Alhama de Granada to Jayena

10 hours walking today, just a bit too far, particularly as the countryside got a little bit boring in the middle, endless fields of olive and almond trees. It was made worse by some confusion after lunch when we seemed to end up with three different versions of the route: my GPS trail, the Cicerone Guide and the signs on the ground. Would have gone with the signs on the ground but they also conspired to confuse.

We knew we had to get away early so left the hotel at eight. Breakfast was not available until 10 so no breakfast. Actually it was only just light, fairly cold and the sun didn't get over the mountain until about 9.15am.

One of great things about October walking in this part of Spain is the light. The sun stays low until about 11 and is low again at about 3.30 and the softer light on the autumn colours of the landscape, lots of ochre, is just wonderful. The particular treat walking up the valley were the poplar plantations. Not sure why poplar is such an important tree in these parts, they are even irrigated, but at this time of year the leaves are a golden yellow and spectacular just before dawn.

Leaving Alhama de Granada

After about 5 kilometres you climb out of the shallow valley, with its poplars, and for a time you get above the tomato plantations and you're walking through autumn stubble. Great views south with the Sierra de Almijara, a line of mountains which get to over 2,000 metres.

Sierra de Jatar

I guess October is a serious time for hunting and we kept coming across men with dogs and guns - not quite sure what they are trying to kill, but we didn't hang about to ask.

By about 11.30am it was starting to get hot, the countryside was dominated by almond and olive trees and the dust on the trails was beginning to kick up. They almonds and olives went on and on. The trails by the way are all used by vehicles of one description or another and every so often one would come past and coat us with dust.

Approaching Arenas del Rey

So after what felt like quite a trudge - a morning walk of 21 kilometres - we made it to Arenas de Rey which sits at the southern end of a huge reservoir. Completely destroyed by an earthquake in 1884 the village is not very attractive but we were looking forward to a break and lunch. We found a bar, they were very friendly but the food was grim and annoyingly expensive.

Not set up as we anticipated we set of into the hot afternoon sun and after about half an hour we following a trail south past endless huge canvas greenhouses housing row upon row of cherry tomatoes. The signs eventually petered out and we seemed to be a long way off my GPS trail. Christine refused to go back down cherry tomato alley so we decided to bushwhack our way up over a ridge to a point close to where the GPS told us we should be. This is always a risky strategy and sure enough the descent on the other side of the ridge was very steep and overgrown with the thorniest and prickliest plants imaginable. I went ahead leaving Christine to disturb a family of wild boar who were deep in the undergrowth hiding from men with guns and dogs.

Got down the ridge the other side and found some more GR7 E4 signs, still in the wrong place according to both the guide and GPS route and worse still not taking us to Jayena. We deciding to ignore the signs and head for the old resin factory which we knew was on the right route. I think we must have wandered along a GR7 variant.

La Resinara is a melancholy reminder or the resin industry which flourished locally until major forest fires 30 years ago. From there the path improved, uphill on a winding track through pines then along some beautiful forest drives alongside a tiny airstrip where a little Fokker was showing off it's take offs and landings while we walked past.

By this time the harsh sun had disappeared, the autumn light had returned and magically the scenery improved. We were tired but soon the path started descending and we caught a glimpse of Jayena encouragingly near, just 2k away. We finally got to Jayena at about 6.30pm which was actually on schedule despite the bushwhacking.

Evening above Jayena

Down to Jayena

In the bar for about 7.30, had the most amazing tapas followed by a large plate of rabbit stew. Everybody was watching a programme on the television which had men with guns and high tech bows and arrows roaming around the Canadian tundra shooting Caribou and Bares - not nice.

Ventas de Zafarraya to Alhama de Granada

Back in Spain and the memories of two months walking through the country in March and April come flooding back. Little things which had disappeared into the back of my mind pop up like old friends - the way everyone leaves tapas rubbish on the floor in the bars, the never ending television, and totally weird eating times.

Actually the weird eating times bit us slightly when we got to Ventas de Zafarraya (taxi pre-booked from Malaga airport). Arrived at the little bar/hotel Aqui Te Quiero Ver at about 5.30pm only to discover they had just finished doing food for the day and there was nowhere to eat in the village in the evening. They didn't do breakfast either. We stocked up with food from the local shop, so not the end of the world.

More annoying was the discovery that I had mistaken a white plastic object in my draw at home for an adapter when it wasn't. Real crisis - without an adapter had nothing to recharge my iPhone so no GPS, no blogging and no books - down in the dumps and fed up with walking before the walk had even started.

Getting going in the morning was quite tough as well. Doesn't get light until 8 am, no coffee, the cloud was low and it was quite chilly. Conserving the remaining battery on the phone for emergencies we were dependent on the Cicerone guide for instructions and to be honest the instructions are a bit dodgy around here.

The initial bit of the walk underneath the Morron de la Cuna is dramatic but the trail was unmarked and it wasn't we had gone well past the village of Espino that we saw the first red and white E4 / GR7 sign. Seemed to confirm that the guide was wrong.

Just along from Ventas de Zafarraya

We followed a dusty unmetalled road through dry hilly land growing fields of vegetables: beef tomatoes, runner beans, red peppers. The track took us past vegetable packing warehouses where huge lorries filled up and took the produce around Europe. Apart from that, the track was quite dull. It was described in the Cicerone guide as an old cattle drove road but I think that is romanticism getting the better of common sense - ain't no cattle round here guv.

We found a roadside restaurant at Arroya de la Madre and had a sandwich. By now it was hot outside. The scenery improved as we headed cross country again but there were now a lot of sight-seers driving up and down the so called drove road kicking up dust, making Christine very cross. Eventually we hit a reservoir and walked to the other side where we checked into El Ventorro, a famous 17th century 'venta' and merchants buildings turned into a nice hotel with some of the rooms built into the caves in the rock behind. We treated ourselves to cafe con leche, first caffeine of the day, and our nagging headaches immediately lifted.

Dropped our bags in the room and struggled to decide whether to walk down the valley to visit Alhama de Granada or stay in the hotel and try out its own special moorish baths. No swimming costumes so down to Alhama and what a treat, the highlight of the day, beautiful gorge with the town perched high on the cliff at the end of it. It's the hill top towns that make walking in Spain so special. A leisurely tour around the town and then a walk back to the Hotel for a nice late dinner.

Alhama de Granada

The church in Alhama de Granada

Gorge to the south of Alhama de Granada

Great day, the only evening the hotel does evening meals is Saturday and tonight is Saturday and, better still, the guy behind the bar found us an English adaptor. Someone is smiling on us.

Stage 1 - Tarifa to Villanueva del Rosario

I published a whole series of stage plans before I started the E4 and these attracted some really helpful comments.  What I'm now tediously doing is rewriting all of those blogs informed by the actual trip.  Will try to be as candid as possible - there are parts of the E4 which are not so nice.

The logic behind "Stage 1" is that it takes you to the point where the GR7 splits into a northern and southern option.  As it happens the split takes place at Villanueva del Cauche but to make my itinerary work for me I went slightly beyond that point.

The month leading up to starting the walk, by the way, was terrible. I was committed to the walk but had massive reservations. Wasn't sleeping and had an almost overwhelming feeling that I was about to fall flat on my face and make a complete fool of myself. Getting to Spain and starting the walk was just a wonderful release, the doubts disappeared and for the first few weeks I was powered by euphoria.

Tarifa is the perfect place to start the walk, it feels like and is  the edge of Europe. It is also very windy (apparently the wind is virtually non-stop) and the views across narrow Straits of Gibraltar to the Africa are sharp and clear. Would have been nice to have stopped for the night in Tarifa but instead I trudged along the beach and shortened what would otherwise have been a 41.5 next day walk to Los Barrios. I stayed at the Hotel Artevida which was fine but expensive compared to most of my accommodation in Spain.

Cork Oak Grove

The first full day's walking through the Los Alcornocales Natural Park with its cork oak forests was nice rather than amazing.  Lots of wind turbines along the route as well as a large reservoir but the views back to Tarifa and across the narrow straights to Africa were wonderful.  Horrible and painful walk along a road to finish the day in Los Barrios.  Stayed at the Hotel Real in which was cheap, simple and good fun.

The 34 kilometre walk to Castillo de Castellar is a poor one - long walk past a huge rubbish dump, a walk down a quite road, and then a walk along a cycle path alongside a busy road before you finally get off road just before the finish. A shame because Castillo de Castellar, a wonderful hill top town, is a great place to finish the day. Stayed in an absolutely amazing hotel, part of the castle itself.

After two big days the third day was a short 15 kilometres walk to Jimena de la Frontera, through pleasant if not particularly exciting countryside. You spend quite a bit of time walking alongside a famous (apparently) wide gauge railway line. I really liked Jimena de la Frontera and you can see why a lot of ex-UK residents have decided to live there. I managed to stay in another really lovely hotel, the Casa Henrietta, brightly decorated with real Andalucian style.

After Jimena de la Frontera the countryside really starts to match the towns for interest. After an initial climb up to about 800 metres your into fairly open moorland with great views all the way back to Gibraltar. It's a tough 40 kilometre walk and you stay high all the way until the final descent into Ubrique, another recently interesting and ancient town rammed up against huge cliffs. Didn't stay in a hotel in Ubrique, was the guest of the local tourist board, but there are hotels in the town or nearby. The Hotel Ocurris is one which seems to attract recommendations.

On the next day I walked all the way to Ronda but this is fabulous countryside and anyone sensible would have stopped along the way. Stopping options with accommodation include Villaluenga del Rosario (bit close to Ubrique) or Montejaque (bit close to Ronda). Either way this is a wonderful stretch. Highlights included the march up the Roman road (everything still there) to Benacoaz; the walk through the valley to the pretty village of Villaluenga del Rosario (nestling under the Navazo Alto) or the walk through the limestone scenery of Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park. If you do decide to walk all the way to Ronda, like I did, you'll find the walk after Montejaque painfully long.

The Stunning Sierra de Grazelema

I only stayed one night at Ronda, which is probably a capital offence for people who love Spain. It is a lovely town, an important tourist destination and has lots of places to stay.

The next day's walk was another poor one, difficult to find the route between Ronda and Arriate and a lot of road walking between Arriate and Cuevas del Becerro.  Cuevas del Becerro is slightly away from the route but there is no accommodation at Serrato which would otherwise have been a good place to stop.  Had a nice afternoon in Cuevas del Becerro, there was a fiesta, but not much of a draw otherwise.

The following walk to El Chorro is much nicer although a bit tougher than I had anticipated.  Lovely open arable countryside with long views.  Ardales, half way along, is another interesting looking town (the walk takes you over a Roman bridge) with accommodation if you want to really short day.  The second half of the walk is a lot tougher, a nice ridge walk and then a climb up to the spectacular reservoir above El Chorro and a really steep climb down.  I stayed in a camp site with huts but there is other accommodation available.

El Chorro

The walk to Antequera via the small town of Valle de Abdalajis is a pleasant one but with a nasty bit of road walking in the middle.  Valle de Abdalajis has accommodation and if you wanted to break the walk up with a day off than there is enough to see in Antequera famous for its ancient bronze age tombs.  Lots of accommodation but I stayed in the Hotel Colon which was OK.

The last day of this stage was a really wet one for me which was a shame because it meant I missed the views of the El Torcal peak in the natural park to the south of the route which has the same name.  Not a bad walk but you do have to work you way underneath the motorway and there is a bit of associated road walking before you eventually get to Villanueva del Rosario.  Stayed in the Hotel Venta Las Delicias which was cheap, cheerful and good fun.

Most people would sensibly walk section of the GR7 at a slower pace and there are enough accommodation options to do things differently to the way I did it.  Perhaps the key issue is whether or not to stay at Ronda.  If you have been there before than it would make sense to stay at Montejaque, then Arriate, then Ardales, Valle de Adbalajis and then Antequera.  Another day to the itinerary but perhaps more sensible.

If your interested in what it felt like at the time please have a look at the daily diary entries.

Tarifa to Los Barrios
Los Barrios to Castillo de Castellar
Castillo de Castellar to Jimena de la Frontera
Jimena de la Frontera to Ubrique
Ubrique to Ronda
Ronda to Cuevas del Becerro
Cuevas del Becerro to El Chorro
El Chorro to Antequera
Antequera to Villanueva del Rosario

Back to Spain, back to Andalucia

Still working out which bits of the E4 I liked the best but certainly loved walking in Spain and Andalucia in particular. When I walked there in March I had to choose between the southern and northern variants of the GR7 and I have no idea whether my decision to walk along the northern route was the right one. Any excuse to go back to Spain I’m going with Christine in October to walk the southern variant and find out how it compares with what I have done already.

We haven’t got enough time to do the whole variant so we’re going to start at Ventas de Zafarraya and walk through to La Calahorra, about 230 kilometres. First days walking will be on the 15th of October and we will be walking for 9 days. I think you need at least 15 days to do the whole route.

For second half of the walk we are going to be joined by Juan Holdago. Met Juan last year on my second day out of Tarifa. This was an amazing stroke of luck as well as an amazing coincidence. Turns out that Juan is an expert on the GR7 and all things walking in Spain. He has his own web site (www.jaholgado.com) and helped Michele Lowe and Kirstie Shirra write their guide “Walking the GR7 in Andalucia”.

Although I was lucky enough to meet Juan face to face there is now a group of people providing each other with advice about the E4 something which will hopefully continue to develop. I got great help from Sue and Ivan Godrey who have already walked along the GR7 variant, David and Carole who have been walking the E4 for several years and provided advice on accomodation, and Menno Wolters who helped early with the route.

Hope to blog every day and the schedule is as follows:

15th October - from Ventas de Zarraya to Alhama de Granada
16th - to Jayena
17th - to Albunuelas
18th - to Lanjaron
19th - to Buibon
20th - to Travelez
21st - to Berchules
22nd - to Bayarcal
23rd - to La Calahorra

Finding which is the best variant in Andaculia is one several questions about the E4 route which I intend to enjoy answering over the next 18 months or so. I also want to walk all the way along the GR7 from El Boixar to Pyrennees and see if this as a better option than the official route which takes you down to the coast; whether you could somehow incorporate the Robert Louis Stephenson Trail into the walk in the Massif Central; and, whether there is a higher level option in the Vercors.

Finding answers to these questions is just an excuse to go back to some amazing walking country but at the same time, and because I enjoy it, I do intend to keep working on the blog and, hopefully with collaborators, develop it as a source of information for anyone interested in the E4. In particular I’d like to revisit the work on the stages I did when planning the walk and update it to take account of what I found when I actually did it. This will include a more comprehensive look at the accommodation options.

While I’ve managed to raise nearly £6,000 for my charity in Nepal (and thanks to everyone who sponsored me) it's still a long way from my target (£20,000!) but I don’t intend to give up. I think I may have squeezed as much out of family and friends as I can so I’m now starting to look at other options (please let me know if you have any suggestions). Currently looking at ways the web-site could generate income and, for example, will use any revenue from adverts on the web-site as a contribution to the target.

My Gear on the E4 - Good, Bad and Ugly

So what did I take with me on the E4 and did I make the right choices?

Well firstly it's important to reiterate that the plan was to sleep in a bed each night and that I didn't have to carry any camping or cooking equipment.  It was a long trip but soft rather than hardcore.

Wet but dry

I had somehow managed to win the "Berghaus Adventure Challenge", which meant I was just about  Berghaus man head to toe.  I took GORE-TEX® Paclite® Shell Overtrousers; Dru Stretch GORE-TEX® Paclite® Shell Jacket; 2 pairs of Terrain zip off convertible trousers; 3 T-shirts with argentium technology to prevent the smell, one with long sleeves; and one Brenta Microfleece half zip top.  I will need to keep walking until I'm about 150 if I'm going to use all my Berghaus T-shirts - I have about 10 altogether and they are indestructible.

In addition I had three pairs of woollen socks and four pairs of pants (took an extra pair by mistake!). Essentially I had a day time outfit and an evening outfit and tried to wash the day time outfit every night. Both outfits were identical which meant I wore the same colour blue T shirt for just over six months.

I went with very light Inov8 Men's Terroc 345 GORE-TEX trainers. My first pair were GORE-TEX lined 345 GTX and then, anticipating hotter weather I shifted to the non-lined  Inov8 Terroc 330s Didn't carry a spare pair but new ones arrived as the old ones fell apart. Had a pair of flip-flops which I wore in the evening.

Inov8 Terroc 345 GTX

I took an iPhone, iPad and a Panasonic Lumix TZ10 camera. All the functionally on my IPad was available on the iPhone but I didn't want to blog using the tiny iPhone screen and the IPad is much better for entertainment. Worth remembering that I didn't take any maps relying on the maps and routes I had downloaded to the iPhone. I used CompeGPS chosen because at the time it was the only one I could find which ran on an iPhone and for which you could get maps for Spain. To make sure I had enough battery power I also took 2 New Trent Iphone supplementary batteries and a New Trent battery pack (capable of recharging the IPad). I had to take two charging devices, one for the Apple gear and one for the camera. I cut and reaffixed all the cables to reduce the weight.

Other items included hat, gloves and walking sticks. Lost two hats and my first pair of walking sticks, a pair of Fizan Compact which were both relatively cheap and very light.

I carried everything in an Osprey Exos 46  bag (with a waterproof cover) and started with an Osprey 3 litre Hyproform water reservoir. Was really worried about getting stuff wet so had go a couple of fold dry bags as well, one for my clothes and one for the iPad.

Star performers for me were the waterproof jacket, the long sleeve T shirt and my Osprey Exos 46 bag.

The waterproof jacket was brilliant. Looked good, easy to put on and given the incredibly bad weather I had, totally effective. It was also tough and unlike the trousers didn't tear went you were bashing your way through undergrowth.

Calling a long sleeve T shirt a star performer seems a bit over the top but it added so much flexibility to my "wardrobe". Layers and long sleeves gave the bit of extra warmth I occasionally needed without resorting to a fleece and the dark colour meant it was a bit smarter for wearing in the evening.

I just love my ruck-sack and was so fed up when I got a small tear in the top bag climbing through a deer fence in Hungary. Really comfortable, didn't suffer any back-pains, and after 180 days the tear (and some sweaty straps) is the only sign that the bag has been used. Kept my waterproofs in the zip-up outer compartment and the top bag was big enough for the food I consumed in the day.

My Inov-8 shoes were also a success and, once my feet and ankles had toughened up, very comfortable. Because of the schedule I set myself, blisters would have been a real problem but I didn't get any. In fact the only problem I had was when I got back and for some reason my feet became very painful - they're fine now. I think it might have been a mistake not to stick with the Gore-Tex version, the weather meant my feet were often wet and sometimes very cold. On the other hand the shoes dried really quickly, when I was wearing them, and maybe, with the Gore-Tex version, drying would have been slower. Walking in trainers, particularly through Austria where everyone wears enormous boots, generated a lot of comment but it was clear from the conversations that boots were no guarantee of comfort.

I went through four pairs of shoes. After about six weeks of solid walking a hole would appear in the sole of my right shoe which progressively got larger. My last pair, which took me through Austria and Hungary, wore out faster and I think this might be because I was doing a lot more climbing in the Alps.

It might sound a bit smug from someone just back from a 5,000 kilometre walk but I think if you get fitter (and lighter) you have less problems with your feet. In my twenties I was able to run down hills but soon lost that ability, just too painful. On the walk I was running down hills again and with a bag on my back as well.

So the things that didn't work so well.

Well the GORE-TEX® Paclite® Shell Overtrousers were a bit of a failure. Two problems: firstly the material was too delicate and walking through rough stuff left holes; secondly the seams gave way around the knees. By the time I had got half way through Spain they were being held together by insulation tap I picked up along the way.

The second let-down was the Osprey 3 litre Hyproform water reservoir which failed in Spain. The reservoir comes with a sort of handle which goes the length of the bag and gives it rigidity as it empties. This handle unclips and when you clip it back into place you can catch the bag and make a hole. That's what happened to me leaving me with a wet back and more embarrassing, a wet pair of trousers.

Whether or not my maplite approach to navigation worked is a bigger question but the iPhone was essentially a success and failures were mostly down to user incompetence. The only problem I had was with the batteries towards the end of the walk which would no longer charge the phone. To be honest I have no idea whether this is a failure of the Trent batteries or whether or not my IPhone battery, after such intensive use, is starting to give up the ghost.

One final thing, while I'm at it, socks. Everyone, it seems to me, walks in woollen walking socks and I started with the same things. They wore out really quickly and were an absolute pain to wash and dry. In France I bought two pairs of Moose running socks, totally synthetic, very elasticated and thicker only where they needed to be thicker. Turned out they were just as comfortable as the woollen socks, lasted longer and best of all I was able to wash them everyday and they would usually dry overnight.

Coming Up for Air

Have now been home for a week and it almost feels like I have never been away. The initial shock of discovering that life went on when I wasn’t here has subsided and I have almost got used to all the redecorating that was done in my absence.

After surviving for over six months without anything going wrong physically things really fell apart in my first week home. All of a sudden I was exhausted, absolutely knackered, got my first cold of the year and had an awful headache for three days. Worse was the ache in my feet. They were hurting so much that I started to worry that I had done some permanent damage. Have no idea what was going on but they have been a bit numb for some time so maybe it was just some sort of recovery process.

Anyway going into the second week at home I’m now starting to feel better. An issue is body shape which has changed a bit. Have dropped from 12 to 10.5 stones, a 10 kilogram weight loss, and have had to buy some new jeans. To be honest I feel better being lighter but if I’m not walking 30 kilometres a day the weight might just come back.

Talked to my doctor about Lymes decease and he said that symptoms would have presented themselves by now and we decided that it wasn’t even worth having a blood test.

The biggest recovery manifestation is that I can now start to think about what I want to do next. Had lots and lots of ideas while walking but couldn’t even entertain them last week. The most tangible and immediate is a trip back to Spain and Andalucia in October to walk to southern variant of the GR7. Have been in touch with Juan Holdago - who I met while walking in Spain and who knows everything about the GR7 - and he has already sent me lots of information. Will put another blog together on the plan when I have the schedule in place.

I’m also trying to clean up the blog pages and maybe, if I have the patience, I’ll try and develop a site which will help anyone thinking of walking bits of the E4 or indeed any of the E long distance trails.

The best thing about coming home is that I have met my grand-daughter, Georgia. What a star, absolutely gorgeous, and I’m afraid that I’m bowled over.

PS

Many thanks for the sponsorship that keeps coming in. Particular thanks to David Pritchard whose promise to sponsor me when I finished was a key motivator and to Andrew and Julia Collins whose support was less performance linked.

Monday 5th September Piliscsev to Budapest

It's over. Six months, 5000 kilometres, starting in the extreme south west of Europe with winter turning to spring and finishing in Hungary with autumn now establishing itself - it feels like I have been walking for ever.

Had resisted the idea of Christine, and others, coming to Budapest to see me finish the walk - I'm desperate to get home and didn't want anything to hold that up. Of course that meant that the final day could have been a "damp squid" - with me sneaking into to Budapest and then jumping on the plane and leaving. Well it was more fun than that and I'm very grateful to Csaba Almási for taking time of work and spending the day with me.

Left Piliscsev at about 8 and was at the station in Piliscsaba at about 9 to meet Csaba. To be honest I did not pay as much attention to the walk as I normally do, was chatting to Csaba, and staring at the horizon for the first tangible signs of Budapest. In terms of detail all I remember is that was a nice walk - you remain in countryside almost to the last minute - the weather was good and the views were great.

You don't actually see Budapest from the distance, not from the direction you come in on the Blue Route, what you see is the hill above Budapest, and I guess we were about 9 kilometres from the end of the walk at that point. Sent a text home and then, and throughout the day, messages were flying back and forth with family and friends.

We stopped for lunch at Csaba's relative who lives about three miles before the end of the walk, lovely lunch and the best beer I have had since leaving England.




I did know, but I had managed to forget, that the Blue Route and the E4 don't actually go through the middle of Budapest - the route crosses the city boundary and bounces back out again before eventually heading east - the usual meandering Blue Route style. Was in a slight dilemma and for a time felt that I should walk into the city centre, through the rush hour and with no real route, and not actually on the E4. The dilemma was short lived and completely put to bed when I saw the opportunity to travel in on the beautiful Budapest yellow trams.

Just inside the Budapest City Boundary

With Csaba Almási - ex Hungarian Long Jump Champion

Before setting of we had a beer at the Huvosvolgy, the terminal for Children's Railway, and the "stamping point" for the Blue Route before it leaves Budapest. Some English tourists (trainspotters I suspect) took the picture. More pictures on the platform for the tram and Csaba pulled out a couple of little bottles of Hungarian bubbly for a Formula One celebration.



Magic moment on the tram going into town. Trying to work out where to take some pictures and thinking about to "iconic" Budapest views, we were joined in on the discussion by other passengers and within seconds the story of my walk was transmitted around the carriage and congratulations on its completion where being given and gratefully received.

Have been to Budapest twice before, and will definitely come back again for a proper stay. It's a stunning city, it is so often compared with Vienna, but I think it's much nicer.

The Parliament Building in Budapest

Finished my day with some more pictures and some more beer and an interview with a journalist from the Hungarian Olympic Committee - always the embarrassing question, why did you do it?

Great last day. Checked into the Hotel feeling "tired and emotional" and for once couldn't face writing my blog. Spoke to Christine, had a bath, went and had some dinner and felt much better.

Back to England today, Tuesday the 6th, and decompression. No idea how I will feel after having a new adventure every day for six months.

Walking the E4 has been wonderful. I'm so lucky to have had the time and resources to take such a journey, see so many places and meet so many people. Have lots of plans about what I want to do next but I think this is last time I'll try and walk across a continent.

Forest Gump is coming home!