Saturday 9th April Casa Benali to Casa de Callado

What a dreadful day, joking yesterday about taking each day as it came and not really planning ahead came back to bit me big time. Just about everything went wrong.

Planning on this part of the GR7 is really difficult, there is absolutely no accommodation on the route, and I had changed my mind several times about what to do about it. One option I played with was walking through all the way to Cortes de Pallas but that would have been about 55 kilometres. Some itineraries split the route at Casa de Callado but the GR7 doesn't actually hit a metalled road until for another 6 kilometres making that the logical place to leave the trail and get a lift. I had worked that out during the planning but because I didn't check it last night I had forgotten and had Casa de Callado fixed in my end as the end of stage.

To add to the scope for confusion, Christine Durrant's husband John had agreed to pick us so we had to know exactly where we were to be able to arrange this.

The walk started well enough, it was sunny, but a breeze kept it from being too hot. It was also a bit hazy which perhaps suggested that it was going to get hotter. The first couple of hours involved a long but steady climb along a forest trail. a climb of just under 500 metres, and then a walk along the ridge before descending into the next valley.

Heading down towards Caroche

Caroche

In the distance was the mountain of Caroch, which at 1126 metres was our target. This involved going right down to the bottom of the valley and then climbing up another 500 metres to the pass near Caroch.

It was now getting really hot and after lunch in the shade we started the climb. I saw this line of bins in the distance and worked out that they were probably bee hives but thought nothing of it, was listening to an interesting set of Yale lectures about the history of Europe. All of a sudden I was being attacked by bees, never happened before and it took me a few seconds to work out what was happening, absolutely horrible. Dropped my bag, I tried to beat them of with my sticks and then my hat but they just kept coming. They were getting in my hair and flying straight at my face. I felt like running but where to and my bag was on the floor covered in bees. Eventually my mind cleared enough to remember that I did have a weapon, mosquito spray in my bag, and focusing on this rather than the bees, I was able to open the bag and find the spray and let rip. I sprayed everything with it and, apart from a really persistent bee that had got into my hat, they at last retreated.

It felt like I had been stung all over but it is was not as bad. Christine had some anti-sting cream and some anti-histamine and I'm sure that helped. I was a bit shaken up however and for the next hour or so started to concentrate on the location of the bees hives, there are lots, rather than the route. As it happens it seems there were two GR7 routes, one for cyclists around the Caroche and one for walkers almost over it. We took the former rather than the later.

By the time we got to Casa de Callodo we had probably walked an extra 5 kilometres and because I hadn't checked the map properly last night thought than John was meeting us here. The phone signal was very poor and it turned out he had gone to the wrong place anyway. We decided to stay put and wait for him to get to us which involved an 8 kilometre drive along the bit of the GR7 we should have walked to finish our stage.

Not a very nice trail for driving, although the views looked great, better than we had seen all day. I very much doubt that I will be able to persuade John and Christine to risk their car along the route again tomorrow so may have to sacrifice this bit of the trail. Feel really annoyed with myself and a bit fed up.

Postscript

Stayed in Hotel Murphimer in Ayora, a hotel which should have been condemned rather than given two stars. The discotechque looked so derelict it seemed impossible to think that it was going to be used. It was and although I didn't wake to the noise until about 3.30, John and Christine decided to leave and return home. Looks like I will walking on my own for next week until my own Christine turns up.

Wednesday 6th April Alcoi to Bocairent

What a disaster. To concede an early goal was unfortunate but predictable but then to loose a player after 15 minutes made the outcome painfully inevitable. The Tottenham/Real Madrid game was on terrestrial television in Spain so not much atmosphere in the bar. Most people seemed to be Barcelona fans who initally were gunning for a Spurs victory but who then politely lost interest as things deteriorated.

Anyway a great walk today was some consolation. 27 kilometres from Alcoi to Bocairent with 1,000 metres of climb. Another Natural Park to travel through, this time the Sierra de Mariola.

The first highlight was a wonderful gorge, the Barranc de Cinc, immediately outside Alcoi, huge sandstone cliffs which got tighter and tighter leaving an exit at the end which was on a few feet across. It was so close to the town that sound of the police sirens echoed around it.

Gorge to the west of Alcoi

After that it's a long steady walk up to the Montcabrer, which at 1390 metres, is the third highest mountain in Valencia. The scenery was fantastic, classic limestone, and the views were amazing both back towards Alcoi and across the huge valley to the sea. If the weather had been a bit clearer than apparently the sea is visible. The ridge walk along the side of Moncabrer was perhaps the most dramatic bit of the E4 so far although the pictures don't do it justice.

Climbing up to Montcabrer

View from Montcabrer - in the distance the sea

Path running to the north of Montcabrer

The rest of the walk couldn't compete with the first third but it was still really good, nearly all of through pine although with the occasional patch of holm oak. Got a glimpse of a red squirrel and then spent ages trying to find it only to discover that it had been nonchalantly watching me all the time perched right on top of old telegraph pole.

Red Squirrel

Borcairent looks like another ancient town crowded around a hill, this time with a church rather than a castle as a focal point. Staying in a Casa Rural right in the middle, very nice but I couldn't figure out how get the sound system in then shower working, I kid you not.

Bocairent

So great walk, perfect cure for a miserable evening last night. Anyway we are only 4 goals down, still everything to play for next week.

Postscript

Bocairent is a really beautiful place, lots of tall terraced houses and little squares all surrounding the church and it's oversized tower. Another to add to the list of places I've seen where I really need to come back and have another look.

Sunday 3rd April Pinosa to Elba

Today's walk was 26 kilometres in overcast, warm and humid conditions, often on roads through countryside which was not very memorable I'm afraid. Not exactly inspirational.

The presence of British immigrants in Spain, evident for the first time yesterday on the approach to Pinosa, becomes increasingly apparent towards Elba. Two characteristics seem to distinguish them from the Spanish: firstly a love of gardens, which are often huge; and, secondly a willingness to pour money into old rotting buildings. There are huge numbers of wonderful old farmsteads all ready for the Grand Design treatment and as you get closer to the bits of Spain where the British congregate than these buildings start to get rescued.

Abandoned "finca"

Apart from the weather being a bit more overcast it was a very similar walk to yesterday's, a gentle climb up out of Pinosa, a short descent and a walk across a wide cultivated valley, another gentle climb and then a long descent into Elba.

At the beginning of the walk across the valley you go through the pretty village of Casas del Senyor. Particularly interesting were the chimneys which emerged at street level from the houses in the terrace below and, later on, the beautiful aqueduct, which I guess dates back to the time of Moors.

Walking on the roof

Moorish Aquaduct in Casas del Senyor 

This dry landscape gets particularly ugly as you approach towns and was especially ugly during the final walk to Elba. The abandoned terraced fields, extensive fly tipping and the municipal tip made everything look completely unloved. Amongst all this, and with an impressive gate, sat Elba's cemetery, already big but with scope for significant expansion.

Huge gate to the crematorium near Elba

Elba by the way is the largest town I have been to so far, a population of over 45,000, and the Spanish centre for the manufacture of shoes.

With a Spanish resident as a walking companion and I'm getting my eye in for signs of the recession. I now understand the difference between the "for sale" sign for property which is being sold in the standard way and a property which has been repossessed by the banks and is subject to a forced sale. You can get very good financing terms with a forced sale. If I needed any further evidence of the immediacy of the recession I got it when I arrived at the hotel which had been booked only a few days ago but had now closed.

Signs of collapsed housing market everywhere

Stage 4 – Valencia (1) - Walking through Alicante and Valencia

The autonomous community of Valencia (autonomous community in Spain is the next level down from the nation state) runs up the central eastern seaboard with 518 kms of coastline.  The autonomous community, in turn, is made up of three provinces, Alicante, Valencia and Castellon (there is also a very important city, Valencia, which is different to both the province and the community). 

GR7 through Valencia

Valencia is essentially mountainous with a thin coastal plain.  The mountains, although not as high as those in Andalusia, are part of same range.  The route of the GR7/E4 runs south to north in the mountains, above the coastal plain and paralleling the coast line for about 600 kms.  

My Stage 4 takes 16 days and passes through the provinces of Alicante and Valencia.  I have used an itinerary from a web site http://www.racodelom.es/ which helpfully plots the route and gives the distances and times involved in getting from place to place.  The route travels through what looks like sparsely populated attractive countryside.  There are none of the larger historic towns which characterised the walk through Andalusia and Murcia.  

The end of the walk through Murcia and the start of the walk in Valencia (in the province of Alicante) will be at Pinoso.  Pinoso is a small town (7,000 pop) about 40 minutes from the Alicante airport.  It has a growing ex-pat population as the coast in Alicante is so highly developed.  Should be places to stay.

Day 1 involves a 28 km walk to Elda which should take just over 6 hours via Encebras, Casa del Senor, and Madara, all small villages. The route looks like a fairly easy trail through an agricultural landscape.  Elda is a significant town with a population of 55,000.  It does not however have a very good web profile – but it is the second most important place in Spain for shoes.    Lots of places to stay.

Day 2 is a 22 km walk to Castalla.  North, north-east of Elda the scenery and points of interest seem to improve, more castles and bigger mountains.  Castalla itself is a small town (pop 7,000), an 11^th C walled castle and some accommodation.  

Day 3 is a 29 km walk to Alcoi.  It looks like a nice walk taking your through the Parque Natural del Carrascal de la Font Roja.  Alcoi is a large industrial town and the route doesn’t actually go into it.  There should be plenty of places to stay.

Day 4 is another 29 km walk to the town of Bocairent again taking you through a park (Parque Natural de la Sierra Mariola).  Bocairent is small but with bed and breakfast accommodation.

Parque Natural de la Sierra Mariola

Day 5 involves a 26 km walk to Vallada (just off the GR7 – Vallada.es).  Accommodation is now starting to get more difficult and I’m not sure if the accommodation referenced on the town’s web site is for overnight stays.

From here until Cortes de Pallas it’s really difficult to find places to stay and consequently finalise the stop-overs.  The route takes you over a large mountainous plateau known as the Caroig Massif (lots of cave paintings) and while I think there is accommodation (sometimes on campsites with huts) pinning it down is not straightforward.

Day 6 looks like a 29 km walk to Benali which I think is actually a farmstead with some holiday lets and possibly overnight accommodation.  If that works Day 7 is then a 25 km walk to somewhere near Collado de Caroche.  There is definitely accommodation in the area, including a campsite which should have huts, but again it’s difficult to tell whether this includes overnight accommodation.

Cortes de Pallas

Day 8 is then a 30 km walk to Cortes de Pallas which definitely does has accommodation.  The walking is more of the same limestone countryside with dramatic gorges and dry valleys.  The whole area is important for power generation with reservoirs, hydro and nuclear power generation facilities.

Day 9 involves a 30 km walk to Pocicico Valentin via Venta Gaeta.  This looks like an amazing walk with a longer option at the end if you want to stay in a refugio.  The hostel “Casa del Rio Mijares” looks excellent and so I don’t think I’ll extend the walk.

Accommodation looks difficult for day 10.  There might be some at El Rebollar, which would then involve an 18 km walk.  If not it might be necessary to catch a bus to Requena, where accommodation is plentiful, and return to El Rebollar next day.  Alternatively there might be some accommodation further along the trail (although haven’t found it yet).

Accommodation at the end of a 30 km Day 11 is also uncertain.  There are a number of small villages in the right place (Villar de los Olmos and Villar de Tejas) but none are advertising accommodation.  Directly on the route is Refugio las Lomos but I suspect this is a literally unmanned refuge.

Assuming I stay somewhere near the Refugio las Lomos than the next day is a 30 kms walk to Benageber where there definitely is accommodation.

Day 13 involves a 17 km walk to Chelva which, with a population of 2,000 people, is a metropolis by recent standards.  There is accommodation and Chelva looks like an attractive town.

Day 14 is a 28 km walk to Andilla via the village of Alcotas.  Small village but with some accommodation

Day 15, the final day in the province of Valencia involves a 23 km walk to Bejis.  Although there is no reference to accommodation on the village website I’m optimistic!