Day 25 GR1 to Graus

Christine's luck continued into a second day. Wonderful sun all morning until about 2pm. Then cloud and wind, but it didn't start to rain until we got to the hotel in Graus.

Great breakfast at casa rural in Salinas de Trillo, again everything homemade. Four different sorts of cured meat, cheese and of course sweet Spanish tomato pulp to put on your toast. There was a litre of red wine on the table but no takers, but the cafe con leche with this morning's fresh goats milk went down very well. The cost per person, by the way, was 38 euros for dinner bed and breakfast and as much red wine and other home made beverages as you can drink - Spain offers great value.

When we left we really felt like we had made some new friends. Would be great to go back there.

Day 24 GR1 to Salinas de Trillo

First day for Christine and so far she has been 100 per cent lucky, gorgeous sunny morning, clouded up just a bit in the afternoon but both the thunder storms missed us, one to the north and one to the south.

Got better views of Liguerre de Cinca this morning (it was dark when we got there last night), great location and carefully restored. Very much like a Parador, the trade union has done a great job.

Liguerre de Cinca

Day 23 GR1 Liguerre de Cinca

Apparently the weather has been dodgy back in the UK and Christine was stuck on runway at Stansted for 5 hours. Poor Juan was waiting for her at Zaragoza Airport with the intention of making a multi-modal trip to Samitier to meet me at 3 o'clock to climb a big hill to look at a castle before going to the hotel. Despite the plane being so late amazingly they get to Samitier after Juan charms a lift from a young woman who is waiting for her cousin on the same flight. She drives them the 75 kilometres to Huesca and they then get the taxi as planned - alls well that ends well.

All I have had to do today is walk 20 kilometres from Paulas de Sarsas to Samitier. Nice walk but without with drama of yesterday. The Pyrenees were shrouded in cloud and the little villages had people living in them. Within 15 kilometres or so from rural desolation, villages like Arcusa had been restored and the houses gentrified.

Day 22 GR1 Paulas de Sarsas

Totally massive day, and apart from a 15 minute break I walked for 10 hours and 30 minutes and covered 40 kilometers. There was significant climb as well with 4 passes to cross. Another wonderful day, amazing scenery, lovely trail and so much to see.

Said goodbye to Piluca at the casa rural at 8.45 in Nocito and the next person I saw was a shepherd, stick behind his back with three wildly barking dogs, leading his flock of sheep up the hill to Las Bellostas. That was about 9 hours later and he was clearly surprised to see me.

Even more than yesterday the evidence was everywhere that this was a countryside which was full and is now empty. I had my lunch next to a church at the abandoned village of Nasarre. In front of me was a grave where a man had been buried in 1962. As I said yesterday it's all happened in my lifetime. Just down the hill, set amongst neglected terraced fields, is the large and impressive farmstead at Pardina Villanúa - you can still the blue paintwork on the beams in the front room. From the distance Otin looks like it's occupied - there is stucco on some of the houses and some have ornate metal balconies but, despite a sign on a wall pointing you to the bar, Otin is as empty as everywhere else.

Day 21 GR1 Nocito

Brilliant walk, great scenery, lots of interesting and unexpected things and a lovely trail.

Again it's a different route to the one Juan walked and today the GR1 Sendero Historico followed the Camino Natural de la Hoya de Huesca all the way from Arguis to Nocito. I went on the old route, which still has GR signs on it, along the road up to the pass at Mesón Nuevo only to find when I got there that the new route came cross country up from Arguis. To be honest it didn't look that nice - all routes lead to the pass and there's a sodding great motorway to be avoided whichever way you go.

Once I got on the new route the signs were brilliant and took me all the way to Nocito. Compared with the original GR1 it's more "off road" - carefully avoiding anything that could be accessed by a vehicle. It's had a lot of money spent on it including some unnecessary and slightly ugly hand-rails. Minor complaint though on what is otherwise an excellent trail.

Day 20 GR1 Arguis

Doesn't feel that I've done a full day's walking when I finish at 2.30, particularly when weather is as perfect as it was today. Got another short one tomorrow as well!

I stayed in a casa rural in Bolea and Isabel, the landlady, couldn't stop laughing despite the fact that we didn't understand a word each other were saying. She rang her daughter this morning just to ask me if I wanted to take a sandwich, and then rang her again to find what I wanted in it. What a pain the language barrier is.

Like yesterday the GR1 has been rerouted. From Bolea until it crosses the pass at Paso de Nieve it follows the same route as the Camino Natural de la Hoya de Huesca and then reverts to its original route.

Ermita de la Trinidad

Day 19 GR1 Bolea

When it comes to navigating along long distance trails every country in Europe is different. In the UK we have fantastic maps, with the routes and rights of way clearly marked but on the ground the way marking is comparatively poor. In Spain the routes are not marked on the maps so you're dependent on the way marking, guides when they exist, or a GPS trail from someone who has already walked the trail before. I'm using Juan's trail which he has developed over a series of trips along the GR1.

In Spain routes do however change, much more frequently than in the UK where changing a "right of way" is a big deal legally. In addition variants are often added and "on the ground" it can get a bit confusing particularly when there is no route map to refer to. That was the story of today - lovely route but not the one I was expecting and a good bit longer.