The Indian Himalayan Grand Traverse - a Review

We haven't quite decided whether the Indian Himalayan Grand Traverse was our favourite ever trek but it's definitely up there with the very best.  It managed to combine novelty, adventure, great scenery and excellent company with good organisation

We've got Valerie Parkinson to thank for the idea of going on the trip.  Valerie is the Asia Base Manager for Exodus whom we met for the first time on the Annapurna Circuit last year. Valerie is a trekking legend.  She was the first British woman to summit Manaslu, has been working for almost 30 years in Nepal and Kashmir, and leads for Exodus on the development of new treks in the area.  After listening to the amazing account of her attempt on Everest we asked our usual question "what's your favourite trek" and without hesitation she came back with the "Indian Himalayan Grand Traverse".

So where is the trip and what makes it's so good?

The Indian Himalayan Grand Traverse crosses Ladakh, one of three provinces in the Indian state of Kashmir and Jammu.  Geographically it's in an interesting place.  Kashmir and Jammu is the bit of India that inserts itself into central Asia and, from geological point of view, Ladakh is really part of the Tibetian High Plateau.  It's very high and very dry with long cold winters and short hot summers.  It's also interesting from a geopolitical point of view. With the Indian Army facing up to the Pakistan and Chinese armies over contested borders, it's one of most militarised parts of the world.

Indian Himalayan Grand Traverse - Day 15 - Parang La base camp

Second full day in the Parang Chu and another wonderful one.  Essentially the same flat bottomed valley, huge cliffs on either side, occasional snow topped summits and, until late afternoon at least, perfect weather.  It's amazing how quickly you can get used to something.

Climbing the moraine

As usual the best walking is early in the morning when the light is at its best.  Today we had a small climb up onto some light gravelly moraine which almost crossed the valley.  Dwarf like bushes had spread across the surface all perfectly spaced from each.  Great views from the top back down the valley and last night's campsite.

Indian Himalayan Grand Traverse - Day 14 - Parang Chu (2)

We are now in the Parang Chu valley.  It's a huge feature, flat bottomed with towering latte coloured cliffs on either side and occasional views of even higher snow topped mountains above the cliffs. The route takes us along the bottom of the valley with side climbs over moraine when the river prevents an easier route.

It's a dramatic valley.  It reminds me very much of the western side of the Annapurna Circuit - the two or three days around Larjung (which the Nepalese claim as the deepest gorge in the world), but if anything, with the light brown cliffs and incredible erosion features and huge scree on each side, this is even more beautiful.  We also talked with Pete about his trip along the Mustang Gorge which he doesn't think is as good as this.