Stage 4 - The GR7 and E4 through Valencia

The 600 kilometres through the region of Valencia (which includes the provinces of Valencia, Castellon and Alicante) involved some of the best and some of the worst experiences of the whole trip.  Although not a particularly fashionable walking area some of it, particularly the northern part, deserves to be much better known.

It took me 21 days to walk through Valencia, starting on the 3rd and finishing on the 24th of April.  Walking up in the mountains, on a trail that ran parallel with the coast,  I experienced the lows of multiple bee stings, the adventure of an all night walk, and the highs of a series of specatular Castellon towns.  The weather was also mixed - really hot at the beginning and extremely wet at the end.  Not quite sure what I was expecting in terms of scenery but I was surprised by how good much of it was -  more of those dramatic gorges I got a taste for in Murcia.

Had an accurate GPS trail courtesy of Bornem and my way was generally not a problem.  Had found high level description on the route, in the form of a PDF, on the Valencian Tourist Board site and this gave me a stage breakdown for the walk and some timings.

The first day, from Pinosa to Elba, wasn't much fun.  A continuation of the fairly dull walking experienced since leaving Cieza.  If you are going to walk 5,000 kilometres you can't expect scenic fireworks everyday!  Elba was not a town I would choose as a destination for a weekend break - the hotel we had booked had closed down so others clearly shared the same view.

The next day was better and the scenery varied from good to excellent for the rest of the walk in Valencia.  No co-incidence I guess, as for the first time for several days the route though the Sierra de Castalla was again at around 1000 metres.  Fairly short walk, 22 kilometres to the pretty little town of Castalla (surrounded by large amounts of new housing development) with, appropriately, a hill top castle.  Stayed in the new and very pleasant Don Jose hotel.

Castalla

Excellent walk to the wonderful town of Alcoi, worth going there just for its amazing street lights.  Great walk through a gorge, up to the top of Menejador and through the Natural Park of Font Roja.  Beautiful and unique ancient woodlands including some trees which only exist in this part of Spain.  Lots of places to stay in Alcoi.

Montcabrer

Excellent 27 kilometre walk next day to the classic Spanish hill top town at Bocairent (just slightly of the trail).   The first third was the best with a walk through an increasingly dramatic gorge followed by a steady climb to the top of Montcabrer, wonderful limestone countryside with huge views.  It was then into the Sierra Mariola Natural Park and onto Bocairent where I stayed at the very nice Casa Rural Baretta.

Bocairent

The walk to Vallada was not quite as dramatic and nor is Vallada such a nice town as Bocairent, but still a good walk often on Moorish mule tracks.  Stayed in the Giners tourist apartments which were fine.

After Vallada and for the next few days the route starts to get difficult in terms of accommodation.

Borranc de Bocquilla

From Vallada, and after crossing the valley and the Rio Canyoles, you go through a wonderful gorge (the Borranc de Bocquilla) which goes on for mile after mile, a real surprise and a great walk.  You eventually climb out the gorge at El Chorrillo carrying on over the heath, drop down into a valley and back up again to Casa de Benali.  There is a Casa Rural there which might do accommodation later in the season but not in April and I had to get a 20 kilometre taxi to and from Enguera - a nice town but a long way off the track.

Next day is also difficult with no accommodation on the route until you get to Cortes de Pallas (55 kilometres from Casa de Benali).  The first metalled road to hit the route is about five kilometres after Caroche and this is the logical place to get a taxi to pick you up.  This was my bee sting day and other things also went wrong.  If you can get a taxi than the nearest hotel is in a town called Ayora and I afraid the hotel there is very poor and on Saturday the disco underneath went on all night.

If you have made it to and from Ayora than the next day to Cortes de Pallas is relatively straightforward, a good walk with nice accommodation at the end of it.  You are entering a really important area in Spain for energy generation, huge reservoirs and nuclear power stations, but the scenery is great, with one dramatic valley meeting another one. Stayed at the Hostal Casa Fortunata in Cortes de Pallas.

Towards Cortes de Pallas

Another difficult day for accommodation -  things went completely wrong as far as my schedule was concerned.  Had expected to stay at Milares but the accommodation didn't exist and meant an unanticipated night out of doors.  Avoiding my fate would involve either a 50 kilometre walk all the way through to El Rebollar and then a taxi or train to Requena or a short walk to Venta Gaeta and a taxi back Cortes de Pallas with a return to the same point the following day.  The lack of accommodation is a shame  because it's good walking, particularly nice stretch north of Venta Gaeta and the walk around the Pico del Mono.  Requena by the way is a large pleasant town with plenty of accommodation, about 10 kilometres to the west of the route.

Next day's walk to Chera (which is about 3 kilometres of the route) was not without incident either.  The route went through a large hunting estate and the management have decided to block it and cover the waymarks.  Without an alternative I climbed the fence and followed the route.  Chera has a hostal which was closed when I was there but there rooms above a local bar.

38 kilometres to Benageber but my navigational cock-ups and some confused waymarking just outside Chera added to the distance.  Continuing to cross empty countryside, usually along forest trails, through dry Mediterranean woodland (Aleppo Pine and Holm Oak) with a thick undergrowth of cistus and rosemary shrubs.  Savage if you need to go off the trail and cut through it.  The countryside is absolutely empty although there were odd bits of cultivated land with locals coming up from the village and working the land in near traditional ways.  Nice apartments to hire on a nightly basis in the bar in the small village of Benageber.

Benageber was the start of one of a really wonderful stretch of walking - comparable to anything in Andalucia - great countryside and lovely towns/villages.

Down to the Rio Turin

The first day in this purple patch involved a short walk to Chelva.  Around 5 kilometres east of Benageber you hit an absolutely amazing gorge, huge cliffs, with the Rio Turin running through the bottom.  You go almost straight down one side of the gorge and almost straight up the other - about 300 metres from the top to the bottom.  Dramatic scenery.  After climbing out the gorge, it's a pleasant upland walk, through the tiny village of Bercuta, along a forest trail and then down to the lovely ancient town of Chelva (with its old Arab quarter) where I stayed at the Hotel La Pasada.

Less fireworks the next day but still a nice walk and the twin villages of Andilla and La Pobletta were really lovely.  Stayed in a smashing casa rural attached to the restaurant opposite the church.  Really friendly and helpful.

Andilla

Short but lovely walk to Bejis next day, some great opportunities for outdoor swimming along the way and a couple of lovely villages to wander around (Arteas de Arriba and Arteas de Abajo).  The first part of the 23 kilometre walk you share with the GR 10 and I managed follow it instead of the GR7 before working out my mistake.  Bejis is in the province of Castellon (you have left the province of Valencia but you are still in the region of Valencia) and is one of a series of stunning hill top towns which now start to come thick and fast.  Stayed at the friendly and authentic Hostal Restuarant El Pita.

Bejis

My GPS route was a bid dodgy on this stretch and this, combined with poor waymarking, meant that I kept missing the route, frustrating on a hot day.  Still it was a good walk and the little town of Montan was a real reward at the day's end.  Stayed at Hostal Pilar, authentic, cheap and great fun.

Really short walk to Montanejos but spectacular.  The main feature is the Barranco de la Maimona, another dramatic gorge and a favorite venue for climbers and wild water swimmers alike.  The only bit of the walk in Spain where a head for heights was needed.  Montanejos itself is lovely, an ancient centre and a spa town with lots of places to stay.   Stayed in the Casa Palacios, a nice hotel built around a Moorish tower next to the church.

Barranco de la Maimona

After what was almost a rest day I got back into the saddle with a walk to Villermosa del Rio.  The first half  was great, through woodland covering recently abandoned terraces, down a valley and up to the lovely old village of La Artejuela and then onto the small town of San Vicente de Piedrahita.  After that the walk was dissappointing, a lot of road or near road walking almost until Villermosa del Rio where the scenary, with Penyagolosa (1815 metres) as a backdrop was once again spectacular.  Another lovely old town and Hostal Ruta Aragon another authentic hotel.

Next day was a special stretch of walking spoilt, when I was there, by bad weather. I really want to go back and do it again.  You go up a lovely long gorge (lots of wild life), past abandoned villages, high along the side of a cliff, past the old monastery of Sant Joan de Penyalagosa, onto a weird upland plain, before some more rugged country on your approach to Vistabella de Maestrazgo.  The rain was pouring down and I missed Penyagolosa but Vistabella de Maestrazgo was a great place to hide out in, another wonderful Spanish mountain town.

Leaving Vistabella de Maestrazgo           

The great walking continued next day (despite mixed weather).  Initially it's more high flat walking across yesterday's upland plain before heading down a long valley past more abandoned villages down to the dry Rio Manleon (dry when we were there).  It's then a steep walk up to Culla. where I think there is accommodation, but I stayed in the lovely little town of Benasal at the Hotel la Piqueta.

Benasal

Two stunning hill top towns in one day, Ares de Maestre and Morella, plus some great walking often along some remarkable ancient and really well preserved caminos. Accommodation at both places and the scenery and stopovers really justify going at a slower pace (particularly if you get better weather than I did).  Morella is the number one hill top town in these parts with a lot of tourists.

Ares de Maestre

So the last day in Valencia and the province of Castellon.  The GR7 continues north but the E4 heads down into Catalonia and the province of Tarragona.  Definitely didn't end with a wimper though and the high quality trail continued through to El Boixar.  Leaving Morella you have a bit of road walking to contend with but after that it's a steady climb up over a pass (great views back), along a ridge and down to Vallibona (lunch stop opportunity) before climbing up again to El Boixar where you leave Castellon. There is a casa rural in El Boixar or, if your staying on the GR7 a refuge a bit further along.  I went down the E4 into Moli L'Abad (which was much too far).

For a day by day, real time account of the walk go to the following walk diary entries:

3rd April Pinosa to Elba
April 4th Elda to Castalla
5th April Castalla to Alcoi
6th April Alcoi to Bocairent
7th April Bocairent to Vallada
8th April Vallada to Casa Benali
April 9th Casa Benali to Casa de Callado
April 10th Casa de Callado to Cortes de Pallas
April 11th and 12th Cortes de Pallas to Requena
April 13th Requena to Chera
April 14th Chera to Benageber
April 15th Benageber to Chelva
April 16th Chelva to Andilla
April 17th Andilla to Bejis
April 18th Bejis to Montan
April 19th Montan to Montanejos
April 20th Montanejos to Villahermosa del Rio
April 21st Villahermosa del Rio to Vistabella de Maestrazgo
April 22nd Vistabella de Maestrazgo to Benasal
April 23rd Benasal to Morella
April 24th Morella to Moli l'Abad

Stage 3 - The GR7 through Murcia

After 26 days walking through Andalucia I had belatedly started to work out just how long the E4 was.  The euphoria which had driven me along for the first few weeks was starting to drain away and I was looking for smaller tangible milestones to sustain me.  One step at a time didn't quite cut it but ticking off another Spanish province would help and fortunately Murcia was a small one.

Less fashionable as a walking destination than Andalucia, Murcia still looked interesting.  Arguably it has an even stronger historical legacy.  It was an important part of the Carthagenian empire (Categena on the coast is still a major port), a wealthy part of the Roman empire and for a time an independent taifi (kingdom) within the Arab world.   The northern part of Murcia, where the E4/G7 route crosses the region, contains a number places of particular significance to Catholics with Caravaca de la Cruz designated as one of the five most important places in the catholic world. 

Unlike the GR7 in Andalucia there is no English language guide for the GR7 in Murcia so I was now relying on my own research efforts (something I would have to do for the rest of the E4).  My key piece of information was a GPS route from Wikiloc published by a cyclist.   As a matter of interest "Bornem", whose route I was to use for the rest of the GR7, has now completed the walk through Murcia and the route is now available via his website on Wikiloc.

The route through Murcia is about 200 kilometres long.  There is a variant to the GR7 which takes you to the south side of the Sierra de Moratalla mountain range to Caravaca de la Cruz, I stuck with the main route.

GR7 through Murcia

The first challenge was to get to Canada de la Cruz, until I got there I didn't have a GPS route.   The route is not clear and a large hunting estate just outside Puebla de Don Fadrique acts as a barrier.  Essentially went cross country (which involved climbing over fences) and, without the aid of a route, got horribly lost.  As often happened my luck eventually turned and signs suddenly reappeared just a few miles from the village.  Shame about the route way marking because it's nice countryside.  There is some casa rurale accommodation at Canada de la Cruz but it not available when I was there and the cheapest option was a return taxi trip to Puebla de Don Fadrique.

Next day to El Sabinar was excellent.  The route takes you up and then along a valley between the Sierra de Taibilla to the north and the Sierra de Mortella to south, dropping into a gorge lined with rocks in stunning colours and then into wild windy upland plain - huge views.  I think there is a pension in El Sabinar, a tiny village, but I stayed just down the road in the wonderful boutique hotel at Casa Pernias.

View across the plain from El Sabinar

Lavender fields on the way into the Rio Alharaba gorge

The walk to Moratalla was another good one.  Starting in the high level plain from yesterday, you go past a huge reservoir near the small village at la Risca then dive down another dramatic gorge, with more colourful cliffs, with the Rio Alharaba at the bottom.  When I went through it new growth on the pine trees gave everything a clean fresh look.  Moratalla is an interesting town, a bit shabby, but with a lovely historic centre.  There is a hotel on the outskirts but I chose to stay in a cheap and cheerful town centre pension.

Spring growth on the trees in the Rio Alharaba gorge

Another short easy day mainly across an agricultural plain to the lovely town of Calasparra.  Calasparra is the home of a particular type of paella rice and the town has its own rice trail and museum.  Compared to Moratalla it had a prosperous feel but with a similar historic centre.  I stayed in the Hospederia Rural Constiticion, excellent and right in the middle of town.

Looking back to Moratalla

Next day's walk is excellent taking you along an east west ridge with wide plains to the north and south.  To the north runs the Segura river which I guess provides the water for the rice which makes the area famous.  You never get to climb to top of the ridge but contour along its side.  Half way along you cross the dam holding the water back at the Alfonso X111 reservoir before going around the Sierra del Almarchion the shape of which is particularly dramatic.  The Segura river flows around the ancient town of Cieza which surprisingly doesn't have any accommodation.  I stayed at La Linda Tapada which was lovely but a bit a trek out of town - the owner will pick you up on request.

Sierra del Almarchion

There is no accommodation on the next stretch of the walk and it's not that pleasant either.  A long stretch through the industrial suburbs to the north of Cieza, then through some dry scrub land and then huge fruit tree estates before hitting the motorway at Venta Roman.  I got a lift back to La Linda Tapada and staying there two nights.

The last day in Murcia is a bit better, the trail is good following an ancient camino across wide open and  empty spaces and if you like big skies it's a nice walk.  You cross the boundary into the region of Valencia just before you get to Pinosa, a small village with a big expat population and which has been speculatively over developed.

If you want to know what it felt like on a daily basis than have a look at the walk diary

Canada de la Cruz to El Sabinar
El Sabinar to Moratalla
Moratalla to Calasparra
Calasparra to Cieza
Cieza to Venta Roman
Venta Roman to Pinosa

Stage 2 Villanueva de Cauche to Puebla de Don Fadrique

From Villanueva de Cauche you have a northern and a southern option for the GR7/E4.  I chose the northern option, which is generally described as the less developed route, because, and without a lot of evidence, I thought there might be snow on the southern route in March.  I now know better and could definitely have walked either route.

In total my Stage 2 is 443 kilometres long, involves around 112 hours walking, and goes from Villanueva del Rosario through the Malaga and Jaen provinces and joins up with the southern option at Puebla de Don Fadrique where both options join before heading into Murcia.

A sea of olive trees

There are a lot of olive trees along this part of the walk.  Spain is the world's largest producer of olive oil and this part of Andalucia (Jaen in particular) is where much of it happens.  To be honest I got a bit fed up with olive trees.

Day one was mixed arable, not yet 100 per cent olive trees, and while it wasn't brilliant walking the trail was nearly all off-road.  I stayed at the wonderful Hotel Rural Paloma which is just off the route and couple of kilometres before you get to Villanueva de Tapia (near where the route crosses the main road) - don't miss it!

The next day, a short 20 kilometre walk but now 100 per cent olives.  Pleasant open countryside but olives as far as the eye can see. Villanueva de Algaidas, the day's destination looked a pretty dull town, although it was pouring with rain when I arrived.  The Hotel Algaidas is at the southern end of the high street.

After the rain the walk from Villanueva de Algaidas to Rute was tricky and sticky (with argillaceous mud sticky to everything).  Streams which needed to be crossed were in full flood and the route was at times very difficult to follow.  This was a shame because, despite the olive trees, this is pretty countryside with the route taking you through the lovely villages of Cuevas Bajas and Vadofresno.  Rute the final destination is also interesting, a centre for the production of anis, the whole town seemed to smell just slightly from the drink.  I stayed at the Hotel el Mirador which was OK but lacked any Spanish soul.

Spanish breakfast at Hostal Rafi

Nice walk to the lovely town of Priego de Cordoba the route takes you along two linked valleys.  Hard to find the route leaving Rute but important that you do as the route takes high up the side of the first valley and away from the road.  In the second valley it's along a quiet road still annoying because there is a lovely green lane running parallel to it nearly all the way.  Preigo de Cordoba is a lovely town with some amazing Rococo churches.  Stayed at the Hostal Rafi, a really nice hotel with a good restaurant.

Priego de Cordoba

After a 23 kilometre walk to Priego de Cordoba I chose to do a much longer, 35 kilometre walk to Alacala la Real.  Could have had a short day by stopping at Almedinilla but to be honest the walking was not that good so not that much to hold you back.  Quiet a lot of road walking although at times I may have walked along the road rather than the path because I missed the route.

Alcala la Real

Stopped for half a day in Alcala la Real staying at the Hotel Torrepalma.  Impressive castle towering over the town and from the top you can see the line of watch towers that marked an old border with the Moors.  A short afternoon stroll took me through the Alcala la Real suburbs to Frailes with accommodation at a wonderful bar in the middle of the village, really friendly, enormous portions of food and great fun.

Frailes to Carchelejo is a big but wonderful walk, 35 kilometres and 1300 metres of ascent.  Climbing steadily up from Frailes to the little village of Los Rosales your soon out of olive country and into open moorland where the agriculture is based on sheep.  Climbing up over a ridge with brillant views to the north you then into a empty and seemingly never ending valley before, after several hours, climbing up again over a ridge, past some amazing wind blown rock, with brilliant views of the Quiebrajano Reservoir, before getting onto moorland again and heading down to Carchelejo.  We stayed at the Mezquita de Magina Rural Apartments, whatever you do don't be tempted to walk onto the Hotel-Restuarant Oasis, its miles away.

GR7 above Frailes

Couldn't find anywhere to stay at Cambil, the walk for the next day, but the owner of the Mezquita in Carchelejo was happy to act as taxi driver.  Easy walk to Cambil, a very pleasant little town, although you do have to go underneath a motorway.  Recent comments on the blog suggest that the route may have got washed away in places so it might be necessary to make some local enquiries, as it was, even when we were there, the river along the valley looked a bit treacherous.

After a slightly dull walk to Cambil, the walk to Torres next day was much better.  Again you get to climb up out of the olive trees, this time into the Sierra Magina Natural Park, over a pass a 1600 metres with some amazing views back to the Sierra Nevadas, and then a long meandering walk down through trees to Torres.  A good walk.  Stayed at the Hotel-Restaurante Jurinea which was excellent.

Albanchez de Ubeda with castle above

The walk to Jodar is a good one going through some nice countryside and visiting the lovely towns of Albanchez de Ubeda and Bedmar both of which are stop-over options.  Jodar is an "interesting" place, nice town centre but the rest of the place feels poor and slightly oppressive.  There are two hotels and we probably stayed at the wrong one - would try the Hotel los Molinos which is much better positioned than the Hotel Cuidad de Jodar.

Would give the walk to Quesada a miss unless you're desperate to do the whole of the GR7/E4.  A lot of road walking through boring olive tree country.  Gets better from Hornos de Peal to Quesada and Quesada is a lovely village with good accommodation options.  We stayed at the excellent Hotel Sierra de Quesada.

Limestone cliffs in the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y las Villas Natural Park

After Quesada you enter the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y las Villas Natural Park, a magical place full of wild life but with a total absence of people when I went there in March.  This was one of the best parts of the whole E4 as far as I was concerned and as well as deer,  huge numbers of birds of prey and vultures, I got to see my first wild boar and either a wild cat or a lynx.  Definitely want to go back there.

You cross into the Park somewhere between Quesada and Cazorla after you have climbed up along a forest trail.  The scenery changes quickly with huge limestone cliffs looking into the park and huge views across the plain looking out.  Along the way you pass ancient churches and castles before getting to Cazorla which itself is an absolute gem of a town.  We stayed at the Hotel Guadalquivir which was a success.

Sticking with the route there is no accommodation on the route into the park so I walked to and from Vadillo de Castril and the hotel gave me a lift back there the following day.  I'm sure there are better options if your not a GR7/E4 purist.  The paths through the park were excellent, a combination of paved mule trails and more recent forest trails.

It was on the second day into the park that the wild life started to reveal itself in numbers.  Usually walking high up, contouring around valleys, you're often looking down at the hovering Griffon vultures and birds of prey.  It was on the second day I saw my family of wild boar.

I stayed in an apartment in Cotos Rios, a small village on the edge of the park, although I'm sure the Hotel la Hortizuela is close by but on the road on the other side of the river from the trail.

Sheep country around Pontones

Although you're out of the park the quality of walking is more than sustained next day on the trip to Pontones.  It was pretty wild when I did it with snow falling going over the pass.  It was at this point I saw what was either a Lynx or a Wild Cat.  Pontones itself is very much a mountain town, very remote and in an area where making a living looks especially hard.  The Hotel Restaurant Ruta del Segura was a authentic, old fashioned good fun place to stay.

Last decent day's walking on the northern variant of the GR7, a walk across dry open limestone countryside followed by a long descent down a valley to Santiago de la Espada.  Stayed at another mountain hotel, the Hotel San Francisco.

Although I walked to Puebla de Don Fadrique there was little pleasure in it.  Mostly along a sometimes busy road and a long way - would definitely recommend catching the bus.  The Hotel Puerta de Andalucia is a good place to spend a last day in Andalucia (or a first day if you're walking the other way).

If you want to know what the walk felt like on a daily basis then have a look at the walk diary.

Villanueva de Rosario to Villanueva de Tapia
Villanueva de Tapia to Villanueva de Algaidas 
Villanueva de Algaidas to Rute
Rute to Priego de Cordoba 
Priego de Cordoba to Alcala la Real 
Alcala la Real to Frailes
Frailes to Carchelejo 
Carchelejo to Cambils
Cambil to Torres 
Torres to Jodar 
Jodar to Quesada 
Quesada to Cazorla 
Cazorla to Vadillo de Castril 
Vadillo de Castril to Cotos-Rios 
Cotos-Rios to Pontones 
Pontones to Santiago de la Espada
Santiago de la Espada to Puebla de Don Fadrique  

Posada de los Arrieros to Granada

We did feel that it was a bit of a cheat getting the taxi from Mairena to Posada de los Arrieros and it also meant that we missed out of what is supposed to be a lovely gorge walk just north of Bayarcal.  On the other hand the weather was definitely on the turn and getting to La Calahorra early meant we could spend the night in Granada and enjoy a stress free trip to Malaga and back to London.  The hotel at Pasada de los Arrieros was also excellent and the generator breaking down half way through dinner added to the remote in the mountains feeling.

Hotel at Posada de los Arrieros

It was cold in the morning, over 1600 metres high and a clear sky was enough to produce a frost on the ground, the first one on this trip.  Still the climb up to the pass was a nice steady and easy climb and we soon warmed up.

Early morning sun below Puerto La Ragua

Just over the 2000 metre pass the weather really turned and short shower, with a bit of hail, turned out to be a harbinger of worse things to come.  Got some final views down the mountain to Ferreira and, on the other side of a wide flat valley bottom, to Charches, which is at the foot of the Sierra de Baza, before the clouds finally dropped.   To be honest the walk down the mountain wasn't that pleasant.  Firstly we following a fire break down along a ridge and then an old, overgrown and badly eroded path along the side of a stream.  About two kilometres from Ferriera heavy rain started to fall and we dived into the first bar we saw once we got into the town.

The weekly bull fighting update was on the television, a programme we had endured a week ago in Arenas del Rey, but the food here much better.  Between us we had six lots of tapas (hot roast pork on toasted bread), six glasses of local wine and three expressos all for 12 euros 50.  Excellent value.

The rain had stopped by the time we left for bar and fortified with food and drink, and celebrating the end of the walk we were rewarded with great views of both La Calahorra and its amazing hill top castle and the Sierra Nevada.  The rain below had fallen as snow above and when the sun broke through the clouds you could clearly see the white tops of the mountains, the first snow of the year.

Fresh Snow on the Sierra Nevada

La Calahorra

Got to Granada by 8 on the excellent Alsa bus. Have been there before but just to see, briefly the Alhambra and the Cathedral.  This time we got to wander around the city centre streets in the evening and eat one final Spanish meal, it really is a lovely place and an excellent way to round of the trip.

Berchules to Posada de Los Arrieros

Left our hotel at dawn to avoid the rush with a party of Germans at breakfast and walked through a silent Berchules.  Good news,  a tiny bar was open, full of local men having their constitutional brandy, but we made do were with coffee and cake.

Climbing over the dam

We set off down the hillside into a gorge, passing a gaggle of barking dogs. Got to the bottom to find no trail and no way marks. Followed Juan up the valley bottom we had to climb over a dam, on the other side of which we found a surprised family of mountain goats who shot up the hillside. Eventually the found the right path, an ancient paved path which climbed back up the side of the valley opposite to Berchules.

Up the valley from Berchules

Looking back to the other side we saw the path we should have taken, just behind the gaggle of barking dogs, and renewed barks signalled the arrival of the party of Germans at the same point. They went down the hill making the same mistake as us, although one late German went in the right direction. Surprisingly poor group discipline soon had the party in three parts, one person going in the right direction, one halfway down the hill and eight marching off in the wrong direction. Eventually the eight returned, joined the one left in the middle but they missed the path again and returned to the village. We spent the rest of the day wondering if they would ever see their colleague who actually found the right path again.

It then started to rain and for the first time we had to get our waterproofs out. Pressing on to Mecina Bombaron we stopped for another coffee and had Jamon on Toast which Juan proclaimed the best he had had in southern Spain.

Walking down the valley through the tiny hamlet of Golco over the next ridge to Montenegro we stopped at the site of the last stand by a group of Moors attempting to resist the conquest by the Roman Catholics. A lovely new house stood near the spot, a quirky Spanish cross between Gaudi and Salvador Dali.

House at Golco

On into the lovely town of Yegen and past the home of the famous British writer and lover of all things Andalucian, Gerald Brenan.

5 kilometres later in the village of Valor, Juan insists that we stop in a bar to try the local delicacy of partridge pate. Unfortunately the bar he wanted to visit was shut but we found another one enlivened by the presence of some 50 huntsmen just down from the mountain (apparently having shot 5 wild boar). Three glasses each of rosada, tapas, a racione of grandmother's croquets, an Andalucian sardine and fish dumpling stew followed by cheese, honey and walnuts, all wrapped up with a local liqueur to completely refuel us. The bar was a brilliant place to be on a wet autumn afternoon.

Final stretch was a 6 kilometre walk to Mairena via Nechite. The light was fading and although we had not had any sun all day, for the first time on this trip to Spain, this sort of weather has made a nice change.

We decided to get a taxi from Mairena to Posada de Los Arriernos as this means we can get to La Calahorra in time to get to Granada tomorrow night. It's also a really nice hotel, a beautifully restored stone and wood construction with warm comfy rooms and good food.

Trevelez to Berchules

Seven days of walking and seven days of perfect weather - after the dodgy weather I had walking the E4 this summer I can hardly believe my luck. Another great day's walking although slightly longer than anticipated and, shock horror, with Juan in charge it's still possible to go the wrong way.

After the threatening clouds of yesterday afternoon the morning sun came up again exactly to order and we were soon marching through Trevelez and well ready for the climb up the side of the valley to the south and east of the town. In the shade of the mountain it was a lovely walk, up the through abandoned terraces and ancient farmsteads. Interesting to see how, high on the hill, the old farmstead was surrounded by sweet chestnuts which were such an important source of food for man and pig alike.

Travelez

John & Juan

The views back to Trevelez were just brilliant but the promised view of Mulhacen, the highest mountain in Spain, was a long time coming and it wasn't until we got to the highest point on the path, about 1750 metres, that we finally got to see it.

The gentle descent on the other side towards Juviles was across a huge expanse of open moorland. Wonderful views even if the humidity in the air made things just a little hazy.

Above Juviles

After the little town of Juviles we dropped into a craggy gorge on the way to Timar. Half way along, a particular crag projects out into the gorge dropping vertically several hundred feet. In the interests of dramatic photography I tried to persuade Christine and Juan to stand on the edge but they claimed it was too windy. The photo below shows the two of them as tiny people on top of a rock.

In the gorge between Juviles and Timar

Stopped at Timar hoping to buy some fruit-juice, a new midday habit, but no shops. It was getting quite hot, Christine has a blister, and our early morning pace had burned out. Started to discuss short-cuts to Berchules but in the end decided to stick with the original schudule. The usual mid-day blues were then compounded when we missed the trail and had to retrace our steps up a horrible concrete road.

Actually the E4 route between Timar and Lobras is just mad. Lots of money has been spent restoring an ancient waterway which contours between the two settlements and has a good footpath running along it's side. Ignoring this obvious route the E4 plunges down steeply into the gorge and then climbs it's way out again on the other side.

By the time we got to Lobras, yet another pretty white village, we were on a roll again and made great progress through a complete change of scenery on the route to Cadiar. We entered a fertile valley with a stream cutting through an alluvial flood plain, and the path took us through little fields of beans and tomatoes. Met a man on mule, or an ass, not sure which is which, on the way to his fields.

Approaching Cadiar

Stopped at a bar in Cadiar and fortified ourselves before the usual sting in the tail end of day walk, this time a savage climb out of the valley up to Berchules. Great views across the valley looking backwards with the late afternoon sun and even better views in the bar as Christine and I consumed two beers each, Juan only had one but he's Spanish and we are from northern beer drinking Europe!

Evening sun looking back to Cadiar

Great day's walking.

Bubion to Trevelez

Mountain towns seem to have a common feel wherever they are. It's the sense of being away from things at the end of the road, and not on the way to anywhere else. This late in the season the little towns are quite empty, and cold at the end of the day - you can feel the seasons changing.

I wanted to come to Bubion and stay at the Hostal las Terrazas because Christine and I stayed there about 15 years ago. It wasn't exactly how we remembered it but even nicer and had great views.

The weather is still excellent but starting feel unsettled, so we had clear blue sky the first half of the day but cloud in the afternoon - it is threatening to rain and indeed the forecast is not so good for the day after tomorrow.

Perhaps the best view of the day was the early morning view, following the climb up over the pass to the east of Bubion, looking up the Poqueria valley to the top of Velata (3394m).

Bubion

After this first climb the path went down and through, in rapid succession, a series of traditional immaculately kept white villages - Capilerilla, Pitres, Atalbeitar, Portugas and Busquistar.

With navigation now in Juan's super- capable hands, Christine and I were not paying that much attention to the big unresolved navigational issue, could we get through to Trevelez without a long walk along the road? Juan had heard that a land slip had destroyed the original path but was not sure whether an alternative had been constructed. Of course asking locals whether a long walk through the countryside was intact or not does not always produce a sensible answer, and people who live and work in the countryside seem to think that people who walk for pleasure are mad. After asking the question to a dozen or so people, two answers which seemed for once to accord with each other gave us confidence and we pressed on.



At Portugas we stopped for lunch (fruit juice and salami) sitting around an 'outdoor fitness centre' which every village around here seems to have (sponsored by a local bank). Then we walked down the hill to the Agua Agria de Portugas, a famous mineral water spa. Coach loads of tourists were stopping to sample the orange tinted water which is supposed to be healthy, it tasted disgusting, like drinking rusty nails. When it comes to health giving qualities I'm a rusty nail water drinking sceptic.

Agua Agria

After the white villages we set off on the final 10 kilometre stretch up the valley to Travelez. The clouds were beginning to gather but the views were wonderful. These mountains are not Alpine despite rising to well over 3,000 metres. If anything they resemble the Pennine moors but on an absolutely massive scale.

Up the valley to Trevelez

Eventually we found out what the landslip had done to the route - a new 300 metre drop into a gorge to by pass it, and the inevitable 300 metre climb out the other side. At the bottom of the gorge there was an interesting little footbridge which everyone crossed safely, despite the attention of the cameras.

Under the Landslip

Arrived at Trevelez just after 5. Lovely old town and the hotel we are staying in, the Hotel la Fragua, is excellent, nice room with views down the valley. Trevelez has a claim to be the highest town in Spain and is famous for its 'jamon' which, no doubt, we will be sampling later on this evening.