Munich to Venice - how tough is the Traumpfad?

One of the first question's most people ask before deciding to go on a trek like Munich to Venice is 'can I do it?'.

To be honest I had a bit of a 'discussion' on this issue with Cicerone who felt that only the experienced should attempt a walk across the Alps.  The trouble was this didn't fit with the sort of people I met on my transalpine journey many of whom had never done a long distance hike before.   All sorts of walkers were doing the trip: lots of young people with very little money; lots of older people, particularly the recently retired on their first post-work adventure; and, as well as couples, lots of single people, including solo women.  It wasn't hiking experience that these people had in common, it was a sense of adventure.

A sense of adventure the key requirement

Munich to Venice - what's the Traumpfad route like?

There is more to the Traumpfad than a north-south traverse of the Alps, but the mountains cannot help but dominate the experience.

The Hintertux Glacier in the Zillertal Alps

The whole trip will take most walkers 30 days to complete and it only takes two and half, walking alongside the River Isar, to get from Munich to the mountains. You are then in the Alps for the next 20 consecutive days (depending on the choices you make about how you stage your journey). When you emerge you follow the River Piave and it takes another five days of flat walking to get to Venice.

The Traumpfad - Munich to Venice

Introducing the first English Language Guide to Munich to Venice

­­­­If yo­­­u ask a German hiker how to get to Venice the chances are they would tell you to go to Munich, find the Marienplatz, then head south across the Alps on Der Traumpfad (the Dream Way).  Thirty days later after the trip of a lifetime, you’ll have swapped the crowds of Munich’s busiest square for what Napoleon described as the ‘drawing room of Europe’, the Piazza San Marco. 

On the ferry approaching the Piazza San Marco

Der Traumpfad has the same must-do status for German walkers that the coast-to-coast has for the British. Each year hundreds of people take up the challenge and set off from Munich on a trans-alpine adventure.

Munich to Venice - an Australian's Experience

Guest blog from Sean Paul.  Sean is a 19 year old Australian who completed the hike from Munich to Venice in 2015.  Although keen on the outdoors, this was his first trip to the Alps and the first time he had hiked for more than 4 days. 

Australians by nature tend not to be mountain faring folk. Whether it be our generally flat geographical disposition, our love of the beach and open plains, our laid back and easy going temperament or a combination of all, we are just not that suited for the mountains. Maybe I am over generalising, although the Germans, Italians, Israelis and even other Australians I met while away all seemed to look at me with the same slightly confused, slightly amused look that you would give a ski instructor at Bondi beach. But there comes a time in every boy’s life when he wants to do something that blurs that line between adventure and foolishness, for me that was to hike from Munich to Venice by myself with the assistance of a German guidebook.

Back on the "Dreamway" 2015

In September 2015 I was back in the Alps doing final research for my 2nd guide - "Munich to Venice - the Dreamway'.  I was on my own, Christine was stuck in Brighton nursing a broken foot, but the trip was a great success and provided some new perspectives on the Munich Venice experience.  So what did I learn.

Firstly a year can make a big difference.  Last year was exceptional, the worst weather in living memory and snow lingered on the passes in late August.  I'm not sure if this year was normal, but the weather was perfect.  Instead of snow fields, streams swollen with melted water where this year's challenge.   Last year's trip was fantastic but the 'Dreamway' in the sunshine is even better.

Junsee 2014

Junsee 2015

Secondly Munich to Venice is a good trip for solo walkers.  Now I know what it's like walking on your own - I walked most of Tarifa to Budapest trip alone - but it's a different experience on a popular route like Munich to Venice staying in crowded huts where everyone speaks German. Sometimes you can feel uncomfortably conspicuous alone in a crowd.  On the Dreamway this wasn't a problem - the Germans speak English, there were other solo walkers and the common interest in walking meant that conversation and associations came easily.  Socially it was great fun.

To Belluno

Dear Christine, I'm now in Sillian in a very comfortable hotel preparing to take on the Karnischer Höhenweg. Since leaving Stein four days ago I've traveled to Passo Duran, crossed the Schiara-Gruppe, walked down to Belluno and journeyed by bus and train across to Sillian. I quite like mixing up a bit of travel with the walking, I love it when all the different bits come together.

Mt Pelmo

To Stein

After such a big day yesterday today's walk to Stein was a more civilised 7 hours. I had booked accommodation at the Stein Gasthof when I was in Hall and as things turned out it was a good job I did.

Geraer Hütte

The main event was the climb over the Alpeiner Scharte the pass over the main ridge immediately to the east of Geraer Hütte. Completely in shadow it was a fairly easy climb although some scrambling near the top would have been a challenge to some people.  On the way up we saw some interesting birds, similar size to pheasants but with a white speckled plumage. Almost at the pass itself was the remains of a mine which ominously had last been worked between 1941-5.  Even more ominous and more exciting was a large and very noisy rock fall, a safe distance from us, but spectacular.

Old mine above the Geraer Hütte

To the Geraer Hütte

Dear Christine, sorry to be out of touch for a day or so but last night I was just too knackered to engage my brain. Yesterday was one of those mad epic days I've inflicted on you in the past where the walking was wonderful but there was just too much of it.

Amazing views of the Hintertux Glacier from the Gierjoch

To the Lizumer Hütte

Dear Christine, I sorry/happy to report that today you missed a great walk. The journey along the main ridge of the Tuxer Alps lived up its billing as one of the best days on the journey from Munich to Venice. Perhaps not as good for my money as the main day in the Karwendel, or indeed the days in the Dolomites, but epic none the less.

On the ridge above the Glungezer Hütte

Hall to Glungezer

Dear Christine, you may be hobbling at home with a broken foot but today you dodged at bullet. Getting off the plane yesterday in Innsbruck after weeks slobbing in Brighton and then climbing 2500m on a hot day was a big ask and yes I suffered. You were worried about this first day and rightly so. Glungezer is the a very friendly hut but it's also the highest one on the whole Munich Venice route, has no running water and I'm sleeping in a packed dorm.

Catch the lift idiot!

The red German language Rother Guide, which all the Germans use on the Munich Venice route recommends taking a bus and a chair lift and avoiding most of the climb. Although this seems a cop out, having done it I can see its sense.  It's hard work and the route they recommend doesn't help. There is road walking at the beginning and a horrible stretch along the side of very steep piste (must be a black run). What's worse is the chair lift, the one your supposed to take, runs along side the piste. It's packed with walkers staring bemusedly down at the only person making the climb.

Munich to Venice - the 'Dream Way'

Known as the Traumpfad (Dream Way), the Munich to Venice trek enjoys a huge reputation  in Germany.  Does it deserve it? Having done it and despite walking 550 km and climbing 22,000m, during the worst Alpine summer in living memory, I can emphatically say that it does. I've crossed the Alps on foot many other times but this was the best.

The start

As a route it succeeds at many different levels. Great scenery is almost a given in the Alps but on the Dream Way it is exceptional, day after day. Climbing over the Karwendel, Tuxer and Zillertal Alps and passing through the Dolomites means you walk through the most spectacular mountain landscapes in Europe.  There is some flat walking at each end but, with Venice as the destination, who cares?

Day 26 Munich to Venice - Venice

Finished, all done and dusted, and after 525km and something like 22000m of climb we have arrived in Venice. It feels very strange, a whole bag of mixed emotions.  I'm relieved it's all over and looking forward to getting home, but already missing the prospect of setting off in the morning on another walk.

Leaving Jesolo

The last day from Jesolo was similar to the last four, long hot and flat. The first half involved a quiet walk along the bank of a river and the second a cycle way on the side of a road. We again crossed paths with the two German hikers we have been unable to shake off for the last three days, uncannily we seem to go everywhere together, even the to the same ice-cream shops where the choice is not exactly limited.

Days 24-25 Munich to Venice - Jesolo

We were warned by lots of Germans that the last part of the Munich Venice walk was not nice and had the impression that we would be walking along busy roads with lorries humming past. Although the last 48 hours have not been great walking, it wasn't that bad.

Three things dominate my memory of the last two days.

Firstly the levees. The countryside is totally flat and the route sticks limpet like to top of a never ending line of flood defences or levees bordering the river Piave. From the top of the levee, usually walking along a gravel or grassy path, you can see everything there is to see -field after field of maize or beans.

Endless fields of beans

Day 23 Munich to Venice - Ponte Della Priula

Yesterday's anticipation of the end of the walk may have been premature. If today is anything to go by the four days of walking from the mountains to Venice is going to be a real test of will.  Today we walked 27km in sweaty heat with a lot of hard surfaces.

Chewing the fat

Days 21-22 Munich to Venice - Tarzo

Arriving in Belluno felt like the beginning of the end; after a week in the wonderful Dolomites we're now on the final run into Venice. And the focus of the trip seems to have shifted from scenery to food.

It started last night when we found a little family osteria near the cathedral, the three owls I think, which served perfect Italian food in a really friendly way. We were all gushing about the meal and its amazing value, but when we tried to express our thanks with a tip they insisted on sending us on our way with complementary large grappas.

The weather was raining yesterday morning when we set off but it didn't seem to affect Christine's spirits. She was happily spinning her walking pole, which was closed but apparently not tightened, when the end section shot off behind her and narrowly missed spearing one of two smartly dressed police men. Fortunately or unfortunately, depending on your point of view they saw the funny side and we carried on our way without even an official warning.

Great waymarking out of Belluno

An easy forest trail

Days 19 - 20 Munich to Venice - Belluno

With the arrival of my cousin Chris and his friend Mike yesterday, the number of English people on the Munich to Venice walk has doubled. Although late, these reinforcements should help us cross the final bits of high altitude walking and reinforce the final assault on Venice.

Yesterday's walk was good. The weather was fine and the scenery excellent, classic Dolomites. Chris and Mike started a little fast for my taste and I rightly concluded that the speed was unsustainable; indeed one of them flagged seriously before the day was out.  For the first part we were joined by Marcus, a German Christine and I had walked with a couple of days ago, a really nice guy, but extremely fast and not a person you should sensibly use as a pace maker.

Marmalada on the horizon

Days 17 - 18 Munich to Venice - Passo Duran

The plan to stay three nights in our lovely lakeside hotel fell apart on day two as Christine's feet became increasingly itchy, and on the third morning we got back on the trail a day early.

The weather forecast was mixed to say the least. Possible rain in the morning and thunderstorms in the afternoon. In view  of  this we decided to take chair lift up from Alleghe reducing the climb to 600m and the length of the walk from 6.5 to 3.5hrs.

Rifugio Coldai

Day 16 Munich to Venice - Alleghe

Alleghe is a lake side resort sitting in the shadow of the huge Civetta mountain.  It's a very pretty place and our schedule involves here for three nights both to rest and to provide a contingency in case we got held up earlier on. Interestingly, although we did have bad weather and had to stop an extra night at Pfitscher Joch, the desire the avoid sleeping in the crowded Dolomite huts has meant we have caught up with the day we lost.

Perfect contour walk with great views of Marmolada

Day 15 Munich to Venice - Passo Pordoi

Continuing with our 'no-dormitory' strategy, today we crossed from the northern side of Sella Ronda to the southern side in one go and are now relaxing in a hotel at the Passo Pordoi.

Sassolungo

Day 14 Munich to Venice - Passo Gardena

Today has been a huge, wonderful day.  The weather changed just in time for us to enjoy what is the best scenery on the whole trip.  What's more, driven on by Christine's desire to avoid sleeping in a dormitory we have walked half way across the Dolomites to a small hotel on the northern side of the famous skiing circuit, the Sella Ronda.

Peitlerkofel in the sun!

Although we had been promised better weather it was the same old mist that greeted us this morning. Then, just as we thinking about waterproofs everything changed, the mist cleared and the huge Peitlerkofel, towering above the hotel was illuminated by the early morning sun.  We could hardly believe our luck.