To the Lizumer Hütte

Dear Christine, I sorry/happy to report that today you missed a great walk. The journey along the main ridge of the Tuxer Alps lived up its billing as one of the best days on the journey from Munich to Venice. Perhaps not as good for my money as the main day in the Karwendel, or indeed the days in the Dolomites, but epic none the less.
On the ridge above the Glungezer Hütte

Firstly more information on last night's Glungezer Hütte. The food, including the breakfast was really good, much better than the usual hut fare and restaurant standard. It's amazing that a hut that can't provide enough water to let its guests have a shower can dish up such wonderful grub. Although the food was much better than expected I didn't sleep well, it was just too hot. There were all the usual noises and smells plus a very creeky floor which was constantly being disturbed as people went to empty their beer swollen bladders.
Light weight hiking
So as well as being unwashed I was feeling knackered as I left the Hütte at 7.15 as well as glad to get away. Ahead of me were three young Germans and as usual, playing silly mind games, I was determined not to let them get away.  The walking was tough, hard going in fact, and like snow flakes no two steps were the same. It was a ridge walk very much like the one we experienced on the approach to the Tutzinger Hütte on the first day in the mountains last year, near the Benediktenwand, all up and down, loose rocks and lots of scrambling. We definitely did the right thing when we went a different way to Lizumer Hütte and today's walk shouldn't be attempted in bad weather. By the way I was told last night that 2014 was the wettest year in the Alps since records began which I reckon makes our achievement something to crow about.
Hard work on the first half of the walk
Unlike last year the weather today was perfect, almost the same as yesterday with clear skies and a gentle cooling breeze. I was down to shorts and T-shirt after about 40 minutes.
I stuck with the three Germans only to be joined by a forth one carrying a tiny pack and like me wearing trainers.  This was a real speed merchant and soon the group was spread out across the mountain.  We all regrouped on top of the Rosenjoch (2796m) the highest of the six little summits climbed along the ridge and took pictures.  The views were excellent. To the northwest we could see the Zugspitze in Germany, to the southwest we were looking down into the Brenner Pass and beyond that Italy and to the southeast the huge white Hintertux glacier dominated the horizon.

After the Rosenjoch the walking became a lot easier and apart from a few treacherous descents easy. I went ahead with the speed merchant (Gerald) who turned out to be an interesting young man who amongst other things has walked the length of New Zealand and is planning a trip along the Pacific Crest Trail.
One of 7 mini-summits
We arrived at Lizumer at about three o'clock and despite some lengthy stops about 30 minutes ahead of schedule. I had soup with two different sorts of dumpling, each the size of a cricket ball and then went for a much needed shower. Lizumer you will recall is a modern hut with good facilities. Not sure if you remember the Tiawanese woman who runs the place with her husband but she has a smart new haircut. Also still here is the enormous slobbering dog.
Mormots resting in the sun

At last - Lizumer

After last night I've splashed out and instead of paying 11 Euros for the dormitory payed 16 for a place in a four berth zimmer. I will let you know if this improves the lack of sleep situation.


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  2. Hi John, what a fantastic walk and so wish I was there. Ridge walks are the best. Trust you to pal up with the fastest guy. Did the Taiwanese woman not tempt you with her 3 course set menu this time then?!