Saturday 26th Santiago de la Espada to Puebla de Don Fadrique

The routing of today's walk is, I suspect, driven by administrative necessity. Having established northern variant to the GR7 it somehow has to be joined back up with main route and, and because in Spain everything is done at a regional level, in Andalucia. The simplest way to do this is to send the route down the road and, apart from the first six kilometres, this is exactly what's been done. The road walk was 34 kilometres, making the total distance somewhere near 40. I don't think whoever put the line on the map actually expected anyone to walk it, there are no signs or markings. All this seems a shame as the walking potentially looks great and a bit of effort could have produced a good route.

Anyway having had a great breakfast things started to go wrong. I had devised a GPS route from dodgy maps and the Guide (no-one having published a route for this stretch) and it was just not quite right. The Guide was confusing so it took me an hour to do the first 2 kilometres. If only it had said, "make for the mint condition white Renault 4 stuck on top of the hill", I would have got there in no time. Must be at least 30 years old, not a spot of rust on it and if your interested it's not going anywhere.

The highlight of the whole walk was the Cortijo de las Cuevas, an abandoned village of houses built into the cliff on one side of a stunning little gorge. One house might have been occupied judging by the two blue stripped deck chairs outside it but it's hard to be certain. Busy taking pictures of this amazing place when behind me I became aware, at very close proximity, of the rarest of things, a Spanish dog not barking. He wanted to abandon the village as well and come with me. Following at a distance of about 10 feet he was soon joined by his best mates, two pigs with a very distinct appearance.

Cortijo de las Cuevas

A nice non barking dog

Rare breeds

Actually the pigs gave up after a few minutes but a dog is a friend for life and he was coming. Even when I declined to wade across the raging Rio Zumeta, as recommended by the Guide, and instead climbed up steeply along the side of the gorge to get to the road he followed. Eventually I had to explain that I lived in a flat and that he wouldn't be happy in central London and amazingly not only was this a none barking Spanish dog, he understood English. I felt really bad when he turned and left.

After that I hit the road looking for short cuts and off-road options whenever I could. The best one came about 4 kilometres after a very flash looking but empty Hotel. Following a trail marked on my map, possibly the old road, I went on a 5 kilometre detour before joining the road again. It was a really nice walk, much higher than the road and with great views. I also managed to find a shorter 2 kilometres detour a little bit further on and these variations seem to prove that a better route could be found.

Typical endless stretch of road

Of course the third effort ended in near disaster when I found the gently slopping, wooded and sandy stretch I was crossing actually had deep ravines in it that were incredibly difficult to cross.

Eventually Puebla de Don Fadrique became visible, still some way of, and then on the west a perfectly shaped snow covered mountain, a mini Kilomanjaro, came into view. I might have seen this in the distance yesterday and I'm still trying to work out which one it is. It's a poor picture the sun was in the wrong place but maybe it's enough for Juan to identify it.

Cerro del Calar

Anyway, arrived after 9 hours of virtually non-stop walking and after a couple of beers and a bath the feet feel fine.

Friday March 25th Pontones to Santiago de la Espada

Second to last day in Andalucia so approaching a big milestone. After three quite tough days, today's walk was much shorter and getting to the Hotel San Francisco at about 2 o'clock I'm trying to get as much time of my feet as possible. The hotel does have Wi-Fi but so far no Internet so will have to see if the growing back log of blogs get published.

The walk was about 17 kilometres and a nice one, the weather has improved since yesterday and, although not hot, there was no need to get the waterproofs out.

Continuing on from yesterday the first two thirds of today's walk was through what I'd regard as extreme limestone country. Hardly any soil, very dry looking and sparse in terms of trees. It's also high up and there is still a lot of snow about. Making a living here looks tough with sheep the only agricultural product. Not sure why but, compared to sheep in the UK, sheep in this part of Spain really smell, a different smell but strong in the way goats smell.

Sheep and more sheep around Pontones

The vast majority of the walk was off road and along a path that by and large not difficult to follow. Leaving the village,

Pontones

and after a short stretch along a road, you follow a shallow valley gently up heading east and then south until you eventually hit the road to Poyotello. The countryside is not spectacular in the way it has been for the last days but it is very pleasant. You follow the road south and after crossing a sort of pass, and the highest point of the day, head down, cross a main road for the last part of the walk. The countryside is now wide-open, almost like the Yorkshire Dales, except in the distance you can just see, for the second time on this trip, the snow covered tops of the Sierra Nevadas.

Open dry limestone countryside above Pontones

Having crossed a small ridge just beyond the road, descended in open country for about 500 metres, the route then takes you alongside a little stream which gradually, over the next 5 kilometres turns into a full blooded gorge. If you watch what your doing you will spot where the GR route divides (near the little dam apparently) and follow the route into Santiago de la Espada. Alternatively you will miss the turn, do what I did, and end up on the wrong side of the Rio Zumeta, and then have to walk back up the road for a kilometre or so to get to where you want to be.

Valley down to Santiago de la Espada

Talking of roads I suspect, almost as a penance for the great walking of the last four days, that road walking is going to be standard for the next couple of days or so. Even the Cicerone guide suggests hitching at lift for the last 15 kilometres of tomorrow's 34 kilometre walk. That of course would be cheating and I couldn't possibly do it.

Thursday March 24th Cotos-Rios to Pontones

Big 34 kilometres walk with nearly 1200 metres of climb so feeling a bit knackered. The really frustrating thing is that this is the second night in a row that I have not been able to access the internet. Would really like to know what the birds were I was seeing yesterday, are wild boar dangerous and what was this cat like thing I saw today was.

Anyway it was a great walk, which means four really good days walking through the Cazorla Natural Park and still a bit more to go. If anything today's walk was the wildest, partly because of the weather which, at the top, was windy, wet and misty, and partly because the walk just felt more remote. For the fourth day I have had the Park to myself.

Leaving Cotos-Rios you walk along banks the Rio Gaudalaquiver for about 2 kilometres. There are some huge campsites all them empty at the moment which probably explains why everything is so quite. You follow a forest track graded for vehicles for about 10 kilometre next to the Rio Borosa. Overshadowing the walk, on your south side, is the distinctive Pedra del Mulon.

Piedra del Mulon

Eventually the track runs out, just before the end of the gorge which, at this point is particularly dramatic. Today the clouds were hanging over the top, but it was still very impressive.

Cordillera de las Banderillas

Leaving the track graded for vehicles your then on a really nice trail and into the best part of the walk. The first stage involved quite a stiff climb to the first pass. It was wet, I wasn't moving very quickly, and it was at this point I experienced my first bit of novel wild-life. Got a picture and I have to say it looks a bit like a squirrel albeit that the colouring is not one the same as any I've seen before, certainly not a grey squirrel and not as red as a red squirrel.

Red Squirrel?

After the pass you continue to climb and as it gets higher and more predominantly limestone the trees become sparse. Eventually the path levels out and you cross an ancient meadow with an old broken down cottage. Ahead I can see some odd coloured rocks, which attract my attention because of their colour, and which as I get closer, shoot off in various directions up the hill. I've disturbed 20 or 30 deer which had been grazing by a stream. Looking at the picture I think there are two types, one classic bambi, the other browner and a bit chunkier.

Wild goats and deer near La Hoya de Albardia

A couple of hundred yards further on I have my second lunch by some ruined houses, La Hoya de Albardia. You can still work out how big the rooms are and how intimate it must been not just for the inhabitants of each house but for the whole village.

La Hoya de Albardia

After another 30 minutes, and just beyond what I think was the highest part of the walk, I see my most intriguing bit of wild-life. At first glance I thought I was seeing the back of a marmot, it was the same colour, but it was bigger. It was at the bottom of a near vertical array of limestone boulders about 30 metres high and about 60 metres away. It then ran up the boulders and I could see that it was a cat, agile like a fox and with a big fox like tail, but with a much thicker, stronger neck and broader head. It was definitely a cat but much bigger than any tabby I have ever seen. I did get a really good view of it but not a picture I'm afraid, it was raining and my camera was inside my waterproofs.

So walking through the Cazorla Natural Park has been as good as a safari although without a guide I have no real idea what I have seen. Perhaps Juan will be able to help.

For Christine's benefit a picture of a miniature daffodil and some pine trees covered in an algae type thing - the latter would normally generate about two days of discussion.

Miniature Daffodil

Algae cover pine trees on the way down to Pontones

Stayed at the Hotel-Restaurante Ruta del Segura which was very pleasant.

Wednesday March 23rd Vadillo de Castril to Cotos-Rios

Got a lift from the hotel owner in Cazorla to Vadillo de Castril and set of, at 8.30 on the 38 kilometre walk to Cotos-Rios, another excellent walk through the Sierra de Cazorla Natural Park.

The Park is a designated UNESCO reserve and is particularly important for its ancient pine forest and wildlife including mammals and birds. After only a hundred metres or so along the trail it became apparent that this wasn't necessarily a day for listening to the iPod when I disturbed a huge eagle like bird which was in one of the tall pine and then, seconds later, saw a deer run across the track.

At Linarejos, empty at the moment but with facilities for visitors, there was a group of four animals which I guess could have been deer or Spanish Ibex.

Spanish Ibex?

The highlight of the walk came as I approached a building marked on the map as the Casa Forestal de Roblehondo. The path was high on the side of a gorge and there must have at least fifteen, Griffon Vultures I guess, flying both above me and below me. Desperately trying to get a picture I was looking up when something caught my eye just of the trail above me and about fifteen metres away. It was a group of wild boar, three or four adults but also some infants. One of the adults stopped for a second and starred at me but then turned and shot off. It was a magic if slightly scary moment. I tried to take a picture but looking at the result this evening couldn't find the wild boar.

Griffin Vultures in the Cazorla Natural Park

It was a great walk along an easy forest trail which generally contoured along the side of the valley. The weather was cloudy and cold in the morning but got better. Had the Park completely to myself and didn't see anyone until I got within a couple of kilometres of Cotos-Rios. The last part of the walk was along the side of the Rio Borosa.

Limestone Cliffs

Rio Borosa

Cotos-Rios was actually built specifically for people who used to live in the Park and last night I thought I had found a hotel there and even booked a room in it. When I got there no-one had heard of it (although that could have been my pronunciation) and there was definitely no hotel in Cotos-Rios itself. Ended getting a flat in the Los Villares Apartamentos, have got the central heating on and have been busy washing walking socks.

Tuesday March 22nd Cazorla to Vadillo de Castril

Definitely an odd day today, the first day since a week last Saturday that I've been on my own. Christine caught the 7 o'clock bus back to Granada this morning. Feels strange and a bit like I'm starting again, two of you spread the load, and in particular there is now only one person to maintain the motivation. Amongst other things Christine checked my appalling grammar so I'm afraid as far as this blog is concerned it's back to business as usual.

The walk was also a slightly strange one as it involved going to Vadillo de Castril and then walking back again. This is because I decided that the original plan, to walk all the way to Cotos-Rios was just too far and insane. According to the Cicerone guide it would have taken 12.5 hours and there is only just that amount of daylight at the moment. The Hotel owner here in Cazorla (at the Hotel Guadalquiver) will take me to Vadillo de Castril in the morning (for a chunky fee) and then I'll walk onto Cotos-Rios. By the way there is accommodation later in the season at Vadillo de Castril and there is also a fabulous looking Parador Hotel nearby so you could engineer at alternative plan.

Actually the walking does justify a bit more time, it is really excellent in the Sierra Cazorla Natural Park. Sounds a bit odd but the best thing about today was the path itself. It was on a really well preserved trail, built I guess for mules and too small for vehicle access of any sort. Not steep but occasionally clinging to the side of some very impressive cliffs it contoured along before crossing a couple of passes and then heading down to Vadillo de Castril.

Ancient mule paths out from Cazorla

On the way up from Cazorla you pass the Ermita de la Virgen de la Cabeza, which overlooks the town from the north, and further on you get great views down on yet another Moorish Castle, the Castillo de la Ireula.

Looking down on the Castillo de la Ireula

The weather was good, a lot colder than the last two days but none of forecast rain and the views were great. By and large you're high up and looking north-west down on a huge expanse of olive trees. Apart from olive trees, the walk reminded me a little bit of the Simien Mountains which also sit high above a plain. At the highest pass, which is 1369 metres, you can look south to snow flecked mountains of the Lomos de Los Castellones.

View across the see of olive trees

Turning around and going back again is definitely not in the spirit of through walking and I was still 45 minutes of Vadillo de Castril when decided that I had had enough. By the time I got back to Cazorla I had walked for 8 hours, walked 26 kilometres and climbed 1200 metres so duty done I think.

Monday March 21st Quesada to Cazorla

After yesterday's walk through the cauldron of olive trees we deserved a better walk, Christine's last walk in Andalucia, and today we got it. Although only 18 kilometres today's walk had everything and the next few days walking also look really interesting.

Quesada

Had a quick look at Quesada on the way out this morning and it looks like another nice hill top town. The target however was the Sierra de Cazorla Natural Park

Entering the Park

and to get to it involved a steady walk, largely on a road, up and out of the valley. We were able to chop a lot of the zig-zags by taking a more vertical line up through the olive groves and as we did so the views got bigger. Initially we could just see back to Quesada but eventually, and through the haze, we saw Jodar and the snow covered tops of the Sierra Maginas.

Once inside the park and off the road, the scenery became immense with the trail contouring beneath huge and sheer 1000 metre limestone crags. The vegetation was also different and included types of pine we hadn't seen before and some beautiful miniature irises. The park is supposed to be full of wildlife but today we were only treated to Griffon Vultures which put on a great display.

Dwarf Iris

The walk was rich in architectural remains which included the Ermita de Monta Sion and the Castillo de las Cinco Esquinas both of which were positioned on the edge of the massif with great views across the plain.

Spectacular limestone scenery in the Cazorla Natural Park

Castillo de Cinco Esquinas

In reality the buildings along the walk were just tasters for Cazorla itself which is stunning. The location is set against an amphitheater of huge cliffs and crowned by the huge Moorish Castillo de la Yedra which towers above the town. The centre has a lovely mix of little squares, tiny streets and ancient churches.

Cazorla Castle

I was going to press on tomorrow to Coto Rios but have concluded that a 12 hour march through such lovely scenery is madness and instead have decided to have two nights in Cazorla, splitting the 12 hour walk into two. Will give me time to adjust to being without Christine.

Frustratingly Cazorla is without Internet, down for the whole town, which seems a little bizarre particularly as I couldn't get access in Quesada either.

Sunday March 20th Jodar to Quesada

As usual after a spell in the bar of a nice friendly hotel, this time the Hotel Sierra de Quesada, it is easy to forget that today's walk was not actually all that nice. If I wasn't trying to complete the E4 from Tarifa to Budapest than this is a day's walking I would try and avoid.

The purpose of the walk is really to get you across the wide valley between the Sierra Magina and the Sierra de Cazorla. This is a 40 kilometre gap and today was a hot day to be walking across 36km of it. Would rather not imagine what it would be like to do this in mid summer.

Firstly we probably should have stayed in the other of Jodar's two hotels if we wanted to minimise our walking time. The Hotel Cuidad de Jodar adds at least 2 kilometres and is definitely at the most unattractive end of town. The older part of Jodar is at the north end and close to the exit for the E4.

The nice bit of Jodar

Either way it's 15 kilometres of road walking before you get onto something which is marginally kinder on the feet. You do get some nice views back to Jodar and the Sierra Magina Massif in the background but it's a big price to pay for all that foot pounding. There were of course no E4/GR signs and we were guided by the GPS track and the Cicerone Guide but we did come across a one off sign in a field of olives that suggested a cross country route from Jodar Who knows we may be doing the E4 an injustice but I somehow doubt it.

The secret E4

By the time you get to leave the road, at the bridge over the Rio Guadiana Menor, you will probably be like us and running on half empty. Perhaps we should have tried harder to escape the sun but we couldn't really find anywhere in the olive ridden landscape (no trees), so after a short break we just plodded on. The path started to climb and the scenery was definitely more interesting, at last becoming too dry even for the olive trees, but even this improvement couldn't change the fact that this was a hot and fairly unpleasant walk.

Wide open spaces

Olives everywhere

It's a long shallow valley running from the village of Hornos de Peal to Quesada and at one point you can choose between a slightly more shady route on a road from Toya and the E4. By then the sun had got to us and we stayed on the E4. Painfully you don't get to see Quesada until the last kilometre and you think you're never going to get there. It is however another attractive town and, after two beers in such a nice place, you can forgive anything. However if you're not on the same mad adventure as me then get a taxi, a bus or anything to the bridge at the Rio Guadiana Menor and then have a nice walk.

Quesada

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