Stage 13 - The E4 through Eastern Austria

Coming up with a simple explanation for my route through the eastern half of Austria is not easy.  Firstly I have to explain that there are two E4 options through Austria, one which takes you along the Nordalpenweg 01 and one which takes you along the NordAlpenweg 04.  Secondly the route I took combined bits of both options - I took the 04 for the first six days after Salzburg and then switched south to the 01.  Thirdly I have to explain that my last two days in Austria were on an option which I made up myself designed to avoid what I considered to be an unnecessary diversion which goes north and then south again before joining up with the E4 through Hungary.

Of course I was trying to save time.  I had been walking for five months and was keen to get to Budapest and home to London.  The bad weather through Bavaria had taken its toll on my morale and the forcast was for more rain.  More important neither of the official E4 options seemed to make sense to me.  Both routes struggle to join up with the start of the Hungarian section in a direct way.  The northern variant takes you to Vienna and then south while the southern variant takes you east, close to the Hungarian border, but then heads north to Neusiedler See, before retracing its route south.

The truth of the matter is that the international long distance routes don't always make sense.  They are superimposed on national routes which vary in complexity and develop over time.  Given the huge potential for beautiful walking, the route is particularly complicated in Austria.  Not only are there two basic variants (one following 01 and other the 04) but there are variants within variants (with the 01 splitting in eastern Austria with one leg going to Vienna and the other to Rust).

Nordalpenweg 04 and 01

Friday 19th August Bromberg to Markt St Martin

Frustrating day if I'm honest, now close to the Hungarian border but not quite in the place I wanted to be.

I had already decided that because I was going on the E4 to Budapest there was no real point in going to Neusiedler See. The E4 used to finish at Neusedler See and rather than changing all the signs the route still takes you there via Marzerkogel and then brings you back to same place before heading down to Landsee. I had thought about cutting the corner off altogether and heading for Landsee from Semmering but decided to stick to the route but turn south to Landsee from Marzerkogel. I had hoped to get to Landsee today but didn't make it.

Several things got in my way.

Firstly I was knackered after yesterday's walk. In addition I didn't get much sleep last night. The wonderful people at the Gasthof Oberger, who put me up and fed me at the last minute, were also hosting an enormous public meeting (farmers I think, all wearing checked shirts, very mid-west) and the last of them didn't leave until about 2.30. Not complaining though, had lost my hat and my hosts kindly found me another one this morning.

Secondly I got lost again. The signs have got a lot worse and it is impossible to find your way without a map. No where to get a map, this is not a walking area and newsagents and hotels don't carry them in the way they do in the walking areas. I  found my way to Hochwolkersdorf but missed the signs after that and ended up to the south of the route at Schwarzenbach.

Went to the Rathaus (town hall) consulted the map with the secretary and decided that the best thing to do was cut my losses on the northeast corner of the route and rejoin it as it heads south to Landsee 6 kilometres down the road at Kobersdorf. This shortened the route and gave me time to have a proper sit down lunch - under domestic pressure to eat more.

Thirdly the weather changed. An enormous thunder storm which had me sheltering in a garage for over an hour. All of a sudden I didn't have as much time as I thought.

Fourthly gasthofs in the lessor tourist areas seem to close in August. Arrived at Kobersdorf at 4 worried about weather and whether I should commit to another 90 minute walk to Landsee give the time and the rain. Checked out the in Kobersdorf and it was shut. Now Landsee is much smaller than Kobersdorf and I hadn't booked anything. Instead of pressing on I felt I had no choice but to head to Markt St Martin, very unpleasant walk along roads.

Will try and find a local walking map in the morning but the simplest option would be to go direct to Kozeg and join the E4 there. It's on the well marked (I think) Blue Route and I have the trail on my GPS. This, to be honest, feels like a bit of a cheat, but roaming around looking for non-existent signs is getting beyond a joke.

Not much else to report. Saw a man walking a two goats today, one was on a lead. Cows were in a nearby field and they became very aggressive. I think there might be a lesson here for friends who struggle with cattle. The first must be to avoid taking a goat with you when approaching cattle and the second is to avoid any perfume or other smells that remind cattle of goats.





And also I have lightened my load by leaving my sticks on the side of a road ready to be recycled by a new user. They had seized up and there was no way of getting them home. Just hope the dogs aren't savage in Hungary or I might regret my decision.

Thursday 18th August Semmering to Bromberg

Walking on your own is just different. It's not either or, and personally I like walking on my own, with Christine, with a friend or with friends. So today was the first day in a month I've been walking on my own and have enjoyed some of it's upsides. Going as fast as I like and for as long as I like. I have also experienced some of it's downsides, getting lost more often and carrying on too long.

I definitely miss more turns and get lost more often walking on my own. Amazing how many times over the last few days Christine has spotted the turn and now, how many times I'm now having to go back because I missed it.

As well as walking on my own I'm also in completely different country. It's not completely flat but it's not the Alps. It's now rolling countryside, a mixture of meadow and woodlands and frequent and often prosperous villages.

Said goodbye to Christine, tried and failed to buy a map, and was walking by about 9.45. Didn't really finished until after 8 but will come back to the interesting end later.

First part of the walk to Maria Shultz was along the same lovely forest trail we finished yesterday's walk on. Dappled light from the bright sunshine above, a level trail soft underfoot, it made you want to walk fast. Into the sun at Maria Shultz and heat of the day hit me for the first time.

Rolling Meadows

The second part of walk joined up a series of pretty villages - Reach, Egg, Ramssattel - all on a ridge at about 900 metres and overlooking a valley to the north.

Rich Villages

After a long woodland walk, a visit to Hassbach - where Wittgenstein lived for a while - the next part of the walk involved missing the turn near Than and getting lost in the woods for an hour. This should have been the signal to stop, it was five o'clock and there was a choice of gasthofs at Scheilbingkirchen. Instead I decided to press on.

Wittgenstein was here

The sign said 7 kilometres but that was along the road; the footpath was a lot longer and involved a steep climb at the beginning. It was actually a nice walk, great views back to the Heukuppe which I had climbed with Christine a couple of days ago and which were now hosting a dramatic thunderstorm, remnants of which caught me just before I got to Bromberg.

I was then hit by a worrying new phenomena the gasthof was closed for the holiday. After wandering the streets of Bromberg confirming that there was no alternative I asked a man coming out the Church if he could point to the nearest one, he did and even wrote down the address. It was seven kilometres away.

Took of my waterproofs and set off (later discovered I had left my gortex hat). Was sticking my thumb out with no success but after walking for about 20 minutes the man from the church turns up. He had checked the address he had given, found out that they did not do accommodation, but had booked me somewhere else. Dropped me off at my new accommodation and within minutes I was showered, drinking beer and consuming huge quantities of food. Counts as another in the series of E4 walker rescues.

Wednesday August 17th Karl Ludwig Haus to Semmering

Final guest blog by Christine

Today, my last taste of the E4 and my last day with John till he gets back, was a day of four parts. Two were good; two were pretty bad.

The good parts were determined by the perfect weather - a cloudless sky and fresh breeze - and by a variety of quality walking ranging from high alpine mountain tops to well-graded woodland trails.

The bad parts were entirely due to the lack of proper geographic information (and dare I say it, prior research) and the most fundamental requirement, a map. Perhaps I should also mention that we had no food with us other than a few hariboo jelly beans and a handful of raisins.

We were woken early by the few inhabitants of Karl Ludwig Haus crashing about, and were outside in the sunshine at 7.50am. The billowing cloud from the night before had gone and the sky was completely clear, giving us exhilarating views in all directions. There was quick route down to Preiner Gschaid but John decided that would be cheating so we did it the long way, going first up over Predigtshul and then round and steeply down the usual zig zag rocky root ridden path. It was a great start to the day though and we got down to the big car park feeling good.

Karl Ludwig Haus

Dropping down to Wax Riegel Haus

Then it got bad. First no cafe or place to buy food. Second no signs. We wandered about up and down the road but there were absolutely no 801 signs anywhere. We were getting desperate. We knew the trail went due south from the car park so I got the compass out and we started up an unmarked track through the trees going vaguely in the right direction. Still no signs. Lots of bad temper and stress. After numerous twists and turns we finally saw a rusty 801 sign nailed to a tree about 90 minutes after leaving the car park. Spirits lifted and John shot off so fast I couldn't keep up.

Confusing signs

Treated ourselves to few raisins on the next summit and then things started to improve. We were on a perfect path going very gradually down but hugging the contours so it was dead easy. Even better, it was paved with pine needles so wonderfully kind to the feet, like a top quality carpet with underlay. We strode out and must have clocked at least 5 km an hour. This went on for quite a while and we really enjoyed it.

At last an open bit

The path eventually normalised into rocks and roots. We were getting tired and hungry, but the path then decided to go up quite unnecessarily I thought, to a small summit called Pinkenkogel Haus. The sun became blastingly hot. We had been promised a hutte and possible food at this point but predictably the hutte was closed, so we had slaved up the hill for nothing.

We then had to find Semmering. John had promised a reasonable sized town with hotels and other semblances of civilisation. He said it was at 900 metres so we shouldn't have to drop too far, I should be able to get my train to Vienna tomorrow, and he should be able to proceed on his E4 walk with minimal disruption. The signs however were highly confusing and we ended up dropping down to a series of S bends on a long winding road lined with 19th century villas that had seen better days. No hotels, no gasthofs. I was getting decidedly bad tempered, being tired and hungry and thirsty - the water run out some time back. After another hour of messing about on wild goose chases we finally found a pension that both had a room and served food. Thank goodness. We must have done 35 km today at least, and over 1500m descent all in all.

So mixed feelings about today. No doubt after a good night's sleep and breakfast all will be fine.
Doing the E4 is tough though. I am still in one piece after 16 days walking and we are still talking to each other. But I wouldn't have the mental or physical strength to do what John does. Don't know how he does it.

Monday 15th Graf Meran Haus to Neuburg

Given the terrible weather forecast, was keen get of the high mountains as quickly as possible so it was an early breakfast and out if the hutte by 7.20. Slightly strange breakfast, I think some of our walkers were pilgrims and keen to get out and up to the cross on the Hohe Vietsch while others, including the bearded mascot, were on their second beer before we left.

Graf Meran Haus drinker

Wonderful early morning walking, high open moorland type scenery, huge views.

Early views leaving Graf Meran Haus

Started to look dodgy quite quickly and perhaps I was looking for bad weather which in the end didn't actually arrive. Was accused of going too fast by Christine.

Dropping down a bit, the open countryside turned into pine forest with the track taking us along one ridge and then another. Despite walking through pine trees it was a pleasant walk, soft underfoot with a series of gentle climbs and descents. Although the anticipated rain didn't materialise I still wanted to press on and the main problem was keeping Christine moving through the periodic patches of wild raspberries. I thought they were too small to bother with but she just wanted to gorge herself.

Lots of tree walking

After the Hochschwab this part of the E4 isn't so well walked and the trail is not well marked. I was now depending on footpath signs for navigation as had run out of map, and at times finding them was like hunting for treasure. We were determined not to press on without a sign but, particularly where there had been recent forestry work, they seemed carefully hidden.

Eventually and after some particularly poor signage we were heading into Krampen which is where I expected to find a gasthof and, after three night's without a decent wash, a shower. Shock horror no gasthof. We didn't have the energy or cleanliness to press onto the next hutte which was another two hours away (although it was only 2.30 at this point). We were also struggling to figure out how Christine was going to get out of the mountains and catch her flight on Thursday if she stuck with me for another three nights of huttes. We decided we had to find a town and decided to end down the valley to Neuburg.

Even this didn't turn out to be as simple as we had hoped. My out of date guide said Neuburg had a railway station but when, after the best part of hour we got there, we found it was long closed as was the gasthof in the centre of the village.

We followed a sign to accommodation high above the village but it to seemed closed. Patience was running out. Wandered round the back and found the owner. She said yes they were closed but that they could find us a room, the restaurant was shut but she could find us some eggs and bread if we didn't mind managing for ourselves. It has all worked out very well, great room.

By 4 o'clock the skies opened and the rain came pouring down. Slightly later than forecast I still feel vindicated that we pressed on and got out of the high mountains before the weather changed. Hope it improves a bit before tomorrow. I will be on my own again for the last bit of the Alps before heading down again for the final three week run to Budapest.

Sunday 14th August Voisthaler Hutte to Graf Meran Haus

Would have been perfect if we had had today's weather yesterday. The early morning sun was wonderful but instead of going up we were heading down into the valley, with cloud sitting at the bottom of it. Had a great walk however,covered more ground than we anticipated, and finished the day at an 1800 metre hutte with great views across the valley.

Shared our room with a couple of other people last night but we both slept well. Up early and out by 8.15 to start the long trek down the valley. The valley/gorge was a continuation of the amazing feature we had enjoyed at the end of yesterday but looked even better in the morning sun. We met a steady stream of people coming the other way, more and more of them, some from Vienna and others more local but all wanting to enjoy the Hochschwab on a sunny bank holiday Sunday. When we got down we walked past a huge collection of parked cars, showing how popular this area is for weekend walkers.

Heading down to Seewiesen

Looking back up to Voisthaler Hutte

A strudel stop at Seewiesen, surrounded by a group of leather clad bikers amused by Christine's choice of head gear, and then a really steep climb up through pine trees up to Seeburg.

After Seeburg an easy walk along pretty valley towards Gotlacher Alm. Lots of families with small children enjoying the scenery and weather.

Leaving Turnauer Alm

We were now walking through a mix of alpine pasture and woodland, easy walking and to be honest given the scarcity of fine weather we really would have liked to be higher and completely out of the trees.

At about 2.30 we stopped at Turnauer Alm for lunch. The plan had been to stop here for the night but it seemed too early and given the great weather the poor forcast for tomorrow we decided to press on. The target was Graf Meran Haus, near the top of Hohe Vietsch, a climb of around 500 metres.

The signs were really confusing giving different timings and this added a certain tension to the decision to press on. I said it should take about 2 hours but some of the signs were suggesting a lot longer. The last part of the walk was a savage very steep open climb. Happily the hutte was just past the ridge and we were drinking beer by 4.45.

Climbing up to Graf Meran Haus 

The Graf Meran Haus turned out to be a special place. High up, amazing views, sharing the sunset and the rising of a full moon with a group of easy going, fairly well oiled walkers, exactly what makes this sort of walking special. Music is a feature of the huttes in this part of Austria and a stream of hikers were ready to pick the hutte accordion and blast out a folk song.

Good fun evening as well. Centre of attention was a full bearded ancient Austrian male who seemed to be hutte mascot (although given his beer consumption, a very expensive mascot). Was very interested in the English and kept trying to persuade us to sing, but everyone else was doubled up with laughter so we suspected we were the subject of the joke. A particularly kind fellow walker did the interpretation but he had wonderful manners and I'm sure a certain amount was lost in translation.

Looking forward for shower, three huttes in a row and this one, although it had plenty of beer, had no water and no electricity. Nice room though, no sharing tonight.

Saturday 13th August Sonnschien Hutte to Volsthaler Hutte

So straight to the heart of it, a truly embarrassing navigational cock-up, embarrassing in particular because for once we were not able to keep the blunder a secret.

And the mist descends

Parties to the blunder are: atrocious weather conditions, rain, hail and visibility down to ten yards; an emergency prefabricated cabin (like a work mans' hut at the side of a UK road) at Fleischer-Biwak on the map below; the summit Hochschwab; and Schiestl-hutte, also on the map below.




After a reasonably fine start the weather got really bad. Firstly the mist came down so we couldn't see a thing, then it started to rain, and then with hail it got really cold. At about 11.30 we passed the Fleischer-Biwak (workmans hut ) and it was crammed with cold wet walkers huddled together for warmth. No room for 2 bedraggled Inglisches. In the mist we had no idea whether we had climbed the Hochschwab, which at 2277 metres was the second highest point on my version of the E4 trail, but as we were soon climbing steeply again it was apparent that we hadn't.

Christine was grimly marching on and went straight past a sign saying Hochschwab, I thought she had done this on purpose as why would you go high in this weather? The route she was following was for the Schiestl-Hutte, on the way to Vosthaler Hutte our final destination. 30 minutes later we see a sign saying 1 hour 30 for the Vosthaler Hutte. Encouraged we pressed on. Slightly surprised we hadn't seen Schiestl-Hutte and more surprised we were still going up rather than down, we carry on in our misty cocoon. Another 30 minutes latter we reach a summit with a cross, I rationalise this by thinking there must be a second Hochschwab type summit, although can't remember this from the map (much too wet to get it out), and start to head down the other side. We get to a junction which disappointingly doesn't give us the time to Vosthaler Hutte. Instead a sign says Schiestl-Hutte. Seeing our bemused look a man says we could go the other way to Vosthaler Hutte but it's a very steep descent and instead suggests we go to there via the Schiestl-Hutte route. After a few minutes along this route Christine objects, fed up and wanting to just get there, and says let's go down the steep route so we retrace out steps. After 100 metres or so down the steep route we see an emergency prefabricated cabin full of people sheltering from the rain...... two on the same mountain! A few yards later I see a sign to Sonnschien Hutte and at last smell a rat. We are back exactly where we started from about 90 minutes earlier.....and heading back to where we came from!

Force our way into the shelter and after a few conversations our 360 degree trip is confirmed. The mist begins to lift in every sense. All of a sudden we realise we have walked around, climbed, and come down again back to the starting point. Christine didn't think it was very funny.

So back we went retracing our steps ( and did some bits for the third time). by now we were very cold and tired so it was a blessing when about 20 minutes later the cloud lifted and we started to see our surroundings properly for the first time for hours. There ahead of us round a curve on the side of the mountain was the Scheistl Hutte standing proud overlooking a valley. Couldn't miss it.

We laboured on, feet and hands still numb, and started down a long steep trail. The initial uplift generated by knowing where we were evaporated as the reality of a tricky climb down started to bite. The air filled with groans, moans and curses which is how Christine usually copes with such adversity.

Almost as if to tease the sky cleared and the full drama of the landscape was revealed. The huge cliff up to Hochschwab now dominated the skyline and on top you could make out the cross we had walked around a couple of hours earlier.

To the east of Hochswab

Down to the Voisthaler Hutte

Once down we spent the last 30 minutes walking along a magnificent dry limestone valley down to the Voisthaler Hutte. Chatted to a charming Austrian couple who were in the Sonnschien Hutte with us last night. He had the maps and route on his IPhone, really good value. If we had had that we wouldn't have got lost. The product wasn't available when I left England in March. It's time I got home.

By the way, before it started to rain this morning, we saw mountain goats, the local name is Steinbock, they had a very strong goaty smell.

Steinbock

Friday August 12th Eisenerz to Sonnschien Hutte

Great walk today, bit harder than expected, felt like it was uphill all the way, but got to the hutte in good time and the evening, as I write, is getting increasingly surreal.

Left Eisenerz with no regrets. Last night was definitely the worse meal we have had in Austria, really bad. I know you shouldn't condemn a nation's food on the basis of one meal but we experienced all its worst features at once - lots of processed meat, dreadful overcooked vegetables, and salad drowned in 2 inches of water. Miserable food.

Struggled momentarily to find our way out of town but met a helpful guy who
directed us to the right path. Coincidentally he was also making for the Sonnschein Hutte but by another route (starting with a short bus ride, he told us). He was loaded up with a bag, a proper Austrian walker, put us on the right track, and we are exchanging views about the Austrian walking again as I write.

After a short climb heading north out of Eisenerz the route takes you past the Leopoldsteiner See then gently up a good track through a stunning valley with high limestone cliffs to the north and south. Gorgeous walk with a pretty stream following the path and great views up to the mountains on either side.

Long valley up Hintersee Graben

Huge Limestone Cliffs

Eventually the gentle walking finished and path head relentlessly upwards, still a good path but really steep and energy sapping. Not sure why but the climb seemed much tougher than suggested by the 700 metres ascent. The heat may have had something to do with it - by now it was red hot with the sun beating down.

Approaching the Sonnschien Hutte

We eventually reached a high alpine meadow and stopped for lunch, the usual ham roll finished off with chocolate. Then on, along a high alpine path up and down over limestone until we turned a corner and came across an 'alm', a wooden hut with a guy dishing out various forms of alcohol to a crowd of well satisfied local walkers, who had clearly been there for some time. The men, some with large beery bellies benefiting from long exposure to the sun, all seemed to want to give Christine a kiss, a long way to climb for such a reception.

The final stage of the walk was through more alpine meadow, and for once we didn't seem to be climbing, a lovely easy walk, and by 3.30 we had arrived at the Sonnschien Hutte.

Man with Harmonium

Despite being a Friday night, not too many people staying here. We have the dormitory (or 'lager') to ourselves although there are another 8 or 9 people scattered about in different rooms. Included in that number is a man who clearly comes here regularly and is an expert on the harmonium.  A very generous man he has copious supplies of a local resin spirit and of snuff which he insisted on sharing liberally with the inmates. We have all been sitting here for the last 3 hours quite happily chatting in broken English / German, drinking, humming along to traditional Austrian music and waiting for the very laid back hutte staff to dish up the requested potatoes and sausage. Maybe it will arrive after the next beer.

Thursday August 11th Radner an der Stube to Eisenerz

It's a happy coincidence that all the really tough walks for Christine have been followed by something less demanding and that's exactly what happened today. After yesterday's nerve shattering epic a nice 20 kilometre walk up a easy track over a ridge (about a 700 metre climb) and then down the other side, through a valley to Eisenerz was just what was needed.

Got all my clothes washed in the gasthof last night and either it was free or they forgot to charge me and walking up the hill this morning I was struck with remorse because I had forgotten to say thank you. It was a basic but fun place and very cheap. We had the top of the range "Gordon Bleu" main course - essentially a wiener schnitzel folded in half with ham and cheese in the middle - twowould probably give you an instant heart attack.

Lagauer above Radmer

The weather was perfect and walking up through the trees we had great views back to the village and the Lagauer mountain the descent from which caused us so much grief yesterday.

The weather bought out lots of walkers and we passed the time with three local men. The news about the riots in London had left them with the impression that the whole city had burnt down and that we might be refugees on the run. We tried to confirm that impression and Christine said that all she had left was in her backpack.

Once over the ridge and just around the corner we got full view of Hochkogel and Kaiserschild, two 2100 metres summits set off to perfection by the sun and the blue sky. They were positioned at the top of a quiet valley at the end of which which was a Gasthof serving cake and strudel, perfect for an early lunch.

In the valley heading down to Ramsau

Another 90 minutes or so took us to the outskirts of Eisenerz a town with a long history of iron ore extraction and whose skyline is dominated by a huge but now disused quarry. The town feels just a bit run down. We are staying in a huge Gasthof but have the feeling that we might be the only people here.

The quarry at Eisenerz

Weather forecast for the next two days at least is good and then it might deteriorate again. The schedule puts us up in the mountains again with three nights in huttes over a weekend. Suspect we will be desperate for some privacy and home comforts after that.

Sunday 7th August Spital am Pyhrn to Admont

Elementary school boy navigation error almost too embarrassing to mention both undermined team moral and froze communications for a significant part of today's walk. No problem finding the 01 markings in the middle of Spital am Pyhrn and only had to choose the direction of travel, only two choices and I made the wrong one. Marginal defence was that the guidebook definitely implied that you travel south out of the town. Unfortunately if I had looked at the previous day's schedule in the guidebook I would also have been able to work out that Wurzeralm, the destination on the sign, was on the route heading west, away from Budapest rather than towards it. But why would I bother to look at a schedule I wasn't going to walk?

Anyway we walked 3 kilometres along a hot road in the wrong direction before I finally accepted the fact we were going the wrong way. I was of course very apologetic but my mood darkened when my co-walker insisted that she knew all along we were going wrong.

The two way sulk continued all the way back to the village, all the way up to the Bosruck Hutte (not significantly relieved by wurst and kraut) all the way to Rohrauer Hutte, and only started to melt going down the other side when the clouds blackened and rain began to fall. A huge thunder storm brought the team back together when we had to agree where to find shelter.

Going down the other side was the highlight of the walk. The route takes you over a pass and down the west side of Halle Mauern, a group of mountains which were spectacular in shape and colour. The cloud only added to the drama swirling around the gaps between the mini-summits.

Over the pass at Pyhrgasatteri

Of course the thunder storm signalled yet another deterioration in the weather as another depression tracks across the Alps. The weather pattern round here seems to be two or three days rain followed by a couple of days sun and then two or three days rain again. The locals are describing this summer as a wash out.

Anyway made it to Admont, through the rain, by 4 o'clock. Has a fine church surrounded by a splendid baroque monastery containing a museum and the largest monastery library in the world. It is in an incredibly important building and is why people visit Admont. We looked inside the gate and then pressed on to find the gasthof to get dried out.

Medical update: Christine's knee remains sore but has stood up to 30 kilometres and a climb and descent of around 700 metres so reports of it's demise may be exaggerated.

Took the picture below out of the bedroom window after an enormous dinner.

After the storm from Admot

Friday August 5. Ebensee to Habernau

Guest blog by Christine
After days of up and downs, today was a doodle. Quite a long doodle but relatively painless.

We made the most of what the Hotel Post had to offer at breakfast and left around 8.15am hardly able to move. The trail took us up past waterfalls and then on along southerly stretch on a forest road, peaceful but a little dull. The weather was hot and humid so the shade from trees was welcome.

Going up the steep bit past the waterfall I noticed my left knee really hurt. I was behind John so he didn't see me hobbling up. It got worse as the day went on.

To the east of Ebensee

Footpaths everywhere

Anyway, we got to a beautiful unspoilt shallow lake at Offensee around 12.30 and I went for a swim. Gorgeous. We ate our lunch then set off again.

Offensee

We knew we had to go up, out of the valley and over the watershed into the next one, but found ourselves following a steep bed of uphill scree which seemed to have been dumped by storm water earlier in the year. It reminded me of the high mountain valleys of Nepal. We lost the red and white signs for a bit but John managed to sniff them out and we were back on the main path, climbing steeply up (me hobbling), to cross the top and then descend a long but gentle forest road to Almsee. We stopped at the charming Deutsche Haus for tea and cake overlooking Almsee, the shallowest lake in Austria surrounded by towering mountain peaks.

Alamsee

Suitably fortified we proceeded down the road to our hotel (very posh) at Habernau.
A 32 kilometre day, but relatively civilised.

So my knee is dodgy. John is questioning whether or not it's safe for me to continue with the last 8 or 9 days of Alpine walking when I'm saying I can go up but not (fast) down. Have gone through the rest of the itinerary and it may not be as bad as what we've already done. Going to give it another day and then see.

Tuesday August 2nd Schafberg to Weisbenbach

What goes up must come down and after yesterday's huge ascent up to the top of Schafberg today's walk was all about the long descent down to Weisbenbach. Completely different sort of walk as well, particularly at the beginning, which was all ropes, ladders, slippery limestone and absolutely amazing views.

Above the clouds from Schafberg

Christine continues....
After sleeping nearly 10 hours, John woke me up by insisting I look out of the window. It was breathtaking. We were up in heaven with distant peaks from the earth below poking through the cloud blanket. What a place. Far better to stay the night and enjoy the early morning views before the crowds of earthlings came up on the little hobbit train from below.

From the viewing platform at Schafberg

We breakfasted with a crowd of enthusiastic Germans who quickly demolished the bread rolls and ham. Good job we got down to breakfast first.

How to get down from this huge peak? My instinct was completely wrong. Instead of going east (which would have taken me off the edge of a cliff) we went west and then an old sign through a small rock arch pointed into space and invited us down a steep zig zag path down the cliff face. Fortunately we were able to grab the wire ropes. I decided to let John go first. I had Prince's 'Controversy' on my brain and kept singing it out of nerves, much to John's annoyance. Once we got past the worst bit we could stride out but the limestone was slippery and you had to concentrate.

From Schafberg with Mondsee below

Underneath the Schafberg cliff

After a bit we got into trees and continued down through mixed beech and conifers until opening out onto a grassy plain hosting a well appointed hut. Time for coffee and strudel.

We then continued walking east, the sun now beating down and hot, following the side of a steep mountain stream before going up and onto a forest trail. Then down down down, feet hurting by now, lycra clad cyclists passing us but them struggling uphill in the blazing sun.

We got to the shore of Attersee around 1.30 pm then walked along a hot road to Weissenbach, a small nonentity of a place. Trouble then, as the Gasthaus Goldenlamm booked from England turned out to be in a Weissenbach in a totally different region of Austria.

Attersee

Luckily found somewhere else, and decamped to the lakeshore for the rest of the afternoon enjoying swimming in the lake.

Monday August 1st Faistenau to Schafberg

It's 10 past 8 and Christine is claiming that it's time to go to bed. Maybe we have overdone it a bit, particularly if the sighs, groans and moans are anything to go by. Suspect that the last three hours of the walk may have something to do with it as we climbed a straight 1400 metres up to Schafberg having already walked 20 kilometres from Faistenau. Poor Christine, just before we started what was one of the toughest climbs of the whole E4 walk, she managed to get stung by a bee in Winkl.

Tonight we're staying in the Hotel Schafbergspitz, not exactly a boutique hotel but a haus with an amazing location. It's right on top of a sharp ridge at nearly 1800 metres. I keep having to dash out onto the balcony to catch yet another amazing view as the sun, clouds and mist reconfigure to present new views of lakes below and mountains in the distance. One of the lessons learnt from this walk is to be more careful about choosing the precise location of the accommodation. Tonight we struck gold.

The weather has been OK today, good but far from perfect as still too humid.

Leaving Faistenau just after 8, onto the right route almost immediately, the first part of the day involved a 300 metre climb up over the ridge into the next valley and down to Fuschl. Stopped at a little lake on the way down before a more serious stop for mid morning strudel at Fuschl overlooking the lake.

Lake to the east of Faistenau

Fuschl

Took us ages to find the right route out of Fuschl but eventually we were walking along the valley which links to the next lake and St Gilgen. The walk gets a bit complex at this point as it struggles to keep you high above the town and avoid the drop down to the lake. Some interesting cliffs and lots of very young climbers were practicing their techniques high above us.

Looking down to St Gilgen

After all the ins and outs through the cliffs and the trees you still end up dropping down to Winkl. Perhaps just as well for us the top of the Schalberg was in the clouds but Christine's bee sting already meant that she had something else to think about other than the climb.

The climb itself was on a good path even if it was a bit unrelenting. Seemed to be the only people going up as everyone else had caught the steam train to the top and was walking down. Once you break through the tree line the top is still a 400 metre climb and the last bit, as usual was the steepest.

Climbing up to Schafberg

Started the climb at 2.45 and were drinking beer at 5.30 in the hotel. My GPS measured the climb at just over 1400 metres from Winkl to the top and we had a 15 minute stop for boot removal half way up. I suspect that for the day as a whole we climbed over 2,000 metres and walked about 25 kilometres. Much shorter downhill walk tomorrow and should have enough time for a swim in the lake.

Sun set from Schafberg

PS from Christine
I was standing under a tree in Winkl minding my own business when a bee dropped onto my eye. Unable to prevent the reflex action to brush it off, I goaded the thing into stinging me.