Guest Blog from Christine (the wife)

It's her indoors and it's only four and a bit weeks to blast off. I have to confess, I'm the kind of person who likes to be busy and I'm not exactly what you would call 'reflective'. So the prospect of John being away from the beginning of March until mid September is only just starting to sink in.

On the E4 in Austria
How will I fix those electrical goods when they conk out? How quickly will I feel terribly lonely? Will I recognise the hairy monster when I go out to join him on the walk? And the biggest one of all - how will we both feel at the end of it: is he going to be a different person? Will we click back together?

Clinging onto the E4 in Austria
One thing I do know. John's embarking on a wonderful adventure and I'm dead jealous. I'm also just a bit cross that he insisted on doing this in 2011 rather than wait till I was ready to abandon work and come with him. My initial theory as to his motives was that this was his way to stop me nagging him to 'do something'. But I now believe that he really wants to test himself and do this huge scary thing, and have the experience after to savour and share. And that's why I'm jealous.

An Austrian E4 meadow
Perhaps its as well I'm not joining him. I've just had my knee done and the Doc reckons I'm down to the last scrapings of cartilage in places. This salutary reminder of the ageing process suggests I'd be wise not to try this particular 5000k.

While John's away I am planning a number of displacement activities to keep me going - decorating the room in Hove which I hate (and which we argue about); knitting stuff for first grandchild due in June; having friends down for weekends and doing girlie stuff; getting that wetsuit out and swimming every weekend. But that won't stop me missing him.

So I shall be following the adventure through John's blog, just like everyone else. I've got my first 3 trips out to join him in Spain fixed, and am keen to get other slots firmed up. And be warned - I would really like to have him to myself when I go out, so please John mark the dates in red or something.

Christine




- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

I packed my bag and in I put

My bag

Getting into the final final countdown now and starting to put my gear together. Got my backpack today and I'm really pleased with it - it's an Osprey Exos 46.

Must admit I have been a big fan of Osprey bags ever since Christine and I bought their bags for our Haute Route trip eight years ago. It was the first time we had planned a place to place trip and carried our own stuff, and was such a brilliant adventure, that everything about it has taken on a sort of mythical status, including the bags.


Christine with bag with the Grande Combin in the background


It is amazing how much bags have changed in just eight years. The Osprey bags we bought were Eclipse 32s, and were pretty leading edge, but look really dated now. In particular the approach to compression has changed (the Eclipse has boards), the material has got lighter and even the straps and buckles have been downsized with the Exos.

Compared to anything else we saw at the time, it was clear that Osprey put a lot of thought into the design of their bags - call me simple but I just loved the whistle on chest strap. The functionality is still there but they have added loads more. Perhaps the biggest development is all the different compartments you now get. This means you can pack things in terms of frequency of use. Overnight stuff in the main bag, waterproofs in the rear zip pocket, food in the top bag and suncream, and possibly camera in the pockets on the hip belt.

The best thing about the Exos 46 is its comfort. Although it looks like a day bag, it comes with sort of aluminium frame you associate with bags designed for much heavier loads. While the mesh panel fits really snuggly on your back, everything is ventilated which should keep me cool as well as comfortable.






The picture above shows old and new sat side by side my front room. New not only looks really cool, but is less than half the weight of old with 30 per cent more capacity.  If anyone wants old let me know!

Hotel Support for the E4 Project

Have only just started to ask for support from hotels located along the E4 route and, so far, the response has been really encouraging. What I'm doing is emailing them, letting them know about the walk, and then asking them if they mind accommodating me free of charge.  Have only approached  hotels along the first couple of weeks of the trail and, so far, I have had positive responses from eight - so special thanks to:

The support is particularly welcome because a private sponsor has offered a 50 Euro contribution to the BNMT every time I get free accommodation.  I am of course hoping that everyone who makes use of the my E4 itinerary recognises how supportive these hoteliers have been and stays at their accommodation.    I'll also make sure that I provide a full report back on the facilities provided when I stay there -  they all look brilliant.


Hotel Castillo de Castellar
















The Olive Branch

Hotel Rural Paloma

Casa Henrietta














Hostal Rafi













Casa Pernias













Ubrique


















La Linda Tapada

The Plan - A day-by- day schedule for the E4 Walk

"The best-laid schemes o' mice an men
Gang aft agley"

I might be mad but I have a plan, a schedule of where I'm going to be every day of the E4 walk (attached to this link).  Although it's almost certain to go wrong, it's necessary for the people who want to join me (my wife, Christine for example) to plan their journeys and book leave.

I'm now pretty certain about the route and the stop-overs.  The main issue has been about rest days, how many to take and where.  There is a lot of conflicting advice on this. Some people saying I should stop on a regular basis (every 2 weeks for example), while others have said "crack on" and build up contingency to cope with the things that will inevitably go wrong.

My schedule combines both approaches (typical).  It's got 10 stop-overs in places that are accessible and where it should be possible to do some essentials, getting my hair-cut for example.   I'm planning to take two days in Tarragonna because it looks such a like a nice place and there is lots to see. 

If all goes to plan I should be in Budapest by the 8th of September, which is a couple of weeks earlier than I anticipated when I started planning. I want to get well past the Alps by August, so I have two to three weeks contingency. 

I've been particularly encouraged by Nat Severs' experience on his walk around the UK coastline (great blog by the way).  Nat describes how he struggled at the beginning with 20 miles a day, but after a while found 30 miles easy.  I know Nat is 30 years younger that me, but I'm not carrying anywhere near as much as he did, and only rarely will have to do 30 miles.

Stamina, I think, is one the attributes you can hold onto as you get older (my memory went years ago).  On my recent trip to Nepal, there was a big American who, at 67, played with the Kanchenjunga, and who, a couple of years ago, climbed Aconcagua in Argentina, which is just shy of 7,000 metres.  

Well the first person I need to convince is myself, and I have a plan!

I will get to:
  • Alacala la Real by the 14th of March;
  • Cazorla on the 21st;
  • Montanejos on the 18th of April;
  • Tarragonna on the 29th of April;
  • Carcassonne on the 21st of May;
  • Malataverne on the 8th of June;
  • Grenoble on the 18th of June;
  • Konstanz on the 13th of July;
  • Salzburg on the 31st of July;
  • Kozeg on the 21st of August;
  • Budapest on the 8th of September.
Of course all the things I will miss while I'm away are starting to become apparent.  Perhaps the best one will be the dodgy start my team usually makes to the football season - by mid-September, the mighty Spurs will be all guns blazing.

Budapest in September


The Britain Nepal Medical Trust Video

If you are interested in the work of the Britain Nepal Medical Trust (BNMT), the charity I'm trying to raise money for on the E4 walk, then please take the time to watch the video below.  Dr. Gillian Hodsworth, a BNMT Trustee, and Sadhana Shrestha, one of the BNMT co-directors, give a succinct introduction to the work of the charity and how it is addressing some of the key health issues in Nepal.

Dr. Gillian Hodsworth, who worked for the BNMT as a field doctor in the mid-eighties, is also an accomplished trekker.  In 2007 she raised money for the BNMT by completing a 71 day trans-Nepal trek. She can be regarded as a pioneer for the Nepalese leg of the emerging Great Himalaya Trail. This will eventually cross six countries and involve a 4500 kilometre journey going east to west.  The full story of Gillian's walk is on the BNMT website.


Child Malnutrition Project

Having met the Britain Nepal Medical Trust (BNMT) in Nepal a couple of weeks ago, they have now a sent a description of how they would like to spend the money if I'm successful in reaching my E4 fund raising target.  It's a really exciting project, inspiring for my walk, and hopefully something which will attract sponsors.
BNMT Hospitality

At the start of this I only had two criteria for the charity I wanted to work with.  Firstly to able to talk to them and try and develop something specific for the E4 project.  Secondly I wanted the E4 funding to go to something which might interest people who share my passion for trekking and walking.

On our recent Nepal holiday, Christine (my wife) and I met the people who run the BNMT and spent an afternoon talking about what they needed and whether or not we could help.  It was a brilliant afternoon and I learnt an enormous amount about how the BNMT works and, in particular, what makes it special.  I also discovered that money raised by a project like mine could be really important.
With the co-directors, Sadhana and Bhana

The BNMT is a Nepalese led charity, run by the Nepalese for the Nepalese.  More than 40 years old it operated through the civil war and is a key contributer to the difficult process of post-war reconstruction.

Being a Nepalese led charity has a huge upside in terms of successful projects but a downside when it comes to fundraising.  Obvious with hind-site, but a revelation to me when I met the BNMT in Kathmandu, is that a charity essentially based in Nepal finds it much harder to raise money than a western charity.  As a consequence the BNMT is much more dependent on funding from national and multi-national bodies like the EU than would otherwise be the case.

While the charity has been very successful in the delivery of programs from funding bodies there is less scope for innovation.  Funding from the E4 project, therefore, could be particularly important.
With the BNMT team

When we met, the BNMT had a number of projects that fell outside the criteria set by the funding bodies, but they were particularly keen on the "Community Based Child Nutrition Programme".  Since our meeting, and working around the constraints of the funding target I'm trying to hit, they have given it more thought and the detail of the program is can be found via this link.

I think it's brilliant and I just hope I can raise the money.

Given the interest we have in the west in child obesity, the fact that around 45 per cent of children under 5 in Nepal are underweight, and consequently stunted, is shocking.  Halving the proportion of people who suffer from hunger is part of the first of the 8 Millennium Development Goals and addressing the issue of children who are underweight  a specific target.  Malnutrition, of course, not only impacts a child's growth but is also a challenge to both their survival and cognitive development.

Central to the BNMT approach, and underpinning its commitment to sustainable health improvement, is the empowerment of individuals and communities through a "rights based" approach.  Essentially this involves raising expectations about health and using this to change behavior from all those involved in receiving and giving health related services.  The core elements of this approach will be used in the "Community Based Nutrition Program".

Working with a particularly poor (even in Nepalese terms) Musahar/landless community in the Kapilvastu District (Nepalese visitors may be familiar with the nearby the Chitwan National Park), the program will focus on raising the nutritional status of children under 5.

The attached program recognises that while food security is an issue, much can be achieved by getting people, throughout the "system", to raise their expectations and consequently change how they behave.  The program does have a "Feed the Meal" element but most of the activity will be with mothers, community leaders and people involved in health care.

If it works, and like all good programs there will be clearly defined ways of measuring success, it will have a sustainable impact.  By influencing the development of Government and donor programs  more widely, it can then be replicated.

Please let me know what you think about the project, either through the comments or by email.  I'm know the BNMT will be pleased to get any feedback.

Countdown to Tarifa

I'll be setting of from Tarifa, heading to Budapest, on the 1st of March. That's less than 12 weeks away. The countdown for the E4 walk has really begun.

Definitely having second thoughts, a lot more than just second thoughts to be honest. I did anticipate this a year ago when I started to put the idea together and deliberately wanted to paint myself into a corner. Coming out with the plan, giving up work, and making the commitment to the Britain Nepal Medical Trust were partly at least designed to prevent any last minute turnaround. The fact that it's worked doesn't reduce the anxiety however but it does mean that I'm definitely going. Tarifa here I come!

One excuse I could use to get out of it is that there is just too much to do. I could really turn planning the walk into a full-time exercise and never get round to actually doing it. Some of this is Parkinson's law applied to long-distance walking (although Murphy's law kicks in on the technology) but part of it is the amount of detailed information you could assemble for a 180 day work.

At the moment I'm working on three things:

• the detail of the walk - getting all the maps and navigation in order (paranoid about wasting time by getting lost);
• the actual schedule of overnight stops - really important for people who might want to join me, might even be a source of sponsorship;
• sponsorship - set myself a £20,000 target and only raised £2,000 so far so a long way to go - a lot of heavy pestering needed.

Getting lots of feedback from all over Europe which is nice, lots of emails as well as the comments. Going to try and blog more often as the walk gets nearer and build to a level I can sustain once I get started.