The first thing to say is that we may have been very lucky with the weather. My experience of walking in the Alps is that the weather is more reliable than the UK, but for the test run it was near perfect. Also spring arrived late this year and the flowers came both late and at once - this meant that we saw "everything" from meadows full of orchids, gentians and globeflowers, and all colours, with all shades of purple, blue and yellow.
The second thing to say is that all the planned stops were "pre-programmed" (booked) and the programming had been based on the projected time needed to walk from one hutte to the next. The timings were provided by the hutte web sites (and used on all the signs in Austria). We were carrying our stuff but travelling light.
The slightly worrying thing is that the next hours revealed my ability to ignore the all evidence. Despite a map, and despite knowing where I was, I still thought that the peak in the reasonably located middle distance was the Hoher Freschen ignoring the evidence said it was further away.
|Stepping carefully up to Hoher Freschen|
After that, 15 minutes or so to the hutte, nice dinner, a host dressed like Roy Orbison but not such a good singer (did an interesting over the top German version of an REM song), cold water wash and bed.
Not a brilliant nights sleep and woke up unable to find my camera. Went through all the pockets in my back-pack, checked with Roy Orbison, even walked back up to the top of Hoher Freschen, but no luck. Set of to Damuls fed up but determined not to let incompetence ruin the trip. The route was brilliant, three hours where the path sticks limpet like to the contour refusing to give or take a metre of climb or fall. Great scenery but no pictures. Eventually climbed over a small arrete and then dropped down to the Partaaple Hutte, ordered a banana milkshake, and with a small cloud appearing on the horizon dived into the rucksack for my waterproofs. Found my camera. An incompetent incompetent.
The rest of the route down into Damuls was not so nice, down amongst the trees again and very hot. Christine started to wilt and we stopped at a farmhouse offering snacks. No one there but the woman in charge. Christine ordered a cheese sandwich and I asked for ham. What we got was two platters with wonderfully arranged home grown produce. By the time we left the place was packed.
Arrived in Damuls to discover the place I had booked was out of town and a mile of the route. Christine goes on strike but after a stand-off in the sun (sitting on opposite sides of road incommunicado) she rings the hotel, tells them her husband is an idiot and can't read a map and would they mind if we cancelled. They didn't and we book into a nice hotel in the middle of town where the waitresses wore Austrian national costumes. Lovely room, a bath - good result Christine.
|Zitterklapfen on the horizon|
|Marching across a meadow below Hechschere|
|Clinging on at the top of Hochshere|
The rest of the walk was pretty tough, high up on the side of the valley underneath the Zitteklapfen. Just as you started to relax, the route would take you across a landslip and the path became treachourous again. Our nerves were further stretched by some aggressive cows, less submissive than their UK sisters, who were keen to chase us off their mountain. Stopped to chat with a couple of walkers who asked us which way we had come and their sharp intake of breadth when we said the Hochshere Pass made us feel a lot better.
|Look no path|
Theoretically Goppinger Hutte, the Day 4 target, was only 4 hours from Biberache Hutte - a "rest day" after 10 hours on Day 3. What was becoming apparent, however, was that keeping pace with the Austrian standard hour walking pace was tough, particularly when you were going up hill. Day 4 involves 880 metres of climb, 480 descent over 12 kms all to be completed in 4 hours.
All the descent was in the first couple of hours, downhill into woods and where tree roots crossed the paths making the going treacherous. At the bottom and across a stream you suddenly had to pull yourself up a twenty foot near vertical face using a steel rope - a sudden change of pace.
|Rope assisted climb|
|Climbing up to Goppinger|
The main topic of conversation over dinner was the extent of my navigation/planning skills. Christine's confidence, stretched by the huge walks on Day 1 and Day 3, was given a further knock when we worked out that I had screwed up for Day 5. Because I'm a penny pincher, and didn't buy the map needed for a tiny part of the route, my proposed Day 5 schedule was wrong. The direct route to Ravensburger (4 hours) meant going down the valley and along the road and was not the NW 01 or the E4. The real route meant going to Frieburger Hutte (4 hours 30) and then to Ravensburger (another 4.30) - 9 hours excluding breaks and given the track record this could be much longer. Christine, with German back-up, was now questioning the latter parts of the route as well.
|I think these are Chamois|
The walk in afternoon was one of the best I have ever done. An initial climb, a long grassy contour was followed by some really tough kast walking. Stretched out across the limestone blocks was a party of elderly Germans who were really struggling necessitating a helicopter rescue for one of them. Then the really big climb up to the Aufstieg zum Gehrengrat (2439 metres) - a big climb but through a alpine grassland all the way. After resting at the top, where the alpine grassland ended abruptly with a cliff, the route took us along the ridge and then sharply down into the valley below empty apart from numerous marmots with their distinctive whistle.
Despite not getting to the Hutte until about 6.45 we both felt great. Immediate beer, followed by food, hot shower and in bed by 8.30. Brilliant day.
|Christine with friend|
Of course cheats never prosper, and if we had got the lift, we would have missed Anthony Gormley's statues which at the moment are staring across the valley halfway down to Zurs. Zurs itself, once we got there, was awful, an empty ski resort, a ghost town, where, in the summer, you can't even get a coffee.
|Sunset at Stuttgarter Hutte|
Christine's confidence in my navigation had returned only marginally. We were booked into the Kaiserjochhaus which was theoretically 8 hours away but we had a debate about whether it was too far. As a fail safe we also booked the Leukircher Hutte which is half way. We set of at 7.40 in great form, another brilliant morning. Climbed over the pass (2420 metres) underneath Wilder Kasten and then down to Erlachealpe (1922 metres) and then up again over a pass at about 2,300 metres. Some amber path walking high up on the valley coming up from Erlacheaple but after that in the sun in a stunningly beautiful green valley. Arrived triumphantly at the Leuckircher Hutte at 11.15 and talked to the landlord about a potential world record. Celebrated with an enormous plate of potatoes and grilled spam - a delicacy in these parts. We were now back on the E4 proper (signed for the first time) and the Alderweg which is clearly a major Austrian long-distance route with a much higher profile than the NW 01. Looks like there has been a lot of investment in this part of the route - new signs, new steel ropes.
|Grilled spam and eggs - yes!|
|The E4 really exists|
Final stretch of the walk was a lovely contour walk high above the St Anton valley and nailing the schedule we arrived at Kaiserjochhaus at 3.30. No single rooms available and the prospect of spending the last night in the mountains in a dormitory is too much. I am also wearing a T-shirt for the second day and need to keep moving to stay ahead of my own smell. We decide to drop down to Pettneu. Found a lovely hotel (hotels are really cheap in the summer) and got cleaned up.
|No dormitories please|
Next day bus and train to Zurich meaning that instead of walking we have a city break.
All in all a great holiday, brilliant walk, really helpful test run. Separate blog on the lessons learnt.
Special thanks to Christine, not known for her patience, she never expressed more than gentle doubts for what were justifiable concerns about the quality of the plan.