Posada de los Arrieros to Granada

We did feel that it was a bit of a cheat getting the taxi from Mairena to Posada de los Arrieros and it also meant that we missed out of what is supposed to be a lovely gorge walk just north of Bayarcal.  On the other hand the weather was definitely on the turn and getting to La Calahorra early meant we could spend the night in Granada and enjoy a stress free trip to Malaga and back to London.  The hotel at Pasada de los Arrieros was also excellent and the generator breaking down half way through dinner added to the remote in the mountains feeling.

Hotel at Posada de los Arrieros

It was cold in the morning, over 1600 metres high and a clear sky was enough to produce a frost on the ground, the first one on this trip.  Still the climb up to the pass was a nice steady and easy climb and we soon warmed up.

Early morning sun below Puerto La Ragua

Just over the 2000 metre pass the weather really turned and short shower, with a bit of hail, turned out to be a harbinger of worse things to come.  Got some final views down the mountain to Ferreira and, on the other side of a wide flat valley bottom, to Charches, which is at the foot of the Sierra de Baza, before the clouds finally dropped.   To be honest the walk down the mountain wasn't that pleasant.  Firstly we following a fire break down along a ridge and then an old, overgrown and badly eroded path along the side of a stream.  About two kilometres from Ferriera heavy rain started to fall and we dived into the first bar we saw once we got into the town.

The weekly bull fighting update was on the television, a programme we had endured a week ago in Arenas del Rey, but the food here much better.  Between us we had six lots of tapas (hot roast pork on toasted bread), six glasses of local wine and three expressos all for 12 euros 50.  Excellent value.

The rain had stopped by the time we left for bar and fortified with food and drink, and celebrating the end of the walk we were rewarded with great views of both La Calahorra and its amazing hill top castle and the Sierra Nevada.  The rain below had fallen as snow above and when the sun broke through the clouds you could clearly see the white tops of the mountains, the first snow of the year.

Fresh Snow on the Sierra Nevada

La Calahorra

Got to Granada by 8 on the excellent Alsa bus. Have been there before but just to see, briefly the Alhambra and the Cathedral.  This time we got to wander around the city centre streets in the evening and eat one final Spanish meal, it really is a lovely place and an excellent way to round of the trip.

Berchules to Posada de Los Arrieros

Left our hotel at dawn to avoid the rush with a party of Germans at breakfast and walked through a silent Berchules.  Good news,  a tiny bar was open, full of local men having their constitutional brandy, but we made do were with coffee and cake.

Climbing over the dam

We set off down the hillside into a gorge, passing a gaggle of barking dogs. Got to the bottom to find no trail and no way marks. Followed Juan up the valley bottom we had to climb over a dam, on the other side of which we found a surprised family of mountain goats who shot up the hillside. Eventually the found the right path, an ancient paved path which climbed back up the side of the valley opposite to Berchules.

Up the valley from Berchules

Looking back to the other side we saw the path we should have taken, just behind the gaggle of barking dogs, and renewed barks signalled the arrival of the party of Germans at the same point. They went down the hill making the same mistake as us, although one late German went in the right direction. Surprisingly poor group discipline soon had the party in three parts, one person going in the right direction, one halfway down the hill and eight marching off in the wrong direction. Eventually the eight returned, joined the one left in the middle but they missed the path again and returned to the village. We spent the rest of the day wondering if they would ever see their colleague who actually found the right path again.

It then started to rain and for the first time we had to get our waterproofs out. Pressing on to Mecina Bombaron we stopped for another coffee and had Jamon on Toast which Juan proclaimed the best he had had in southern Spain.

Walking down the valley through the tiny hamlet of Golco over the next ridge to Montenegro we stopped at the site of the last stand by a group of Moors attempting to resist the conquest by the Roman Catholics. A lovely new house stood near the spot, a quirky Spanish cross between Gaudi and Salvador Dali.

House at Golco

On into the lovely town of Yegen and past the home of the famous British writer and lover of all things Andalucian, Gerald Brenan.

5 kilometres later in the village of Valor, Juan insists that we stop in a bar to try the local delicacy of partridge pate. Unfortunately the bar he wanted to visit was shut but we found another one enlivened by the presence of some 50 huntsmen just down from the mountain (apparently having shot 5 wild boar). Three glasses each of rosada, tapas, a racione of grandmother's croquets, an Andalucian sardine and fish dumpling stew followed by cheese, honey and walnuts, all wrapped up with a local liqueur to completely refuel us. The bar was a brilliant place to be on a wet autumn afternoon.

Final stretch was a 6 kilometre walk to Mairena via Nechite. The light was fading and although we had not had any sun all day, for the first time on this trip to Spain, this sort of weather has made a nice change.

We decided to get a taxi from Mairena to Posada de Los Arriernos as this means we can get to La Calahorra in time to get to Granada tomorrow night. It's also a really nice hotel, a beautifully restored stone and wood construction with warm comfy rooms and good food.

Trevelez to Berchules

Seven days of walking and seven days of perfect weather - after the dodgy weather I had walking the E4 this summer I can hardly believe my luck. Another great day's walking although slightly longer than anticipated and, shock horror, with Juan in charge it's still possible to go the wrong way.

After the threatening clouds of yesterday afternoon the morning sun came up again exactly to order and we were soon marching through Trevelez and well ready for the climb up the side of the valley to the south and east of the town. In the shade of the mountain it was a lovely walk, up the through abandoned terraces and ancient farmsteads. Interesting to see how, high on the hill, the old farmstead was surrounded by sweet chestnuts which were such an important source of food for man and pig alike.

Travelez

John & Juan

The views back to Trevelez were just brilliant but the promised view of Mulhacen, the highest mountain in Spain, was a long time coming and it wasn't until we got to the highest point on the path, about 1750 metres, that we finally got to see it.

The gentle descent on the other side towards Juviles was across a huge expanse of open moorland. Wonderful views even if the humidity in the air made things just a little hazy.

Above Juviles

After the little town of Juviles we dropped into a craggy gorge on the way to Timar. Half way along, a particular crag projects out into the gorge dropping vertically several hundred feet. In the interests of dramatic photography I tried to persuade Christine and Juan to stand on the edge but they claimed it was too windy. The photo below shows the two of them as tiny people on top of a rock.

In the gorge between Juviles and Timar

Stopped at Timar hoping to buy some fruit-juice, a new midday habit, but no shops. It was getting quite hot, Christine has a blister, and our early morning pace had burned out. Started to discuss short-cuts to Berchules but in the end decided to stick with the original schudule. The usual mid-day blues were then compounded when we missed the trail and had to retrace our steps up a horrible concrete road.

Actually the E4 route between Timar and Lobras is just mad. Lots of money has been spent restoring an ancient waterway which contours between the two settlements and has a good footpath running along it's side. Ignoring this obvious route the E4 plunges down steeply into the gorge and then climbs it's way out again on the other side.

By the time we got to Lobras, yet another pretty white village, we were on a roll again and made great progress through a complete change of scenery on the route to Cadiar. We entered a fertile valley with a stream cutting through an alluvial flood plain, and the path took us through little fields of beans and tomatoes. Met a man on mule, or an ass, not sure which is which, on the way to his fields.

Approaching Cadiar

Stopped at a bar in Cadiar and fortified ourselves before the usual sting in the tail end of day walk, this time a savage climb out of the valley up to Berchules. Great views across the valley looking backwards with the late afternoon sun and even better views in the bar as Christine and I consumed two beers each, Juan only had one but he's Spanish and we are from northern beer drinking Europe!

Evening sun looking back to Cadiar

Great day's walking.

Bubion to Trevelez

Mountain towns seem to have a common feel wherever they are. It's the sense of being away from things at the end of the road, and not on the way to anywhere else. This late in the season the little towns are quite empty, and cold at the end of the day - you can feel the seasons changing.

I wanted to come to Bubion and stay at the Hostal las Terrazas because Christine and I stayed there about 15 years ago. It wasn't exactly how we remembered it but even nicer and had great views.

The weather is still excellent but starting feel unsettled, so we had clear blue sky the first half of the day but cloud in the afternoon - it is threatening to rain and indeed the forecast is not so good for the day after tomorrow.

Perhaps the best view of the day was the early morning view, following the climb up over the pass to the east of Bubion, looking up the Poqueria valley to the top of Velata (3394m).

Bubion

After this first climb the path went down and through, in rapid succession, a series of traditional immaculately kept white villages - Capilerilla, Pitres, Atalbeitar, Portugas and Busquistar.

With navigation now in Juan's super- capable hands, Christine and I were not paying that much attention to the big unresolved navigational issue, could we get through to Trevelez without a long walk along the road? Juan had heard that a land slip had destroyed the original path but was not sure whether an alternative had been constructed. Of course asking locals whether a long walk through the countryside was intact or not does not always produce a sensible answer, and people who live and work in the countryside seem to think that people who walk for pleasure are mad. After asking the question to a dozen or so people, two answers which seemed for once to accord with each other gave us confidence and we pressed on.



At Portugas we stopped for lunch (fruit juice and salami) sitting around an 'outdoor fitness centre' which every village around here seems to have (sponsored by a local bank). Then we walked down the hill to the Agua Agria de Portugas, a famous mineral water spa. Coach loads of tourists were stopping to sample the orange tinted water which is supposed to be healthy, it tasted disgusting, like drinking rusty nails. When it comes to health giving qualities I'm a rusty nail water drinking sceptic.

Agua Agria

After the white villages we set off on the final 10 kilometre stretch up the valley to Travelez. The clouds were beginning to gather but the views were wonderful. These mountains are not Alpine despite rising to well over 3,000 metres. If anything they resemble the Pennine moors but on an absolutely massive scale.

Up the valley to Trevelez

Eventually we found out what the landslip had done to the route - a new 300 metre drop into a gorge to by pass it, and the inevitable 300 metre climb out the other side. At the bottom of the gorge there was an interesting little footbridge which everyone crossed safely, despite the attention of the cameras.

Under the Landslip

Arrived at Trevelez just after 5. Lovely old town and the hotel we are staying in, the Hotel la Fragua, is excellent, nice room with views down the valley. Trevelez has a claim to be the highest town in Spain and is famous for its 'jamon' which, no doubt, we will be sampling later on this evening.

Lanjaron to Bubion

The big news today is that first there were two and now there are three. We are walking with Juan Holgado. I met Juan in March, between Los Barrios and Castillo de Castellar, and he became a constant source of advice and guidance for the rest of walk. He has kindly agreed to join us for the rest of the this trip despite the fact that it turns out I have been spelling his name wrong for months (Holgado not Holdago). Juan is an expert in all things walking in Spain so I won't be doing anymore navigation.

Another brilliant walk, high up above the valley but today heading east rather than south. Better still we have left the dust vehicle trails which have been standard over the last four days and are walking along ancient Moorish tracks, often parallel with old irrigation canals, which this part of Spain is famous for. We are now in the Alpujarras and the Sierra Nevada Natural Park, spectacular walking.

Climbing up and looking back to Lanjaron we saw the first of a series of towns and villages, all perched up on the side of the mountains, and all white. Lanjaron, by far the largest, overlooks for ancient Moorish route from Granada to the coast, its strategic position is crowned with a castle and the designation "gateway to the Alpujarras".

Lanjaron from the east

After Lanjaron you visit the villages of Canar, Sopurtujar before the final and perhaps most famous trio of white villages, Pampeneira, Bubion and Capileira (above Bubion but not on the GR7).

These tiny, intensely compact villages with their ancient street patterns are lovely but for me the star of the show was the path itself. This is genuine contour walking and contour walking with huge views. For once you don't have to consume huge amounts of energy to see huge amounts of scenery.

Trail towards Canar

The trail from Lanjaron was a fairly steep climb up to a col and then a gentle descent through almonds and figs to Canar. From Canar the path countered round the sides of a spectacular valley to Sopurtujar, where we bought fruit juice and sat in the shade for 10minutes. Then we followed an old moorish irrigation channel which meant the path was completely flat but high up the valley side so the views were fantastic. We could see the Mediterranean in the south, and the gorge we walked down 2 days ago in the west. At one point we spotted 3 mountain goats.

Mountain Goat

Then down to cross the valley over a road bridge before the final climb up first to Pampeneira and finally to Bubion, both gorgeous beautifully preserved White villages. Staying in Hostal des Terraces which has wonderful views across the valley. Christine and I stayed here 15 years ago and have good memories.

Pampaneira and Bubion

Albunuelas to Lanjaron

Another "interesting" day, blessed by absolutely stunning weather but more walking than we had bargained for. Planning the route we had used the schedules in the Cicerone guide but the route had been changed in 2 places and as far as we can tell, instead of 30 kilometres it was nearer 37. Although now anaesthetised by a couple of beers, the memory of the final 7 kilometre slog downhill into Lanjaron remains painful.

Leaving Albunuelas after an English breakfast at just after 9 the first part of the walk was pleasant. From village to village, first Saleres then Restabal, alongside irrigation canals, terraced fruit trees and, best of all, pomegranates which Christine has now developed a taste for. It was at Murchas, the next village that things went pear shaped.

Saleres

The guide (and the track on the GPS) said go down into the gorge, and 10 kilometres to Niguelas. The signs said go up through the village towards a hill with wind turbines. We followed the signs, got high above the village and then found the signs had been vandalised. After walking 2k along a hot road in the wrong direction we decided to cut over the steep hill with the wind turbines as my GPS map suggested our destination was over the other side. We bushwhacked up steep terraces with almonds and prickly undergrowth, eventually, to our surprise, finding some E4 signs on a dirt road higher up. It became apparent that the route had been completely changed to take account of the new motorway running along the bottom of the valley.

Crossing the Motorway near Niguelas

Following the signs into Niguelas we got there at about 1.30, a little bit late but no big deal. Had a fast lunch near the church in the centre of town and then headed off into the really big hills to the east of the village. This time all three sources of information were different with the signs taking us round the side of a gorge to Acequias, a small village to south of Niguelas but two or three kilometres out of our way. Climbing back up along a lovely old path everything eventually came back together and we enjoyed a navigationally unchallenging high contour dirt road walk all the way to Lanjaron.

It was actually a gorgeous walk, high up, largely flat with enormous views to the tops of the mountains to the east and the huge valley to the west and south. The hill above Murchas with the wind turbines, which we had complained about earlier in the day, was now just a pimple below us. Amazing also what a difference perfect weather for walking makes and it's hard to think of better weather - sky blue, sun above us but with the altitude and a gentle breeze keeping the heat away.

Between Niguelas and Lanjaron

Evening light above Lanjaron

Of course the sting in the tail, as it so often is, was the final hour of the day. The guide correctly warned us that we would see Lanjaron a long way before we got there. Sure enough, having gone around a final bend there it was, within splitting distance but 7 kilometres away and a long way down. The path, designed for vehicles rather than animals with legs, meandered endlessly down and our occasional attempts to take a short cut were met with almost impenetrable undergrowth and scratched arms and legs.

Dropping down into Lanjaron

Arrived at Lanjaron at about 6.30 having walked 36 kilometres and climbed 1200 metres. Excellent day's walking but just a little bit long. It's a lovely spa town with a huge choice of accommodation. We are staying in the Hotel Castillo which is excellent.

Jayena to Albunuelas

Really good day's walking, definitely the best so far; great countryside away from the olive and almond trees, didn't get lost, and even found somewhere for lunch.

Started well. After three days we had our first breakfast: two cafe con leches each and huge quantities of bruschetta. After her caffeine shot Christine was full of energy and raring to go.

Leaving Jayena

After a couple of kilometres walking along a road in the early morning sun it was into woodland along a completely empty forest trail. For once we didn't see a vehicle all day, in fact apart from the lunch stop and the last couple of kilometres we didn't see anyone all day.

We were walking through woodland but it was natural Corsican pine, very open with lots of big views all day. The GR7 had kept to the north of the Alimijara y Alhama Natural Park but today dived right into it, and once we had climbed above the plain the scenery was excellent.



After about three hours the countryside opened up completely with the green pines showing up strongly against recently turned soil. The pine trees look fresh, almost spring like, and are a striking contrast to the autumn colours everywhere else.

Approaching Meson Los Prados

After 17 kilometres you reach a main road and the cafe restaurant Meson los Prados, perfectly positioned for a lunch stop. Excellent food.

Then the afternoon. After a short walk along the road which meandered around the top of a valley, we plunged into a gorge which carried on, for about 12 kilometres, nearly all the way to Albunuelas. This was a lovely walk, gently down hill all the way and surrounded by the wonderful pine trees, rust coloured cliffs above and a dry river bed below. The first part of the path was a scramble through overgrown scrub, criss-crossing the dry stream bed; then we hit a more substantial track. Christine decided to walk in the stream bed some of the time.

In the gorge down to Albunuelas

Just outside our final destination we were joined by a party of Spanish schoolchildren who had been working at an activity centre in the gorge.

Albunuelas is a lovely old moorish village, not destroyed by the earthquake like some others. We are staying in La Casa Azul, run by a lovely retired English couple and were greeted with a cup of PG Tips: perfect.