Stage 14 - The E4 from Koszeg to Budapest

By the time I got to Kozeg I was obsessed with getting home and could only think about finishing the walk.  My pre-occupation with the end of trip inevitably meant that I rushed at things through Hungary and missed some of the local colour.  Still I enjoyed I enjoyed the last two weeks, had lots of adventures and came away with some wonderful memories.

I knew less about Hungary than any of the countries I had visited. I had been to Budapest a couple of times before, and loved it, but had never left the City boundary and didn't really know what to expect.   More than any stage of the trip the last part of the walk felt like a real journey into the unknown.

The Countrywide Blue Route

Monday 5th September Piliscsev to Budapest

It's over. Six months, 5000 kilometres, starting in the extreme south west of Europe with winter turning to spring and finishing in Hungary with autumn now establishing itself - it feels like I have been walking for ever.

Had resisted the idea of Christine, and others, coming to Budapest to see me finish the walk - I'm desperate to get home and didn't want anything to hold that up. Of course that meant that the final day could have been a "damp squid" - with me sneaking into to Budapest and then jumping on the plane and leaving. Well it was more fun than that and I'm very grateful to Csaba Almási for taking time of work and spending the day with me.

Left Piliscsev at about 8 and was at the station in Piliscsaba at about 9 to meet Csaba. To be honest I did not pay as much attention to the walk as I normally do, was chatting to Csaba, and staring at the horizon for the first tangible signs of Budapest. In terms of detail all I remember is that was a nice walk - you remain in countryside almost to the last minute - the weather was good and the views were great.

You don't actually see Budapest from the distance, not from the direction you come in on the Blue Route, what you see is the hill above Budapest, and I guess we were about 9 kilometres from the end of the walk at that point. Sent a text home and then, and throughout the day, messages were flying back and forth with family and friends.

We stopped for lunch at Csaba's relative who lives about three miles before the end of the walk, lovely lunch and the best beer I have had since leaving England.




I did know, but I had managed to forget, that the Blue Route and the E4 don't actually go through the middle of Budapest - the route crosses the city boundary and bounces back out again before eventually heading east - the usual meandering Blue Route style. Was in a slight dilemma and for a time felt that I should walk into the city centre, through the rush hour and with no real route, and not actually on the E4. The dilemma was short lived and completely put to bed when I saw the opportunity to travel in on the beautiful Budapest yellow trams.

Just inside the Budapest City Boundary

With Csaba Almási - ex Hungarian Long Jump Champion

Before setting of we had a beer at the Huvosvolgy, the terminal for Children's Railway, and the "stamping point" for the Blue Route before it leaves Budapest. Some English tourists (trainspotters I suspect) took the picture. More pictures on the platform for the tram and Csaba pulled out a couple of little bottles of Hungarian bubbly for a Formula One celebration.



Magic moment on the tram going into town. Trying to work out where to take some pictures and thinking about to "iconic" Budapest views, we were joined in on the discussion by other passengers and within seconds the story of my walk was transmitted around the carriage and congratulations on its completion where being given and gratefully received.

Have been to Budapest twice before, and will definitely come back again for a proper stay. It's a stunning city, it is so often compared with Vienna, but I think it's much nicer.

The Parliament Building in Budapest

Finished my day with some more pictures and some more beer and an interview with a journalist from the Hungarian Olympic Committee - always the embarrassing question, why did you do it?

Great last day. Checked into the Hotel feeling "tired and emotional" and for once couldn't face writing my blog. Spoke to Christine, had a bath, went and had some dinner and felt much better.

Back to England today, Tuesday the 6th, and decompression. No idea how I will feel after having a new adventure every day for six months.

Walking the E4 has been wonderful. I'm so lucky to have had the time and resources to take such a journey, see so many places and meet so many people. Have lots of plans about what I want to do next but I think this is last time I'll try and walk across a continent.

Forest Gump is coming home!

Sunday 4th of September Mogyorosbanya to Piliscsev

Brilliant penultimate day's walk capped by some wonderful Hungarian hospitality and kindness.

Now I'm so close to Budapest I'm just slightly anxious that something might go wrong. Nerves were definitely stretched walking up the sunken road just out of Mogyorosbanya when a guy on a motorbike comes hurling down the trail, round a corner and finds me. Think he was the more frightened, perhaps because he knew there were another two bikers right behind him and he didn't want them tangling with him as he struggled to avoid me. He rams into one wall of the sunken road while I pin myself against the other. He somehow stays vertical and without stopping all three continue their high speed descent. Alls well that ends well but very scary.

Having survived the motorbikes was rewarded at the top of the little summit of Koszikla with views across the Danube valley into Slovakia. Wasn't able to get hold of the next map so not entirely sure what I was looking at towards the north-east but there was a city with a large building in the middle of it with a dome. For a second I thought it was Budapest, but only for second.



The walk then went down into a valley (saw my second Hungarian shepard) and up another little summit and down to the village of Tokod (first ice cream of the day). I then had a really steep climb up to the top of Nagy-Gate. Perhaps only a couple of hundred metres of actual climb but seem to have lost the hill climbing technique I developed in the Alps and was trying to go up far to fast. Although it was a bit misty today the views, particularly back to Geresce, were really good.



Then down to Dorog, a big town which I managed to get through by following the blue signs - in one side and out the other - with a second ice cream stop on the way.

After about four kilometres, and having gone through the village of Kesztolc, I was into what I thought was the nicest part of the day. Lovely walk through wild meadow under a long limestone ridge, a nice fresh breeze, and great open views to the west. Accidentally followed some green and white signs and actually climbed up over the ridge before I realised my mistake.







Had been advised that there was no accommodation in Piliscev so planned to stay Klastrompuszta. Unfortunately the guesthouse was full. The landlady tried to contact an address in Piliscev but with no luck. She gave me the name of the place and after getting to the village, wandering around aimlessly for a bit, a man in a bar gave me some instructions. When I found the place, the Kelemen Majorsag which was right on the eastern edge of the village, it was a goat farm (although it had virtually every farm animal other than cows) whose accommodation is still in the process of completion. They were expecting me however, the landlady from Klastrompuszta had made contact, and I got really well looked after.

The Kelemen Majorsag makes artisan goats cheese. They have converted an old farmstead and it's a venue for people to visit farm animals as well as buy the produce. I had loads of cheese, and I love goats cheese, but the revelation was the goats milk. I had always assumed that it would taste a bit goaty, like the cheese, but not a bit of it. It was like a lighter and somehow fresher than cows milk and chilled was absolutely perfect on a hot day.




After getting the full tour of the farm I was also treated to a brilliant dinner. Chicken in a soup with small light dumpings, and then for the main course your ate the chicken meat from the soup with a thick tomato/pimento sauce and a sort of ratatouille. I love this sort of food, but my wife Christine would have gone nuts for it.

As their rooms were still being finished they had arranged for me stay in a lovely place in the village, which I think is a converted wine warehouse. I think the people who own it are friends and, as far as I can tell, no one seems to want any money. Absolutely wonderful - I'll be able to make a contribution to my charity.

Last day tomorrow and the walk into Budapest. I'm being joined by one of the guys who I met last Saturday, a former Hungarian long jump champion (Csaba Almasi) and we are stopping of for lunch at some of his relatives.

Top marks for Hungarian hospitality.

Saturday 3rd September Tatabanya to Mogyorosbanya

Nice 30 kilometre walk through what I think is another park centred on the Gerecse mountain (633 metres). Started walking at about 8.30 and finished at 4.

Stayed in a modern hotel in Tatabanya so got a taxi back to roughly the same point at which I finished yesterday. Staying away from trail in Tatabanya worked very well and if I didn't object to walking on hard surfaces so much I could have followed a spur of the route in and out the town.

Not quite the same autumnal morning today as yesterday, the air was dryer and the sun beams looked dusty rather than luminescent, but still a brilliant start to the day.





The crunch of acorn shells under your feet and occasional acorn falling around you reminded of the fact that most of the forest was oak. You would have thought woodpeckers would have preferred a softer wood but the constant tap tap tap suggested otherwise.




What made today different was the number of walkers out on the trail. A lot of really fast walkers. Must admit I do like someone to pace myself against. So when someone comes flying past me I let them get about 50 metres ahead of me then try keep up with them. Must be really annoying, when you think your walking much faster than someone only to find them keeping up, you must think your slowing down. Really enjoyed keeping up with one guy who had walking sticks, walking gloves and lycra shorts. At one point he started running which in my book means his nerve had cracked - disqualification and another gold medal to the British Team. Small things for small minds but it certainly made the hours tick by.




Most of the walk was through trees although there was also some nice open bits. Strangely you walked around Gerecse rather than to the summit and several times there were hints of views across what I guess was the valley of the Danube but these never quite materialised.

By early afternoon I was starting to pay for my speed walking and stopped for a sustained breather at a picnic point just to the east of the Geresce mountain. A quick glance at my map seemed to suggest that perhaps I'd only got about 7 kilometres to go. Encouraged of I went (was now sharing navigation duties with another walker), essentially down hill (but including 300 metres of horrible nettles/brambles), then uphill to a very busy pilgrimage place at Pelifoldszentkereszt.




After the nettles and the heat, and thinking that I must be close to the end I checked the map. There was a K+ route which went directly to Mogyorosbanya or a K route which went on the usual meander and was twice as far. Only the unadulterated K routes come with the unadulterated white and blue stripes so I felt I had to stick with them. Initially found myself in a procession of pilgrims and then, beyond them, a "swarm" of speed walkers - amongst which was my man from this morning - and he was definitely not alone in his Lycra.

Friday September 2nd Vargesztes to Tatabanya

In quick succession this morning two things happened that made me think that perhaps I have been making hard work of walking in Hungary. Firstly I found the map I needed in a tiny little shop in Vargesztes and secondly I worked out where you can get public wifi. I suspect the maps are everywhere but I wasn't looking hard enough to find them and I've seen loads of the wifi signs but didn't experiment to see if I could use them.



Anyway no need to beat myself up, I've survived, within three days of Budapest and less than 100 kilometres to go.

Got away nice and early this morning and was leaving the village at about 7.30. When I started this walk in southern Spain spring was only just beginning to break through and in the mountains winter was still in control. Today in Vargeztes, it felt like early autumn. The swallows were gathering on the electricity cables, the dew was so heavy that the water was dripping from the trees and there was a slight early morning mist.

Once in the forest it was magical. The moisture in the air, and the sun which was still quite low, produced the sharpest sun beams I have ever seen. They shone through the trees like spot lights on an enormous stage set - absolutely arresting and this lasted for at least at hour and until the sun was strong enough to dry the air out.







Eventually left the trees and headed down into the little town of Szarliget. Under no real time pressure today, it was getting hot, so stopped in a bar for some shade and a cold drink. It was about 11. 30 and I'd already done more than half my planned walk.

Leaving Szarliget, and after walking alongside a road paralleling a noisy motorway, got into nice open countryside before a walk alongside a series of lakes. Saw a kingfisher flash past over lake - a blur of turquoise - and a couple of deer. There was also a line of large white vans, and a crew preparing a set for filming - like being back in London.







For once the wonderful white and blue signs let me down. Arrows on a pole clearly suggested straight on but I couldn't find the track. Following a really rough track and got my legs covered in little lacerations. Eventually worked out that the track was a right turn before you even got to the distracting signs on the pole. Temper not improved when I managed to snarl then rip my rucksack on some deer fencing you somehow had to get through.

Had my second lunch at a shelter at Kulcsoshaz and then down past Tornyopuszta to the road. Had decided to leave the trail, no accommodation, and stay in Tatabanya. Just got to the bus-stop, was studying the timetable, when the squeal of air breaks behind signalled the arrival of the bus. Into Tatabanya and it was still only 4 o'clock - compared to the last two, today's been an easy one.

Tatabanya is a new town, which is good, under no pressure to go and look at buildings.

Thursday 1st September Fehervarcsurgo to Vargesztes

Got an Elton John lyric stuck in my head "someone saved, someone saved, someone saved my life tonight". Of course that's being a bit too dramatic but after arriving in Vargeztes after a 46 kilometre walk, wandering around the village trying to find the guesthouse and to then find a man in the village bar who drives me there (turns out that the guesthouse owner is his friend), acts as translator all evening and then takes me to his house so I can use his wifi, then I'm sorry but song feels appropriate.

Was also really well looked after in the Karolyi Kastely Hotel last night. Nice dinner and they kindly agreed to do me an early breakfast so I was walking by about half-past seven.

As I understand it today's walk has been about two national parks - a smaller one this morning and a much bigger one this afternoon. The middle section involved crossing a valley to get from one to the other.

Before getting to the first park I had to complete the trip around the Fehervarcsurgo reservoir, lots of people fishing, and then through an extended area of what could have been holiday homes.

The park was very pleasant with the walk following a stream along the bottom of a limestone gorge. About a third of the way up there was small lake and two very big guys were having a swim, the water looked very green and there were dense shoals fish swimming close to the surface.







After a short climb out the gorge and a walk down a ski run (very short ski run) I was in the fairly large village of Bodajk. Spent a bit of time trying to find some wifi before heading of across the valley to Csokako. This was all road walking and in fact was offered a lift on the long slog up to the town but, graciously I hope, turned it down.

Csokako is a sort of gateway to the second and much larger Vertes park, a gateway which is guarded by a spectacular castle.

Csókakő Castle

The park provided some lovely walking, a range of different forest types including oak, beech and pine as well as some more open countryside. The paths were excellent. The only problem was that, like yesterday, there was a lot of walking to do. At 12.30 I saw a sign saying that I had another 30 kilometres to finish and it would take 10 hours.























Worth noting that I have not been able to buy a map for this part of the walk. Looking at the map on the wall in the guesthouse, the Vadaszhaz (another really kind Hungarian couple running it), I was amazed to see what a meandering route the E4 took through the forest. Good job I didn't have a map, would definitely have been tempted to take a short cut.

Had originally thought about staying at Kohanyaspuzta but was there by 5.30 and thought that accommodation would be easier at Vargeztes, the next village on. Arrived there at just after 6.30, got some confused instructions on where the guest house was, couldn't find it and rest is just an Elton John lyric.

Wednesday 31st August Zirc to Fehervarcsurgo

Well if it wasn't a 50 kilometre walk it certainly felt like it. Bashing along for 12 plus hours plus, under pressure all day, it really was too far. With the benefit of hindsight I should have carried on walking yesterday and then caught the bus back to Zirc. Today could then have been more sensible.

As it was I had my first Hungarian "lost in translation" moment in Zirc. I was the only person in the guesthouse and thought I was getting dinner last night and breakfast early today. I was wrong on both counts. When I wondered down from my room last night everything was shut up and it was still shut when I got up this morning. Made do with burger and chips last night and bought an enormous Hungarian equivalent of a pain au chocolate at a baker this morning. Dodgy 24 hour gastronomy but it's home cooking from next week so who cares.

Not having breakfast actually saved a few minutes time wise so at least I was away by just after 7. Again the weather was perfect for walking.

Getting our of Zirc was very straightforward, a walk along the side of a road for about 4 kilometres to the village of Nagyesztergar. The walk then followed a little valley firstly to the village of Bakonynana and then to the village of Jasd. Was particularly nice just east of Bakonynana and the paths looked well used. Worth mentioning that as well as the blue and white markers, bits of blue plastic hanging from trees are often used to denote the trail. There was a particularly interesting variant to this near Bakonynana.




Despite the markings somehow missed the trail heading into Jasd and got on the wrong side of the little river. Must have wasted about 20 minutes getting things right again.

Heading up a steep path through huge beech trees out of Jasd and on the way to Tes found a man sitting on the floor picking enormous blackberries. He persuaded me to try one and it was amazing. He then insisted I took a whole bagful away with me which I managed to consume over the next 30 minutes. Nice man!







Had a very fast lunch just after Tes (pizza from the bakery, two apples and two muesli bars) and within about 5 minutes was moving again. Same sort of walking for the next couple of hours (beech and oak forest with the occasional open field) with various features along the way (including an open air chapel).

Mid way through the afternoon, and about an hour away from Bakonykuti, the countryside started to change. The trees turned to pine, everything took on drier more burnt out look and the tops of the hills were open. For a while I was walking alongside a feature that looked like a shallow gauge. I think the geology may have changed back to limestone.

Had my second encounter of the trip with a snake - very nearly stepped on it - whatever sort it was it wasn't concerned and wasn't moving.




The last stretch from Bakonykuti to Fehervarcsurgo included some very open heath like stretches. There was even a young shepherd pushing along a mixed flock of sheep/goats, something I haven't seen since Andalucia.

Was in Fehervarcsurgo just after 7 and it wasn't obvious where the accommodation was. After wandering around made a dash for the castle and managed to get a room just before the restaurant closed. Very grand and my room even had a bath which is exactly what my sore feet needed.

Karolyi Kastely

Tuesday 30th August Bakonybel to Zirc

After a long one yesterday a short one today. About twenty kilometres and a five hour walk. Just as well because have just worked out that from the Kektura schedule that tomorrow's walk is 50 kilometres long. Must admit I'm a bit confused by the distances, when I did my planning back in the UK I had come up with a slightly more manageable 43 kilometres.

The highlight of today's walk was the summit of Koris-Hegy which at 709 metres is also (I think) the highest point of my walk in Hungary. Involved a nice gentle walk up the hill and an equally gentle walk down the other side. The whole of the mountain is a mass of wonderful beech trees. At the top there was a look out tower from which there were views south, south west, of the walk through hills I did yesterday and north across plains. The most prominent feature was the communication globe immediately next to the tower.

Koris-Hegy

The only significant settlement I went through today, on the way to Zirc, was Borzavar, a village with a couple of bars and a hotel.

Zirc itself is a much larger town with some fairly grand baroque style buildings in the middle. Has all the facilities and plenty of accommodation.

Monday 29th August Nagyvazsony to Bakonybel

Today was a long one, started walking about 7.40 and didn't finish until 6.40 in the evening, hardly stopped so at least 10 and half hours walking. Supposed to be 45 kilometres but felt longer and with a final 4 kilometre bash along the tarmac my feet were humming by the time I finished.

The weather is now perfect for walking, warm rather than hot, and the air has lost it's humidity and the views are better.

Left Nagyvazsony via the castle and after a walk for about a kilometre along the road turned into green lane walk up to Kabhegy,a little summit festooned with communication towers and which, at 500 metres provided views back to Lake Balaton. Nice trail, a mix of open countryside and woodland.

Leaving Nagyvazsony 

One the way to Urkut, and after having to walk through a prolonged stretch of nettles, I just missed the trail and was soon put right by a couple of Hungarian walkers. We dropped in at the cafe in Urkut and got a drink. They were catching a train in Varoslokislod, 8 kilometres away, and had to get there in 90 minutes, so they didn't hang about.



Another nice stretch of walking to Varoslokislod, the same mix of woodland and meadow, and I guess I was there at about 2. Too be honest there was not much to the town/village, which stretched along either side of the railway line, but it seemed to take ages to get through it. Once you had got past it, gone underneath the motorway, you then had to walk along the side the road for a couple of kilometres until the road had crossed the railway line and the route took you cross country again.

After a initial walk through a meadow the route dived into the beech forest and stayed there almost until the end of the day. No big views but nice walking particularly as the light changed as the afternoon drew on. At one point the trail was wide and flat and your clearly walking along a old railway embankment.



The last village before the final push to Bakonybel was the little village of Netmetbanya village, which I read somewhere used to be a German settlement and still has something called the German house.

After a couple of kilometres through the trees it was onto the tarmac road heading downhill. Staying at another hotel recommended by a Hungarian commentator to the blog, the Vadszolo, and it has turned out really well, great food.

The only problem I have at the moment is my walking shoes. I'm on my fourth pair and based on the track record of the other three they should last me with a week to spare. They are however falling apart. The tops are a mess of holes, the fabric weakened I think by the constant soaking it got in the Alps, and the sole has worn through on the right foot. Seven more days to go and I really don't want to change foot ware at such a late stage. Fingers crossed.

Sunday 28th Szentbekkalla to Nagyvazsony

It happens so often that it has now become a general principle. The weather improves the day after you really need good weather. So today the weather was perfect, not too hot and a strong overnight wind had blown all the humidity away. Really needed today's clear weather yesterday when I was climbing up vantage points and had the big views. Today's walk to Nagyvazsony was nice but much shorter than yesterday and not as dramatic.

Leaving Szentbekkalla at about 9.30 the wind was still blowing and it was actually cool. Immediately to the north of the village the signs said go left and my GPS trail said go right. Going right involved passing a man in a tower shooting at things so I turned off the GPS and went left.

Climbing up the hill went past a remote house with a naked couple in the garden and washing themselves with a water pipe. Crept quietly past as anything else felt like an intrusion.

On top of the hill was a wooden watchtower, three or four flights of stairs high and with views above the trees. Great views of Lake Balaton in between the hills to the south and in the picture below the central hill (can't work out what it's called from the map) is the hill I climbed just after midday yesterday.

Views back to Balaton

By now the sun had come out again but it's not hot nearly as it has been. Stopped in a bar in Balatonhenye for a drink of lemonade and walked on through a mix of open countryside and forest towards Nagyvazsony. The agriculture seems less intensive in this part of Hungary than it was last week, not so many huge fields designed for huge machines. The forest walks were very similar - really pleasant.

Dense canopy

So got to Nagyvazsony at about 2.30 after 21 very easy kilometres. Given the perfect weather conditions was tempted to carry on but I'm running out of map and couldn't find a petrol station to buy the next one. The most likely reason I put a short day in the schedule is that I couldn't find anywhere to stay at in a reasonable distance further along the trail. As it is I have a 44 kilometre walk tomorrow.

Nagyvazsony is actually a very pleasant village. It has a 15th century castle and a museum charting the development of the post office. Good opportunity to rest up before the start of last full week of walking.

Kinizci Castle

There is particularly distinct sign for the E4 which has started to crop up, have only seen it in Hungary. It's a sort of cross between the television series "Madmen" and the film "Sound of Music" - is that at "A line" dress?.

Saturday 27th August Tapolca to Szentbekkalla

Today was definitely the best walk I have had so far in Hungary. The landscape has opened up, walked through a series of interesting places and it was just a bit cooler than it has been for the last few days. Best of all I had some company.

Met a group of four Hungarian guys, who had also been staying in Topolca, a couple of kilometres south of the town. Really nice guys who were doing the Blue Route a few days at a time. A bit younger but very similar (a lot fitter actually) to a group of men I go walking with every year back in the UK. Great to exchange notes and talk about walking, Hungary and other things. They kindly took me wine tasting and up the castle at Szigliget and we walked together until early afternoon.



(one missing in the picture as he was taking it)

Actually today was a tougher walk than I had expected. 37 kilometres, leaving Topolca at 7.30, meant that I should have arrived at Szentbekkal at about 4.30 - it was nearer 6. There was a lot more climbing than I have had in Hungary so far. Essentially the route takes you south towards Lake Balaton up and down two volcanic "plugs" and then, north again, up and down another three (although to be honest you didn't go to the top of the last two). The first one heading north was particularly tough, climbing at a hot time of the day, and up steps.

The volcanic plugs give the landscape its distinctive shape. Taken as a whole it looks Italian, like Tuscany or Umbria and, as I understand it, this comparison is often made. It's not just the shape of the mountains, but the colour and light, and way the villages stand out against a green background.

The volcanic plugs also have there own individual characters. The first one, near Kisapati, has spectacular basalt columns like giant organ tubes; the second one the castle sitting at the top; the third and tough one to climb, brilliant views down to Lake Balaton; the fourth one the best shape, the perfect conical volcano; and the fifth one, another hill top castle. Was told that the two castles, along with the third at Sumeg, all form part of a middle age defensive line along the then border.

Given the quality of the scenery, the slight disappointment was the humidity in the air which meant that visibility was poor. (The landscape pictures I took I'm afraid were terrible and I haven't included them). It was changing a little towards early evening and for the last few kilometres the day had gone from stifling summer to mellow autumn. It's now changed again and there is a wind storm - feels wonderful after the last few days.

Of course I always wish that Christine (my wife) was here but this is definitely her kind of walking. A couple of weeks time I guess would be perfect but already your confronted with an array of amazing local produce, at the moment apples and pears, a real garden of Eden. And then of course, on top of that, is the local wine. Christine would be grabbing everything as she went along. Even had some local spring water to refill my bottle with.







To ice the cake I'm staying in a wonderful gasthof in Szentbetkalla. I had found one on the Internet and had asked Zoltan, a helpful Hungarian who responded to my plea for assistance, to book it for me. It was full. He found another one but I think found their telephone manner a bit strange and was not sure how good it would be. Well it turned out to be excellent - the little restaurant was packed, always a good sign, and I had the best meal I've had in ages. It's called the Ester Panzio. Really getting a taste for all the different lake fish you get in central Europe, fish we don't see in the UK.

So a top, top day.

Friday 26th of August Keszthely to Tapolca

Got a phone call from a charming Hungarian woman this morning with words of encouragement and advice. Lovely surprise and she also spoke excellent English (better than me although as others have pointed out I've lacked practice recently). Amongst other things she told me that the weather at the moment is exceptional and breaking records.

Hang on! So I spend two months walking through the Alps enduring one of the wettest summers anyone can remember and now I'm in Hungary enduring one of the hottest summers anyone can remember. What I'd like to remember please is some average, some normal!

Anyway today's walk definitely had three parts to it (all hot). A short but roadside escape from Keszthely; a long middle section mainly through forest but some open countryside at its end; then a really long roadside walk into Tapolca.

I suspect that the amount of roadside walking you do tends to be a product of how densely populated the countryside is and this, to an extent, is a product of how high you are. I remember when I was walking through Andalucia complaining about the road side walking (one infamous day involved 36 kilometres) and being warned that this common "in Europe" and to expect lots. As it turned out I hardly got any as most the E4 is through mountains. I'm getting a bit more now because it's lower and I think this is a busy part of Hungary. It's more of a pain than it would normally be because of the heat but the bus service looks excellent so I could always chop bits off if I was suffering.

The first 3 kilometres involved a walk out to the out to town shops - huge Tesco. Got my lunch there - slice of pizza and fruit, no chocolate, too hot - and bought a map, as advised by a Hungarian commentator, at the petrol station. Felt odd going into a petrol station as a walker. Then had to walk down a few hundred metres of seriously busy road where the gust of a lorry whipped my hat off - managed to retrieve it but not very dignified.

Busy road on the way out of Keszthely

At least I had nearly escaped Keszthely and after a walk through a suburb I was in forest. Final non forest bit actually was a trip alongside a rifle range where live firing was taking place. The side of the route was marked with red flags and if I had had a white flag I would have been waving it.

This stretch of walk is through what is described on the map as the Keszthelyi Mountains and which are about 300 metres high, just high enough to create a welcome breeze at the top. No real long views at this stage - all forest, initially oak, some old pine and then beech.

Huge pine trees

Breaking out from the trees was confronted with an enormous field of sunflowers all with heads bowed in the sun.

Sun flowers bowing their heads in the sun

The first village was Vallus. There seems to be pump near every village church, not sure if you can drink the water but it's a great way to cool off. In Vallus I was tempted to take my shoes of and soak my feet but in the middle of a village I thought it might be seen as a bit rude. Was disappointed in the dogs who were very half hearted in their barking, wanted to add to my "barking dogs of Europe" series of pictures, but as soon as I lifted my camera they turned shy.

Just past Vallus I got my first view of yesterday's Buddist Pagoda at Zalaszanto, must have walked 25 kilometres since then but such is the meandering nature of the route that it was now only about six kilometres to the north-west. The village of Rezi, past yesterday afternoon was probably 3 kilometres to the west. Got three kilometres closer to Budapest in 24 hours!

The route did start to head east after that and above Varvolgy I was able to get some of the longest views I've had so far in Hungary. In particular I saw Lake Balaton for the first time to the south and little mountains to the east which I think are ancient extinct volcanoes (the castle at Sumeg, yesterday's start point sits on one of these). With all the humidity in the air however the views were very misty.

Lake Balaton hazy in the distance

After ice-cream and cold drink at Lesenceistvand the final test was a walk along a hot and fairly busy road to Topolca. Not pleasant, the only good thing about it was that the ground was covered quickly.

Trusty Friend

Staying at a central hotel, the Hotel Gabriella, which has air conditioning. Brilliant. Got there at about 4.

It is great to be getting interest from readers in Hungary. The hits on the site have not been as high since I first started. Can I thank everyone who responded to my plea for advice on accommodation. Incredibly comprehensive. Have also had some direct help on arranging bookings. The most important thing is that I now know where I need to worry and where I don't.