Monday 15th Graf Meran Haus to Neuburg

Given the terrible weather forecast, was keen get of the high mountains as quickly as possible so it was an early breakfast and out if the hutte by 7.20. Slightly strange breakfast, I think some of our walkers were pilgrims and keen to get out and up to the cross on the Hohe Vietsch while others, including the bearded mascot, were on their second beer before we left.

Graf Meran Haus drinker

Wonderful early morning walking, high open moorland type scenery, huge views.

Early views leaving Graf Meran Haus

Started to look dodgy quite quickly and perhaps I was looking for bad weather which in the end didn't actually arrive. Was accused of going too fast by Christine.

Dropping down a bit, the open countryside turned into pine forest with the track taking us along one ridge and then another. Despite walking through pine trees it was a pleasant walk, soft underfoot with a series of gentle climbs and descents. Although the anticipated rain didn't materialise I still wanted to press on and the main problem was keeping Christine moving through the periodic patches of wild raspberries. I thought they were too small to bother with but she just wanted to gorge herself.

Lots of tree walking

After the Hochschwab this part of the E4 isn't so well walked and the trail is not well marked. I was now depending on footpath signs for navigation as had run out of map, and at times finding them was like hunting for treasure. We were determined not to press on without a sign but, particularly where there had been recent forestry work, they seemed carefully hidden.

Eventually and after some particularly poor signage we were heading into Krampen which is where I expected to find a gasthof and, after three night's without a decent wash, a shower. Shock horror no gasthof. We didn't have the energy or cleanliness to press onto the next hutte which was another two hours away (although it was only 2.30 at this point). We were also struggling to figure out how Christine was going to get out of the mountains and catch her flight on Thursday if she stuck with me for another three nights of huttes. We decided we had to find a town and decided to end down the valley to Neuburg.

Even this didn't turn out to be as simple as we had hoped. My out of date guide said Neuburg had a railway station but when, after the best part of hour we got there, we found it was long closed as was the gasthof in the centre of the village.

We followed a sign to accommodation high above the village but it to seemed closed. Patience was running out. Wandered round the back and found the owner. She said yes they were closed but that they could find us a room, the restaurant was shut but she could find us some eggs and bread if we didn't mind managing for ourselves. It has all worked out very well, great room.

By 4 o'clock the skies opened and the rain came pouring down. Slightly later than forecast I still feel vindicated that we pressed on and got out of the high mountains before the weather changed. Hope it improves a bit before tomorrow. I will be on my own again for the last bit of the Alps before heading down again for the final three week run to Budapest.

Sunday 14th August Voisthaler Hutte to Graf Meran Haus

Would have been perfect if we had had today's weather yesterday. The early morning sun was wonderful but instead of going up we were heading down into the valley, with cloud sitting at the bottom of it. Had a great walk however,covered more ground than we anticipated, and finished the day at an 1800 metre hutte with great views across the valley.

Shared our room with a couple of other people last night but we both slept well. Up early and out by 8.15 to start the long trek down the valley. The valley/gorge was a continuation of the amazing feature we had enjoyed at the end of yesterday but looked even better in the morning sun. We met a steady stream of people coming the other way, more and more of them, some from Vienna and others more local but all wanting to enjoy the Hochschwab on a sunny bank holiday Sunday. When we got down we walked past a huge collection of parked cars, showing how popular this area is for weekend walkers.

Heading down to Seewiesen

Looking back up to Voisthaler Hutte

A strudel stop at Seewiesen, surrounded by a group of leather clad bikers amused by Christine's choice of head gear, and then a really steep climb up through pine trees up to Seeburg.

After Seeburg an easy walk along pretty valley towards Gotlacher Alm. Lots of families with small children enjoying the scenery and weather.

Leaving Turnauer Alm

We were now walking through a mix of alpine pasture and woodland, easy walking and to be honest given the scarcity of fine weather we really would have liked to be higher and completely out of the trees.

At about 2.30 we stopped at Turnauer Alm for lunch. The plan had been to stop here for the night but it seemed too early and given the great weather the poor forcast for tomorrow we decided to press on. The target was Graf Meran Haus, near the top of Hohe Vietsch, a climb of around 500 metres.

The signs were really confusing giving different timings and this added a certain tension to the decision to press on. I said it should take about 2 hours but some of the signs were suggesting a lot longer. The last part of the walk was a savage very steep open climb. Happily the hutte was just past the ridge and we were drinking beer by 4.45.

Climbing up to Graf Meran Haus 

The Graf Meran Haus turned out to be a special place. High up, amazing views, sharing the sunset and the rising of a full moon with a group of easy going, fairly well oiled walkers, exactly what makes this sort of walking special. Music is a feature of the huttes in this part of Austria and a stream of hikers were ready to pick the hutte accordion and blast out a folk song.

Good fun evening as well. Centre of attention was a full bearded ancient Austrian male who seemed to be hutte mascot (although given his beer consumption, a very expensive mascot). Was very interested in the English and kept trying to persuade us to sing, but everyone else was doubled up with laughter so we suspected we were the subject of the joke. A particularly kind fellow walker did the interpretation but he had wonderful manners and I'm sure a certain amount was lost in translation.

Looking forward for shower, three huttes in a row and this one, although it had plenty of beer, had no water and no electricity. Nice room though, no sharing tonight.

Saturday 13th August Sonnschien Hutte to Volsthaler Hutte

So straight to the heart of it, a truly embarrassing navigational cock-up, embarrassing in particular because for once we were not able to keep the blunder a secret.

And the mist descends

Parties to the blunder are: atrocious weather conditions, rain, hail and visibility down to ten yards; an emergency prefabricated cabin (like a work mans' hut at the side of a UK road) at Fleischer-Biwak on the map below; the summit Hochschwab; and Schiestl-hutte, also on the map below.




After a reasonably fine start the weather got really bad. Firstly the mist came down so we couldn't see a thing, then it started to rain, and then with hail it got really cold. At about 11.30 we passed the Fleischer-Biwak (workmans hut ) and it was crammed with cold wet walkers huddled together for warmth. No room for 2 bedraggled Inglisches. In the mist we had no idea whether we had climbed the Hochschwab, which at 2277 metres was the second highest point on my version of the E4 trail, but as we were soon climbing steeply again it was apparent that we hadn't.

Christine was grimly marching on and went straight past a sign saying Hochschwab, I thought she had done this on purpose as why would you go high in this weather? The route she was following was for the Schiestl-Hutte, on the way to Vosthaler Hutte our final destination. 30 minutes later we see a sign saying 1 hour 30 for the Vosthaler Hutte. Encouraged we pressed on. Slightly surprised we hadn't seen Schiestl-Hutte and more surprised we were still going up rather than down, we carry on in our misty cocoon. Another 30 minutes latter we reach a summit with a cross, I rationalise this by thinking there must be a second Hochschwab type summit, although can't remember this from the map (much too wet to get it out), and start to head down the other side. We get to a junction which disappointingly doesn't give us the time to Vosthaler Hutte. Instead a sign says Schiestl-Hutte. Seeing our bemused look a man says we could go the other way to Vosthaler Hutte but it's a very steep descent and instead suggests we go to there via the Schiestl-Hutte route. After a few minutes along this route Christine objects, fed up and wanting to just get there, and says let's go down the steep route so we retrace out steps. After 100 metres or so down the steep route we see an emergency prefabricated cabin full of people sheltering from the rain...... two on the same mountain! A few yards later I see a sign to Sonnschien Hutte and at last smell a rat. We are back exactly where we started from about 90 minutes earlier.....and heading back to where we came from!

Force our way into the shelter and after a few conversations our 360 degree trip is confirmed. The mist begins to lift in every sense. All of a sudden we realise we have walked around, climbed, and come down again back to the starting point. Christine didn't think it was very funny.

So back we went retracing our steps ( and did some bits for the third time). by now we were very cold and tired so it was a blessing when about 20 minutes later the cloud lifted and we started to see our surroundings properly for the first time for hours. There ahead of us round a curve on the side of the mountain was the Scheistl Hutte standing proud overlooking a valley. Couldn't miss it.

We laboured on, feet and hands still numb, and started down a long steep trail. The initial uplift generated by knowing where we were evaporated as the reality of a tricky climb down started to bite. The air filled with groans, moans and curses which is how Christine usually copes with such adversity.

Almost as if to tease the sky cleared and the full drama of the landscape was revealed. The huge cliff up to Hochschwab now dominated the skyline and on top you could make out the cross we had walked around a couple of hours earlier.

To the east of Hochswab

Down to the Voisthaler Hutte

Once down we spent the last 30 minutes walking along a magnificent dry limestone valley down to the Voisthaler Hutte. Chatted to a charming Austrian couple who were in the Sonnschien Hutte with us last night. He had the maps and route on his IPhone, really good value. If we had had that we wouldn't have got lost. The product wasn't available when I left England in March. It's time I got home.

By the way, before it started to rain this morning, we saw mountain goats, the local name is Steinbock, they had a very strong goaty smell.

Steinbock

Friday August 12th Eisenerz to Sonnschien Hutte

Great walk today, bit harder than expected, felt like it was uphill all the way, but got to the hutte in good time and the evening, as I write, is getting increasingly surreal.

Left Eisenerz with no regrets. Last night was definitely the worse meal we have had in Austria, really bad. I know you shouldn't condemn a nation's food on the basis of one meal but we experienced all its worst features at once - lots of processed meat, dreadful overcooked vegetables, and salad drowned in 2 inches of water. Miserable food.

Struggled momentarily to find our way out of town but met a helpful guy who
directed us to the right path. Coincidentally he was also making for the Sonnschein Hutte but by another route (starting with a short bus ride, he told us). He was loaded up with a bag, a proper Austrian walker, put us on the right track, and we are exchanging views about the Austrian walking again as I write.

After a short climb heading north out of Eisenerz the route takes you past the Leopoldsteiner See then gently up a good track through a stunning valley with high limestone cliffs to the north and south. Gorgeous walk with a pretty stream following the path and great views up to the mountains on either side.

Long valley up Hintersee Graben

Huge Limestone Cliffs

Eventually the gentle walking finished and path head relentlessly upwards, still a good path but really steep and energy sapping. Not sure why but the climb seemed much tougher than suggested by the 700 metres ascent. The heat may have had something to do with it - by now it was red hot with the sun beating down.

Approaching the Sonnschien Hutte

We eventually reached a high alpine meadow and stopped for lunch, the usual ham roll finished off with chocolate. Then on, along a high alpine path up and down over limestone until we turned a corner and came across an 'alm', a wooden hut with a guy dishing out various forms of alcohol to a crowd of well satisfied local walkers, who had clearly been there for some time. The men, some with large beery bellies benefiting from long exposure to the sun, all seemed to want to give Christine a kiss, a long way to climb for such a reception.

The final stage of the walk was through more alpine meadow, and for once we didn't seem to be climbing, a lovely easy walk, and by 3.30 we had arrived at the Sonnschien Hutte.

Man with Harmonium

Despite being a Friday night, not too many people staying here. We have the dormitory (or 'lager') to ourselves although there are another 8 or 9 people scattered about in different rooms. Included in that number is a man who clearly comes here regularly and is an expert on the harmonium.  A very generous man he has copious supplies of a local resin spirit and of snuff which he insisted on sharing liberally with the inmates. We have all been sitting here for the last 3 hours quite happily chatting in broken English / German, drinking, humming along to traditional Austrian music and waiting for the very laid back hutte staff to dish up the requested potatoes and sausage. Maybe it will arrive after the next beer.

Thursday August 11th Radner an der Stube to Eisenerz

It's a happy coincidence that all the really tough walks for Christine have been followed by something less demanding and that's exactly what happened today. After yesterday's nerve shattering epic a nice 20 kilometre walk up a easy track over a ridge (about a 700 metre climb) and then down the other side, through a valley to Eisenerz was just what was needed.

Got all my clothes washed in the gasthof last night and either it was free or they forgot to charge me and walking up the hill this morning I was struck with remorse because I had forgotten to say thank you. It was a basic but fun place and very cheap. We had the top of the range "Gordon Bleu" main course - essentially a wiener schnitzel folded in half with ham and cheese in the middle - twowould probably give you an instant heart attack.

Lagauer above Radmer

The weather was perfect and walking up through the trees we had great views back to the village and the Lagauer mountain the descent from which caused us so much grief yesterday.

The weather bought out lots of walkers and we passed the time with three local men. The news about the riots in London had left them with the impression that the whole city had burnt down and that we might be refugees on the run. We tried to confirm that impression and Christine said that all she had left was in her backpack.

Once over the ridge and just around the corner we got full view of Hochkogel and Kaiserschild, two 2100 metres summits set off to perfection by the sun and the blue sky. They were positioned at the top of a quiet valley at the end of which which was a Gasthof serving cake and strudel, perfect for an early lunch.

In the valley heading down to Ramsau

Another 90 minutes or so took us to the outskirts of Eisenerz a town with a long history of iron ore extraction and whose skyline is dominated by a huge but now disused quarry. The town feels just a bit run down. We are staying in a huge Gasthof but have the feeling that we might be the only people here.

The quarry at Eisenerz

Weather forecast for the next two days at least is good and then it might deteriorate again. The schedule puts us up in the mountains again with three nights in huttes over a weekend. Suspect we will be desperate for some privacy and home comforts after that.

Wednesday 10th August Hess Hutte to Radmer

Christine has just said that she would give her eye teeth not to do today again.

The adventure started before we even left the hutte. All through the night a storm raged and, as the fifteen or so walkers gathered for breakfast glances' suggested, no one was desperate to step out into the gale. We were wrong footed, we thought everyone was about to go only to discover that we in fact were the pioneers.

The first thing to hit us was the wind. The hutte is in a very exposed location and as soon as you stepped away from the immediate shelter of the building you thought you were going to be knocked over. Not helpful given that the path we had to walk along was narrow, stoney and wet. We hesitated, thought about going back into the hutte, but a retreat was just too embarrassing so we pressed on.

Sulzkarhund

The second thing to hit us was the cold. It was hailing and despite having all my gear on, my hands and feet quickly got cold. Fortunately the first part of the walk involved a 300 metre climb over a ridge at Sulzkarhund and the effort of the climb warmed us up.

After an equally steep descent down into the valley to Sulzkaralm on the other side of the ridge things started to settle down just a bit. The wind dropped and the rain and hail died away, we even got an occasional glimpse of sun. Perhaps the worst of the walk was over.

Sulzkaralm

In fact by the time we got to the bottom of the valley, having dropped from 1800 metres down to 1100 metres, the walk was almost getting a bit boring if not necessarily comfortable. It was still drizzling and the cloud was hanging low limiting the views of the mountains to occasional glimpses. The route took us in a semicircle on a forest road making for a easy climb back up to 1400 metres.

Things then started to get tougher. The first challenge was a climb through a recently cleared forest. The track was hard to follow through a mess of left over branches and churned up ground. The next challenge was a two kilometre climb up through water logged meadow where the path had been trampled by cattle. By the time we got past it our feet were completely soaked.

Rain soaked ground

The climb took us right up to the face of the Lugauer, a sheer cliff rising up to its summit about 500 metres above us. We were now back to 1700 metres and the official E4 route dropped down 1000 metres to Radmer a couple of kilometres away. Christine refused to believe the way it was taking us. The first part of the descent ran steeply down unstable scree down the side of the summit face. Very scary walking. Rocks the size of medicine balls moved as you stepped on them and made you feel that everything could fall away taking you with them. Far below was the valley and between it and us was a huge drop. Both of us would definitely have preferred to be somewhere else but with no choice we just inched our way down the 20 minutes or so it took us to get past this moving rock field.

Under the Lugauer

Very Steep

The rest of the walk down was a lot easier but still a challenge. It was obvious that this is a path not often used. Wet vegetation was waist high making it hard to spot hazards (roots, holes, rocks) below. Above all it was slippery with both of us crashing to the ground several times before at last we hit a forest road just above Radmer.

Saw lots of wildlife today by the way, particularly deer and chamois. Got particularly close to a family of chamois scrambling over rocks just before we started the dreaded descent underneath the Lagauer.

Mountain goats on the Lugauer

Fortunately we found the gasthof in Radmer quickly, got out of wet things and had a shower. The weather forecast is better for the next three days a least and perhaps we can have a few easier days.

Tuesday 9th Modlingerhutte to Hesse Hutte

Great news, today it didn't rain, well didn't rain much, and we were able to walk all the way without wearing waterproofs. The weather is still not settled however and, from the shelter of Hess Hutte, we have just watched a hail storm lash it's way across the mountainside.

Really nice walk, very civilised and not too far, 7 hours, about 20 kilometres with 1,000 metres of climb. Unless we get lost there shouldn't be any more of the 10 hour days we did last week. We left Modlingerhutte at 8.15 and were having beer, fried potatoes, saur kraut and sausage in Hesse Hutte by 3.15.

Must say we are getting into hutte accommodation. The food is plentiful and there is a good atmosphere. Washing facilities are variable (no hot water tonight), but it seems less important when everyone is in the same boat. Based on my experience, if you avoid Friday's and Saturday's the huttes are never more than a third full and at that level of occupancy even a dormitory is tolerable. The best thing about them is the location - on the route, in the mountains and often dramatically positioned on a ridge or under a cliff.

Modlingerhutte had a nice location but it's special feature was its cakes and puddings. I am becoming a strudel expert and this was one of the best, all the extra bits (almonds, raisins etc) and a supersized portion - excellent.

Modlingerhutte

The walk itself was in three parts: a steep knee testing walk down to Johnsbach; a gentle climb up the Johnsbach valley, mostly alongside a river, and then a long climb up a side valley to Hesse Hutte.

The highlight of the descent were the increasingly dramatic views of Grosser Odstein on the northern side of the Johnsbach valley. Initially it was surrounded by swirling clouds but for a short time these cleared giving visibility of the whole mountain.

Hochtor

Stopped for a coffee in Johnsbach at the Donner Gasthof; we would have stayed there last night if we had made it down from Modlingerhutte and it looked like it would have been an excellent choice.

The early part of the walk from the valley bottom up to Hesse Hutte went through meadows and we saw our first ever alpine bull. Roger and Sue of course saw one a couple of weeks ago and I must admit I was slightly sceptical. Anyway our bull was munching grass about half a metre from the path and didn't even look up as we worked quietly past him.

Friendly Bull

We enjoyed the walk up to Hesse Hutte. A steady climb, steep in places but a good path. The huge cliffs, initially beneath Grosser Odstein and the Hochtor summits, were somber, even slightly sinister, but definitely gave you the feeling of being out in the wild.

Above Hesse Hutte

Any sense of isolation was completely shattered when we got the Hutte. It felt like the crowd of Austrian walkers had been enjoying the bar all day and we were just a bit suspicious of their attempt to persuade us to have the mountain goat soup which they claimed to be the special. As already mentioned, we chose sausage, fried potatoes and saur kraut and very good it was too.

My camera by the way is completely useless, I'm now using Christine's. The challenge will be to recharge the battery.