, hostel or hotel. In Spain, particularly in a non-school holiday period, casa rural owners are often happy to rent a room just for a night, sometimes in an otherwise empty house.  Casa rurals are used in the guide when there isn’t an alternative, as managing access with a private owner is more painful.  Secondly some of the accommodation is seasonal and if you start your hike before April might be closed in places where there isn’t a choice.  Thirdly accommodation sometimes shuts on a Monday - as in many parts of Europe if people work on a Sunday they expect to have the next day off.  These places will sometimes provide a bed but no restaurant.

Section 1 - 6 days from Puerto to Tarna to Reinosa

 

Section 1, crossing the southern flank of the Cantabrian mountains and skirting the Picos de Europa, is one of the most dramatic parts of the whole walk. It’s an all-year-round destination for hikers (expect snow until March) and its attractions have kept all the accommodations open.  This includes the hotel in the tiny village of Salomon which provides the only accommodation at the end of the first day.  In addition, a new hotel has opened at Prioro, the Albergue de Prioro, so walkers no longer have to find a room in a casa rural.  

Section 2 - 7 days from Corconte to Berantevilla

Section 2 introduces the dramatic limestone escarpments and meseta which feature on much of the walk.  While there is more history, evidenced by castle ruins and lovely Romanesque churches, finding somewhere to stay is more challenging than in Section 1.  The main changes are two new hotels at the day 1 destination Pedrosa de Valdeporres,(the Hotel El Rincon and the Hotel Rural la Engaña, (which means not having to stay in the language school) -   and the closure of the Los Perrichicos and the opening of the Hotel El Amparo de Narcisa at Oteo.  Accommodation wise the final two days of the walk are just as difficult as in 2013 with off-route accommodation needed in Mirando de Ebro.

Section 3 - 6 days from Berantevilla to Olite

If I’m honest, this is my least favourite section.  The first 4 days to Los Arcos are excellent, more dramatic limestone ridges, but the last 2 days from Los Arcos to Olite which, despite interesting little towns, cross a boring agricultural landscape. Accommodation is also a little difficult.  The watermill, the only place at Peñacerrada, is still providing accommodation, but the Golf Hotel at Bernedo has closed, so the casa rural listed in the guide are the only places on the route.  If this doesn’t work there is plenty of accommodation a Laguardia about 7kms to the south.  At Santa Cruz de Campezo there is new hostel-style accommodation at the Aterpe Kanpex Hostel and all the other accommodation is as described in the guide.

Section 4 - 5 days Olite to Murillo de Gállego.

Long-distance walking inevitably involves swings and roundabouts.  If Section 3 had its shortcomings these are more than compensated for in Section 4 which somehow combines stunning landscapes with beautiful towns.  Accommodation in a casa rural still has to be found at the hilltop town of Ujué but a new hotel, the Beragu Hotel,  has opened at Gallipienzo Antiguo, another lovely town, almost abandoned but now coming back to life.  This means you can split the 35km walk otherwise needed to get from Ujué to Sos del Rey Catolico creating a 6 rather than a 5-day schedule.  The accommodation options have also improved at Biel, reached on day 4 (or 5 if you have split Day 2) with the new Casa Rural Las Lezas.  There is plenty of accommodation at Murillo de Gállego but it is seasonal and a lot of hikers suggest going a little further and staying at the atmospheric Refugio de Riglos named after the famous red limestone cliffs.

Section 5 - 9 days Murillo de Gállego to Graus

If Section 3 was my least favourite, then Section 5 definitely comes out on top.  Another remote section with fabulous scenery it adds the additional feature of a series of abandoned villages whose population seems to have cleared out overnight sometime in the 1960s. In planning a trip, the key thing to remember is that at least some of the accommodation is seasonal and somewhere to stay all the way through before April could be difficult.  Specific changes are: the closure of the Albergue A Gargale in Bolea in Bolea, the day 2 destination, so you have to stay at the restaurant, the Casa Rufino (or the pilgrim hostel);  the closure of the Hostal Migalon at Arguis on Day 3, so you now need to stay at the seasonal Hotel El Capricho, just down the road and off the route; and the closure of the UGT centre at Ligüerre de Cinca to overnight visitors with Casa A Chaminera (just down the road) the best alternative.

For an excellent and recent trip report on this section of the GR1 please follow the link to Joost's website

Section 6 - 9 days Graus to Gironella

Section 6 again combines remoteness with towering limestone cliffs, dry limestone plateaus and narrow limestone gorges.  Apart from one hotel at Sant Lorenc de Morunys (a town that has three other hotels) all the accommodation identified in the guide is still open for business.  This includes the lonely Masia Messanes reached on day 5 - it's lovely but I can’t understand how it survives, so please check.   Also the Masia el Pujol reached on Day 9 is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.

Section 7 - 10 days Gironella to the Coast

Section 7 includes three different landscapes: the first is the tailend of limestone landscape of the previous three stages; the second, after Ripoli,  a landscape dominated by the pinnacles of long-extinct volcanoes; and, the third, after Banyoles, involving just two days of walking, the coastal plain.  The stage includes some really interesting historic towns with Besalu competing with Sos del Rey Catolico for the prize of the most stunning town on the route.  In terms of accommodation the Fonda Alpens reached on Day 2 has closed and if you can't get into a casa rurals in the village try the Casa de Portavela further along (although the website says a minimum of 2 nights) or organise a taxi for some of the trip to Ripoli.  At Sant Joan de les Abadesses a new hotel has opened, the Hotelet de St. Joan, providing a welcome alternative to the youth hostel.  At Orriels the very swanky hotel has closed so consider heading south for 3km to Hostal Can Maret (access could involve bushwalking!) or sticking to the trail for another 7km to Camallera and staying at the Pensio L’Avi Pep.

Many thanks to Daniel Harris who walked part of the GR1 in 2022 - the photographs in the blog are his

For a recent GR1 trip report please go to Joost's website

Hiking through Castellón

If you're a walker like me who is looking a challenge, somewhere different and not yet 'fashionable', and a route that takes you through great scenery to special places to sleep at the end of each day's hike than my suggested itinerary for Castellón should be interesting.  It combines remote walking (not hard in Spain) along ancient but largely abandoned footpaths with visits to a series of stunning hilltop towns. It's accessible from the UK and elsewhere (fly into Valencia or Barcelona) and a hike can be combined with visits to the wonderful cities of Tarragona and Valencia. It's easy to self-organise and the accommodation and food are excellent, interesting and great value.

Circular Walks in the Vall de Boí

Walking in the Vall de Boí is really well organised and most people will find enough to keep busy for 2/3 days within the confines of the valley itself.  Visiting the Romanesque churches provides a series of mini objectives and with bars and restaurants in all the villages there are also plenty of places to stop and relax.

The paths themselves are wonderful. In nearly all cases, they are based on the original inter settlement routes and are as old as the villages themselves.  Designed for pack horses/ponies as well as pack people they are perfectly graded and walking along them is a real pleasure.

Depending on how much time you spend in the churches (they are not that big) you can get around the valley in 9/10 hours. It's a challenge, but not quite as mad as it sounds as the paths are so easy and such a pleasure stopping is a problem.

Day 26 GR1 to Roda de Isabena

Roda de Isabena isn't on the GR1 Sendero Historico so today was a Juan Holgado variant and well worth it too. The little hill top town hosts one of the first Romanesque cathedrals in Spain and given that the theme of this trip seems to be stunning hill top towns it would be a crime to miss it. We will be back on the straight and narrow tomorrow.

Roda de Isabena

It rained heavily all night but the weather this morning was bright and fresh, Christine's run of good continues but the odds look stacked against her for tomorrow. We left Graus via a taxi and started our walk from the little village of El Sofer. The views were wonderful with fresh snow on the mountains in the distance.

Dozens of griffons

Perhaps the dominant feature was a beautiful set of red cliffs to the north west - the Morrón de Güell. As we approached them the sky literally filled with griffon vultures - dozens of them swirling above our heads- Spain really is the vulture capital of Europe.

Ermita de la Virgen de las Rocas

The first objective for the walk was the little church, the Ermita de la Virgen de las Rocas set high up under the lee of the cliffs. We dumped our bags under some bushes and for a time it looked like we were going to share our trip with a group of elderly Catalans who had come up the track in cars, but the muddy trail put them off. Like the church at Grustán yesterday the Ermita was built on the border between Moorish and non-Moorish Spain with the original parts of the structure dating back to the 10th Century. Fantastic views in all directions and well worth the climb.

Morrón de Güell

After picking up our bags, which somehow had got heavier, we set off towards Roda de Isabena. Interesting route which involved crossing a series of gullies apparently carved out of an ancient river delta formed from sediments eroded from the Pyrenees. Very interesting to amateur pontificating geologists like Christine and me. The views back to the Morrón de Güell were amazing.

Cloisters to the catherdral

The deepest gully was the one immediately in front of Roda de Isabena - nice walk down but a tough walk up, particularly after we lost the trail and had to do a bit of scrambling. Christine was determined to get there as quickly as she could preferring a late lunch to a late dinner and for once she didn't slow down in the afternoon.

Staying at the Hospederia, which I think is owned by the Aragon government, very nice, and the hotel restaurant turned out to be part of the cathedral. Lovely food.

Had a trip round the cathedral later in the afternoon, very interesting. We heard about Eric the Belgium who about 20 years or so ago stole the cathedral's most precious piece of furniture, a ninth century boxwood chair, and in the process broke it into small bits. Eric is a famous Belgium in these parts.

Streets in Roda de Isabena

After the Cathedral tour, Juan tried to persuade us to walk down the hill to look at an ancient bridge. We declined saying we could imagine what it looked like. Sorry Juan but after a lunch like that there is only so much sight seeing you can do.

If you want to see where we went today on a map then please go to the following link

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Day 15 GR1 to Ujue

Short 17 kilometre walk today distinguished more by the destination than the journey.

Sunny weather, clear blue skies, but still cold.

Leaving Olite

Stage 4 - The GR7 and E4 through Valencia

The 600 kilometres through the region of Valencia (which includes the provinces of Valencia, Castellon and Alicante) involved some of the best and some of the worst experiences of the whole trip.  Although not a particularly fashionable walking area some of it, particularly the northern part, deserves to be much better known.

It took me 21 days to walk through Valencia, starting on the 3rd and finishing on the 24th of April.  Walking up in the mountains, on a trail that ran parallel with the coast,  I experienced the lows of multiple bee stings, the adventure of an all night walk, and the highs of a series of specatular Castellon towns.  The weather was also mixed - really hot at the beginning and extremely wet at the end.  Not quite sure what I was expecting in terms of scenery but I was surprised by how good much of it was -  more of those dramatic gorges I got a taste for in Murcia.

Had an accurate GPS trail courtesy of Bornem and my way was generally not a problem.  Had found high level description on the route, in the form of a PDF, on the Valencian Tourist Board site and this gave me a stage breakdown for the walk and some timings.

The first day, from Pinosa to Elba, wasn't much fun.  A continuation of the fairly dull walking experienced since leaving Cieza.  If you are going to walk 5,000 kilometres you can't expect scenic fireworks everyday!  Elba was not a town I would choose as a destination for a weekend break - the hotel we had booked had closed down so others clearly shared the same view.

The next day was better and the scenery varied from good to excellent for the rest of the walk in Valencia.  No co-incidence I guess, as for the first time for several days the route though the Sierra de Castalla was again at around 1000 metres.  Fairly short walk, 22 kilometres to the pretty little town of Castalla (surrounded by large amounts of new housing development) with, appropriately, a hill top castle.  Stayed in the new and very pleasant Don Jose hotel.

Castalla

Excellent walk to the wonderful town of Alcoi, worth going there just for its amazing street lights.  Great walk through a gorge, up to the top of Menejador and through the Natural Park of Font Roja.  Beautiful and unique ancient woodlands including some trees which only exist in this part of Spain.  Lots of places to stay in Alcoi.

Montcabrer

Excellent 27 kilometre walk next day to the classic Spanish hill top town at Bocairent (just slightly of the trail).   The first third was the best with a walk through an increasingly dramatic gorge followed by a steady climb to the top of Montcabrer, wonderful limestone countryside with huge views.  It was then into the Sierra Mariola Natural Park and onto Bocairent where I stayed at the very nice Casa Rural Baretta.

Bocairent

The walk to Vallada was not quite as dramatic and nor is Vallada such a nice town as Bocairent, but still a good walk often on Moorish mule tracks.  Stayed in the Giners tourist apartments which were fine.

After Vallada and for the next few days the route starts to get difficult in terms of accommodation.

Borranc de Bocquilla

From Vallada, and after crossing the valley and the Rio Canyoles, you go through a wonderful gorge (the Borranc de Bocquilla) which goes on for mile after mile, a real surprise and a great walk.  You eventually climb out the gorge at El Chorrillo carrying on over the heath, drop down into a valley and back up again to Casa de Benali.  There is a Casa Rural there which might do accommodation later in the season but not in April and I had to get a 20 kilometre taxi to and from Enguera - a nice town but a long way off the track.

Next day is also difficult with no accommodation on the route until you get to Cortes de Pallas (55 kilometres from Casa de Benali).  The first metalled road to hit the route is about five kilometres after Caroche and this is the logical place to get a taxi to pick you up.  This was my bee sting day and other things also went wrong.  If you can get a taxi than the nearest hotel is in a town called Ayora and I afraid the hotel there is very poor and on Saturday the disco underneath went on all night.

If you have made it to and from Ayora than the next day to Cortes de Pallas is relatively straightforward, a good walk with nice accommodation at the end of it.  You are entering a really important area in Spain for energy generation, huge reservoirs and nuclear power stations, but the scenery is great, with one dramatic valley meeting another one. Stayed at the Hostal Casa Fortunata in Cortes de Pallas.

Towards Cortes de Pallas

Another difficult day for accommodation -  things went completely wrong as far as my schedule was concerned.  Had expected to stay at Milares but the accommodation didn't exist and meant an unanticipated night out of doors.  Avoiding my fate would involve either a 50 kilometre walk all the way through to El Rebollar and then a taxi or train to Requena or a short walk to Venta Gaeta and a taxi back Cortes de Pallas with a return to the same point the following day.  The lack of accommodation is a shame  because it's good walking, particularly nice stretch north of Venta Gaeta and the walk around the Pico del Mono.  Requena by the way is a large pleasant town with plenty of accommodation, about 10 kilometres to the west of the route.

Next day's walk to Chera (which is about 3 kilometres of the route) was not without incident either.  The route went through a large hunting estate and the management have decided to block it and cover the waymarks.  Without an alternative I climbed the fence and followed the route.  Chera has a hostal which was closed when I was there but there rooms above a local bar.

38 kilometres to Benageber but my navigational cock-ups and some confused waymarking just outside Chera added to the distance.  Continuing to cross empty countryside, usually along forest trails, through dry Mediterranean woodland (Aleppo Pine and Holm Oak) with a thick undergrowth of cistus and rosemary shrubs.  Savage if you need to go off the trail and cut through it.  The countryside is absolutely empty although there were odd bits of cultivated land with locals coming up from the village and working the land in near traditional ways.  Nice apartments to hire on a nightly basis in the bar in the small village of Benageber.

Benageber was the start of one of a really wonderful stretch of walking - comparable to anything in Andalucia - great countryside and lovely towns/villages.

Down to the Rio Turin

The first day in this purple patch involved a short walk to Chelva.  Around 5 kilometres east of Benageber you hit an absolutely amazing gorge, huge cliffs, with the Rio Turin running through the bottom.  You go almost straight down one side of the gorge and almost straight up the other - about 300 metres from the top to the bottom.  Dramatic scenery.  After climbing out the gorge, it's a pleasant upland walk, through the tiny village of Bercuta, along a forest trail and then down to the lovely ancient town of Chelva (with its old Arab quarter) where I stayed at the Hotel La Pasada.

Less fireworks the next day but still a nice walk and the twin villages of Andilla and La Pobletta were really lovely.  Stayed in a smashing casa rural attached to the restaurant opposite the church.  Really friendly and helpful.

Andilla

Short but lovely walk to Bejis next day, some great opportunities for outdoor swimming along the way and a couple of lovely villages to wander around (Arteas de Arriba and Arteas de Abajo).  The first part of the 23 kilometre walk you share with the GR 10 and I managed follow it instead of the GR7 before working out my mistake.  Bejis is in the province of Castellon (you have left the province of Valencia but you are still in the region of Valencia) and is one of a series of stunning hill top towns which now start to come thick and fast.  Stayed at the friendly and authentic Hostal Restuarant El Pita.

Bejis

My GPS route was a bid dodgy on this stretch and this, combined with poor waymarking, meant that I kept missing the route, frustrating on a hot day.  Still it was a good walk and the little town of Montan was a real reward at the day's end.  Stayed at Hostal Pilar, authentic, cheap and great fun.

Really short walk to Montanejos but spectacular.  The main feature is the Barranco de la Maimona, another dramatic gorge and a favorite venue for climbers and wild water swimmers alike.  The only bit of the walk in Spain where a head for heights was needed.  Montanejos itself is lovely, an ancient centre and a spa town with lots of places to stay.   Stayed in the Casa Palacios, a nice hotel built around a Moorish tower next to the church.

Barranco de la Maimona

After what was almost a rest day I got back into the saddle with a walk to Villermosa del Rio.  The first half  was great, through woodland covering recently abandoned terraces, down a valley and up to the lovely old village of La Artejuela and then onto the small town of San Vicente de Piedrahita.  After that the walk was dissappointing, a lot of road or near road walking almost until Villermosa del Rio where the scenary, with Penyagolosa (1815 metres) as a backdrop was once again spectacular.  Another lovely old town and Hostal Ruta Aragon another authentic hotel.

Next day was a special stretch of walking spoilt, when I was there, by bad weather. I really want to go back and do it again.  You go up a lovely long gorge (lots of wild life), past abandoned villages, high along the side of a cliff, past the old monastery of Sant Joan de Penyalagosa, onto a weird upland plain, before some more rugged country on your approach to Vistabella de Maestrazgo.  The rain was pouring down and I missed Penyagolosa but Vistabella de Maestrazgo was a great place to hide out in, another wonderful Spanish mountain town.

Leaving Vistabella de Maestrazgo           

The great walking continued next day (despite mixed weather).  Initially it's more high flat walking across yesterday's upland plain before heading down a long valley past more abandoned villages down to the dry Rio Manleon (dry when we were there).  It's then a steep walk up to Culla. where I think there is accommodation, but I stayed in the lovely little town of Benasal at the Hotel la Piqueta.

Benasal

Two stunning hill top towns in one day, Ares de Maestre and Morella, plus some great walking often along some remarkable ancient and really well preserved caminos. Accommodation at both places and the scenery and stopovers really justify going at a slower pace (particularly if you get better weather than I did).  Morella is the number one hill top town in these parts with a lot of tourists.

Ares de Maestre

So the last day in Valencia and the province of Castellon.  The GR7 continues north but the E4 heads down into Catalonia and the province of Tarragona.  Definitely didn't end with a wimper though and the high quality trail continued through to El Boixar.  Leaving Morella you have a bit of road walking to contend with but after that it's a steady climb up over a pass (great views back), along a ridge and down to Vallibona (lunch stop opportunity) before climbing up again to El Boixar where you leave Castellon. There is a casa rural in El Boixar or, if your staying on the GR7 a refuge a bit further along.  I went down the E4 into Moli L'Abad (which was much too far).

For a day by day, real time account of the walk go to the following walk diary entries:

3rd April Pinosa to Elba
April 4th Elda to Castalla
5th April Castalla to Alcoi
6th April Alcoi to Bocairent
7th April Bocairent to Vallada
8th April Vallada to Casa Benali
April 9th Casa Benali to Casa de Callado
April 10th Casa de Callado to Cortes de Pallas
April 11th and 12th Cortes de Pallas to Requena
April 13th Requena to Chera
April 14th Chera to Benageber
April 15th Benageber to Chelva
April 16th Chelva to Andilla
April 17th Andilla to Bejis
April 18th Bejis to Montan
April 19th Montan to Montanejos
April 20th Montanejos to Villahermosa del Rio
April 21st Villahermosa del Rio to Vistabella de Maestrazgo
April 22nd Vistabella de Maestrazgo to Benasal
April 23rd Benasal to Morella
April 24th Morella to Moli l'Abad

Stage 3 - The GR7 through Murcia

After 26 days walking through Andalucia I had belatedly started to work out just how long the E4 was.  The euphoria which had driven me along for the first few weeks was starting to drain away and I was looking for smaller tangible milestones to sustain me.  One step at a time didn't quite cut it but ticking off another Spanish province would help and fortunately Murcia was a small one.

Less fashionable as a walking destination than Andalucia, Murcia still looked interesting.  Arguably it has an even stronger historical legacy.  It was an important part of the Carthagenian empire (Categena on the coast is still a major port), a wealthy part of the Roman empire and for a time an independent taifi (kingdom) within the Arab world.   The northern part of Murcia, where the E4/G7 route crosses the region, contains a number places of particular significance to Catholics with Caravaca de la Cruz designated as one of the five most important places in the catholic world. 

Unlike the GR7 in Andalucia there is no English language guide for the GR7 in Murcia so I was now relying on my own research efforts (something I would have to do for the rest of the E4).  My key piece of information was a GPS route from Wikiloc published by a cyclist.   As a matter of interest "Bornem", whose route I was to use for the rest of the GR7, has now completed the walk through Murcia and the route is now available via his website on Wikiloc.

The route through Murcia is about 200 kilometres long.  There is a variant to the GR7 which takes you to the south side of the Sierra de Moratalla mountain range to Caravaca de la Cruz, I stuck with the main route.

GR7 through Murcia

The first challenge was to get to Canada de la Cruz, until I got there I didn't have a GPS route.   The route is not clear and a large hunting estate just outside Puebla de Don Fadrique acts as a barrier.  Essentially went cross country (which involved climbing over fences) and, without the aid of a route, got horribly lost.  As often happened my luck eventually turned and signs suddenly reappeared just a few miles from the village.  Shame about the route way marking because it's nice countryside.  There is some casa rurale accommodation at Canada de la Cruz but it not available when I was there and the cheapest option was a return taxi trip to Puebla de Don Fadrique.

Next day to El Sabinar was excellent.  The route takes you up and then along a valley between the Sierra de Taibilla to the north and the Sierra de Mortella to south, dropping into a gorge lined with rocks in stunning colours and then into wild windy upland plain - huge views.  I think there is a pension in El Sabinar, a tiny village, but I stayed just down the road in the wonderful boutique hotel at Casa Pernias.

View across the plain from El Sabinar

Lavender fields on the way into the Rio Alharaba gorge

The walk to Moratalla was another good one.  Starting in the high level plain from yesterday, you go past a huge reservoir near the small village at la Risca then dive down another dramatic gorge, with more colourful cliffs, with the Rio Alharaba at the bottom.  When I went through it new growth on the pine trees gave everything a clean fresh look.  Moratalla is an interesting town, a bit shabby, but with a lovely historic centre.  There is a hotel on the outskirts but I chose to stay in a cheap and cheerful town centre pension.

Spring growth on the trees in the Rio Alharaba gorge

Another short easy day mainly across an agricultural plain to the lovely town of Calasparra.  Calasparra is the home of a particular type of paella rice and the town has its own rice trail and museum.  Compared to Moratalla it had a prosperous feel but with a similar historic centre.  I stayed in the Hospederia Rural Constiticion, excellent and right in the middle of town.

Looking back to Moratalla

Next day's walk is excellent taking you along an east west ridge with wide plains to the north and south.  To the north runs the Segura river which I guess provides the water for the rice which makes the area famous.  You never get to climb to top of the ridge but contour along its side.  Half way along you cross the dam holding the water back at the Alfonso X111 reservoir before going around the Sierra del Almarchion the shape of which is particularly dramatic.  The Segura river flows around the ancient town of Cieza which surprisingly doesn't have any accommodation.  I stayed at La Linda Tapada which was lovely but a bit a trek out of town - the owner will pick you up on request.

Sierra del Almarchion

There is no accommodation on the next stretch of the walk and it's not that pleasant either.  A long stretch through the industrial suburbs to the north of Cieza, then through some dry scrub land and then huge fruit tree estates before hitting the motorway at Venta Roman.  I got a lift back to La Linda Tapada and staying there two nights.

The last day in Murcia is a bit better, the trail is good following an ancient camino across wide open and  empty spaces and if you like big skies it's a nice walk.  You cross the boundary into the region of Valencia just before you get to Pinosa, a small village with a big expat population and which has been speculatively over developed.

If you want to know what it felt like on a daily basis than have a look at the walk diary

Canada de la Cruz to El Sabinar
El Sabinar to Moratalla
Moratalla to Calasparra
Calasparra to Cieza
Cieza to Venta Roman
Venta Roman to Pinosa

Stage 2 Villanueva de Cauche to Puebla de Don Fadrique

From Villanueva de Cauche you have a northern and a southern option for the GR7/E4.  I chose the northern option, which is generally described as the less developed route, because, and without a lot of evidence, I thought there might be snow on the southern route in March.  I now know better and could definitely have walked either route.

In total my Stage 2 is 443 kilometres long, involves around 112 hours walking, and goes from Villanueva del Rosario through the Malaga and Jaen provinces and joins up with the southern option at Puebla de Don Fadrique where both options join before heading into Murcia.

A sea of olive trees

There are a lot of olive trees along this part of the walk.  Spain is the world's largest producer of olive oil and this part of Andalucia (Jaen in particular) is where much of it happens.  To be honest I got a bit fed up with olive trees.

Day one was mixed arable, not yet 100 per cent olive trees, and while it wasn't brilliant walking the trail was nearly all off-road.  I stayed at the wonderful Hotel Rural Paloma which is just off the route and couple of kilometres before you get to Villanueva de Tapia (near where the route crosses the main road) - don't miss it!

The next day, a short 20 kilometre walk but now 100 per cent olives.  Pleasant open countryside but olives as far as the eye can see. Villanueva de Algaidas, the day's destination looked a pretty dull town, although it was pouring with rain when I arrived.  The Hotel Algaidas is at the southern end of the high street.

After the rain the walk from Villanueva de Algaidas to Rute was tricky and sticky (with argillaceous mud sticky to everything).  Streams which needed to be crossed were in full flood and the route was at times very difficult to follow.  This was a shame because, despite the olive trees, this is pretty countryside with the route taking you through the lovely villages of Cuevas Bajas and Vadofresno.  Rute the final destination is also interesting, a centre for the production of anis, the whole town seemed to smell just slightly from the drink.  I stayed at the Hotel el Mirador which was OK but lacked any Spanish soul.

Spanish breakfast at Hostal Rafi

Nice walk to the lovely town of Priego de Cordoba the route takes you along two linked valleys.  Hard to find the route leaving Rute but important that you do as the route takes high up the side of the first valley and away from the road.  In the second valley it's along a quiet road still annoying because there is a lovely green lane running parallel to it nearly all the way.  Preigo de Cordoba is a lovely town with some amazing Rococo churches.  Stayed at the Hostal Rafi, a really nice hotel with a good restaurant.

Priego de Cordoba

After a 23 kilometre walk to Priego de Cordoba I chose to do a much longer, 35 kilometre walk to Alacala la Real.  Could have had a short day by stopping at Almedinilla but to be honest the walking was not that good so not that much to hold you back.  Quiet a lot of road walking although at times I may have walked along the road rather than the path because I missed the route.

Alcala la Real

Stopped for half a day in Alcala la Real staying at the Hotel Torrepalma.  Impressive castle towering over the town and from the top you can see the line of watch towers that marked an old border with the Moors.  A short afternoon stroll took me through the Alcala la Real suburbs to Frailes with accommodation at a wonderful bar in the middle of the village, really friendly, enormous portions of food and great fun.

Frailes to Carchelejo is a big but wonderful walk, 35 kilometres and 1300 metres of ascent.  Climbing steadily up from Frailes to the little village of Los Rosales your soon out of olive country and into open moorland where the agriculture is based on sheep.  Climbing up over a ridge with brillant views to the north you then into a empty and seemingly never ending valley before, after several hours, climbing up again over a ridge, past some amazing wind blown rock, with brilliant views of the Quiebrajano Reservoir, before getting onto moorland again and heading down to Carchelejo.  We stayed at the Mezquita de Magina Rural Apartments, whatever you do don't be tempted to walk onto the Hotel-Restuarant Oasis, its miles away.

GR7 above Frailes

Couldn't find anywhere to stay at Cambil, the walk for the next day, but the owner of the Mezquita in Carchelejo was happy to act as taxi driver.  Easy walk to Cambil, a very pleasant little town, although you do have to go underneath a motorway.  Recent comments on the blog suggest that the route may have got washed away in places so it might be necessary to make some local enquiries, as it was, even when we were there, the river along the valley looked a bit treacherous.

After a slightly dull walk to Cambil, the walk to Torres next day was much better.  Again you get to climb up out of the olive trees, this time into the Sierra Magina Natural Park, over a pass a 1600 metres with some amazing views back to the Sierra Nevadas, and then a long meandering walk down through trees to Torres.  A good walk.  Stayed at the Hotel-Restaurante Jurinea which was excellent.

Albanchez de Ubeda with castle above

The walk to Jodar is a good one going through some nice countryside and visiting the lovely towns of Albanchez de Ubeda and Bedmar both of which are stop-over options.  Jodar is an "interesting" place, nice town centre but the rest of the place feels poor and slightly oppressive.  There are two hotels and we probably stayed at the wrong one - would try the Hotel los Molinos which is much better positioned than the Hotel Cuidad de Jodar.

Would give the walk to Quesada a miss unless you're desperate to do the whole of the GR7/E4.  A lot of road walking through boring olive tree country.  Gets better from Hornos de Peal to Quesada and Quesada is a lovely village with good accommodation options.  We stayed at the excellent Hotel Sierra de Quesada.

Limestone cliffs in the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y las Villas Natural Park

After Quesada you enter the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y las Villas Natural Park, a magical place full of wild life but with a total absence of people when I went there in March.  This was one of the best parts of the whole E4 as far as I was concerned and as well as deer,  huge numbers of birds of prey and vultures, I got to see my first wild boar and either a wild cat or a lynx.  Definitely want to go back there.

You cross into the Park somewhere between Quesada and Cazorla after you have climbed up along a forest trail.  The scenery changes quickly with huge limestone cliffs looking into the park and huge views across the plain looking out.  Along the way you pass ancient churches and castles before getting to Cazorla which itself is an absolute gem of a town.  We stayed at the Hotel Guadalquivir which was a success.

Sticking with the route there is no accommodation on the route into the park so I walked to and from Vadillo de Castril and the hotel gave me a lift back there the following day.  I'm sure there are better options if your not a GR7/E4 purist.  The paths through the park were excellent, a combination of paved mule trails and more recent forest trails.

It was on the second day into the park that the wild life started to reveal itself in numbers.  Usually walking high up, contouring around valleys, you're often looking down at the hovering Griffon vultures and birds of prey.  It was on the second day I saw my family of wild boar.

I stayed in an apartment in Cotos Rios, a small village on the edge of the park, although I'm sure the Hotel la Hortizuela is close by but on the road on the other side of the river from the trail.

Sheep country around Pontones

Although you're out of the park the quality of walking is more than sustained next day on the trip to Pontones.  It was pretty wild when I did it with snow falling going over the pass.  It was at this point I saw what was either a Lynx or a Wild Cat.  Pontones itself is very much a mountain town, very remote and in an area where making a living looks especially hard.  The Hotel Restaurant Ruta del Segura was a authentic, old fashioned good fun place to stay.

Last decent day's walking on the northern variant of the GR7, a walk across dry open limestone countryside followed by a long descent down a valley to Santiago de la Espada.  Stayed at another mountain hotel, the Hotel San Francisco.

Although I walked to Puebla de Don Fadrique there was little pleasure in it.  Mostly along a sometimes busy road and a long way - would definitely recommend catching the bus.  The Hotel Puerta de Andalucia is a good place to spend a last day in Andalucia (or a first day if you're walking the other way).

If you want to know what the walk felt like on a daily basis then have a look at the walk diary.

Villanueva de Rosario to Villanueva de Tapia
Villanueva de Tapia to Villanueva de Algaidas 
Villanueva de Algaidas to Rute
Rute to Priego de Cordoba 
Priego de Cordoba to Alcala la Real 
Alcala la Real to Frailes
Frailes to Carchelejo 
Carchelejo to Cambils
Cambil to Torres 
Torres to Jodar 
Jodar to Quesada 
Quesada to Cazorla 
Cazorla to Vadillo de Castril 
Vadillo de Castril to Cotos-Rios 
Cotos-Rios to Pontones 
Pontones to Santiago de la Espada
Santiago de la Espada to Puebla de Don Fadrique