Back on the GR1 Sendero Histórico - to Salamon

Over the last 3 years I've walked nearly 4000 kilometres in Spain.  My Spanish hasn't improved but I am starting to find my way around. The more familiar I get with the country the more I like it.

I'm a particular fan of the long distance route, the GR1. It goes all the way from the Asturias, in the north west of Spain, to the Mediterranean a journey of nearly a 1000 kilometres. I walked most of it in March and April of this year and despite the unusually poor weather I thought it was brilliant.  It's a well known walk in Spain but without an English language guide doesn't have an international reputation so I've been able to persuade a publisher that if I write one they'll produce it.

So of instead of walking the Ecrins circular, the trip I had planned to do in September, I'm back in Spain walking the GR1. I'm here for 2 weeks and I'm trying to do 2 things. Firstly I'm walking stretches which either I missed earlier in the year or which didn't go too well. Secondly I want to look at the options for getting to and from the trail.  On this trip I'm revisiting the western half of the route and all being well will back next April to do the rest.

The Indian Himalayan Grand Traverse - a Review

We haven't quite decided whether the Indian Himalayan Grand Traverse was our favourite ever trek but it's definitely up there with the very best.  It managed to combine novelty, adventure, great scenery and excellent company with good organisation

We've got Valerie Parkinson to thank for the idea of going on the trip.  Valerie is the Asia Base Manager for Exodus whom we met for the first time on the Annapurna Circuit last year. Valerie is a trekking legend.  She was the first British woman to summit Manaslu, has been working for almost 30 years in Nepal and Kashmir, and leads for Exodus on the development of new treks in the area.  After listening to the amazing account of her attempt on Everest we asked our usual question "what's your favourite trek" and without hesitation she came back with the "Indian Himalayan Grand Traverse".

So where is the trip and what makes it's so good?

The Indian Himalayan Grand Traverse crosses Ladakh, one of three provinces in the Indian state of Kashmir and Jammu.  Geographically it's in an interesting place.  Kashmir and Jammu is the bit of India that inserts itself into central Asia and, from geological point of view, Ladakh is really part of the Tibetian High Plateau.  It's very high and very dry with long cold winters and short hot summers.  It's also interesting from a geopolitical point of view. With the Indian Army facing up to the Pakistan and Chinese armies over contested borders, it's one of most militarised parts of the world.

Indian Himalayan Grand Traverse - Day 18 - 21 Back to Delhi

Although it took three days by road and train to get back to Delhi it was a trip I thoroughly enjoyed.  I've only done one other road trip in India (from Delhi to Agra to see the Taj Mahal) and that was good as well.  There is always so much to see and best of all "things happen".  To be honest I'd love to do a road trip from one end of India to the other if I could fine someone to go with, Christine unfortunately refuses to sit in a car for that long.

After a couple of hours walk along a gorge and a final small climb, we met up with 2 minibuses and said goodbye to the ponymen.  Christine gave a speech and tried to express how grateful we all were for everything they had done for us.  They were as charming as ever, all smiles and handshakes.  After saying goodbye to us they have just over a week to get themselves and their animals back over all the passes to where we started trekking, where they will support the next trekking group.

Donkey disguised as haystack

Indian Himalayan Grand Traverse - Day 16 - Over the Parang La

The weather did clear up in the night so after a 4-45 wake up call we were on our way by 6 up to the Parang La  (5,586 metres).  It was daylight but the sun was behind the mountains and it was very cold.  Despite only wearing trainers Christine was complaining about her cold hands rather than her feet.

Sagar was leading the group and for once no one shot on ahead of him.  Dilip was taking no chances and Shyam, Pirtha, Pandbhabur and Namgyal and had joined to help us on the ice during the ascent up the glacier.  Following us were the two Belarusians but once we got to the glacier they took a more direct and easier looking route up its side.  Dilip assured us we were on the best route and that theirs was dangerous as the glacier edge was an overhang that could break at any moment.

Stepping onto the Glacier and the ice

Indian Himalayan Grand Traverse - Day 15 - Parang La base camp

Second full day in the Parang Chu and another wonderful one.  Essentially the same flat bottomed valley, huge cliffs on either side, occasional snow topped summits and, until late afternoon at least, perfect weather.  It's amazing how quickly you can get used to something.

Climbing the moraine

As usual the best walking is early in the morning when the light is at its best.  Today we had a small climb up onto some light gravelly moraine which almost crossed the valley.  Dwarf like bushes had spread across the surface all perfectly spaced from each.  Great views from the top back down the valley and last night's campsite.

Indian Himalayan Grand Traverse - Day 14 - Parang Chu (2)

We are now in the Parang Chu valley.  It's a huge feature, flat bottomed with towering latte coloured cliffs on either side and occasional views of even higher snow topped mountains above the cliffs. The route takes us along the bottom of the valley with side climbs over moraine when the river prevents an easier route.

It's a dramatic valley.  It reminds me very much of the western side of the Annapurna Circuit - the two or three days around Larjung (which the Nepalese claim as the deepest gorge in the world), but if anything, with the light brown cliffs and incredible erosion features and huge scree on each side, this is even more beautiful.  We also talked with Pete about his trip along the Mustang Gorge which he doesn't think is as good as this.

Indian Himalayan Grand Traverse - Day 13 - Parang Chu (1)

After yesterday's non-eventful day, today was action packed.

Last night the wind Dilip had warned us about kicked in with a vengeance. It must have something to do with differences in temperature between the air over the lake and the glacier in the mountains (I think you get a similar effect on some Greek islands) but it was like a wind-switch had been turned on by a furious god in the sky. An almost instant gale started to blow down the mountain. Everything seemed to be blowing away and it was all hands to the pumps as the team, in particular Pemtuck the rescue man, rushed around frantically to secure the tents.  The toilet tents blew over several times and were eventually abandoned and the mess tent also had to be taken down.  In the morning everyone had their story.  Most people had struggled to sleep particularly Ralph whose tent had blown down completely.

Of course the next morning the weather was on best behavior, coy and innocent, pretending that nothing had happened.  There was little time however for recriminations - we had to start early as there was a river that needed to be crossed before the glacier melt water built up and made it too dangerous.