Some GR1 Q & As

Thanks Stephen for your questions - I hope you don't mind me sharing them alone with the answers.

1 Cows. You mention that walkers on the GR1 will see herds of cows. My wife and daughter have been known to refuse to walk through a field of cows in this country. (My wife and I got charged by a herd once in Cornwall, and the three of us had a fairly alarming experience on the Black Isle a few years ago.) It may be that faced with the necessity of reaching somewhere to spend the night, and no obvious way of giving the field a detour, they will be prepared to take a few more risks. I just wondered, did you ever find yourself being followed around by a field-full of over-excited cows? Or did they tend to be the uncurious/docile type?

Cows - I've never had a problem.  The big difference between Spain and the UK, certainly in the mountains, is that they don't have fields.  This might sound bizarre but it's non the less true.  Cows and more often sheep are left to graze in unenclosed open spaces, often with a shepherd in tow who is helped by the huge Spanish sheep dogs.  Unlike the UK, with its field system,  it's unusual to find yourself in a confined space with cows.

A GR1 Radio Interview

What fun - an interview on radio (Talk Radio Europe) to discuss Spain's Sendero Historico: The GR1: Northern Spain - Picos to the Mediterranean.  I can't pretend that it's an absolutely polished performance or that I have a potential career in improvisation, but it is my voice on the 'airways' so if you want to listen just click on the link.

What's the accommodation like on the GR1

The guide to the GR1 has been produced on the assumption that walkers will use the local accommodation, walk from place to place and, for their comfort, carry the minimum amount of gear. It is possible to walk most of the GR1 and start and finish each day in accommodation directly on the route although just occasionally a diversion is needed, even, a couple of times a taxi journey.

For me, one of the joys of this style of walking is the element of surprise involved in where you end up staying.

Broadly speaking there are two types of accommodation - provided in small hotels or by individuals.

Finding your way along the GR1

As it would be for any long-distance route in Spain finding your way along the GR1 can be a challenge.

Spanish walking routes are 'defined' by the regional walking associations operating to standards set at a national level. It's a voluntary activity although regional government does occasionally get involved as part of the promotion of tourism.  Waymarking and the quality of the route does however vary from region to region (the route passes through 5 regions).

What 'Histórico' about the GR1?

Although the GR1 uses original and often ancient footpaths the route itself is not ancient in origin. Unlike the Way of St James it didn't have a medieval purpose, but has been put together by Spanish walking associations to cross great countryside while visiting sites that are particularly interesting. It's a walk with a historic theme and provides an insight into two linked processes: first the beginnings of the 'reconconquest' that finally resulted in the Moors being driven out of Spain; and second, Spanish unification, which eventually ended the struggle between competing elements on the Christian side. Together these developments, which started in northern Spain in the 8th century and took over 700 years to complete, finished with Spain as the 16th century world superpower.

What's walking the GR1 Sendero Histórico like?

Walking in Spain is a special experience.  Spain was the last country in Western Europe to experience rural depopulation, and the remnants of an ancient infrastructure where everyone walked are still there.  The GR1 follows paths and trails that, until the 1960s, were the main way people and their animals moved from village to village.  Although, sadly, the days when every village had a bar, cantina or hostal have gone, there are still just enough to make walking from village to village the best way to travel.

What's the countryside like on the GR1 Sendero Histórico?

Apart four days spent crossing the flat plain in the Navarre and two days approaching the Mediterranean coast the GR1 is a walk through the mountains.  In the west it's a journey through the Cantabrian mountains and in the east the foothills of the Pyrenees.

An important feature of mountain walking in Spain, unlike much of Western Europe, is that you don't have to get above the tree to enjoy the wonderful views.  Mountains at similar altitudes in France, Italy, Switzerland and Austria are more likely to be covered in trees, often commercial pine than in Spain.  In these countries you can sometimes walk for days without getting 'a long view'.  As in other countries Spain lost its trees (and topsoil) to agriculture and woodburning centuries ago but because rural depopulation happened so much later trees have not yet returned to cover the mountains.