Wednesday August 17th Karl Ludwig Haus to Semmering

Final guest blog by Christine

Today, my last taste of the E4 and my last day with John till he gets back, was a day of four parts. Two were good; two were pretty bad.

The good parts were determined by the perfect weather - a cloudless sky and fresh breeze - and by a variety of quality walking ranging from high alpine mountain tops to well-graded woodland trails.

The bad parts were entirely due to the lack of proper geographic information (and dare I say it, prior research) and the most fundamental requirement, a map. Perhaps I should also mention that we had no food with us other than a few hariboo jelly beans and a handful of raisins.

We were woken early by the few inhabitants of Karl Ludwig Haus crashing about, and were outside in the sunshine at 7.50am. The billowing cloud from the night before had gone and the sky was completely clear, giving us exhilarating views in all directions. There was quick route down to Preiner Gschaid but John decided that would be cheating so we did it the long way, going first up over Predigtshul and then round and steeply down the usual zig zag rocky root ridden path. It was a great start to the day though and we got down to the big car park feeling good.

Karl Ludwig Haus

Dropping down to Wax Riegel Haus

Then it got bad. First no cafe or place to buy food. Second no signs. We wandered about up and down the road but there were absolutely no 801 signs anywhere. We were getting desperate. We knew the trail went due south from the car park so I got the compass out and we started up an unmarked track through the trees going vaguely in the right direction. Still no signs. Lots of bad temper and stress. After numerous twists and turns we finally saw a rusty 801 sign nailed to a tree about 90 minutes after leaving the car park. Spirits lifted and John shot off so fast I couldn't keep up.

Confusing signs

Treated ourselves to few raisins on the next summit and then things started to improve. We were on a perfect path going very gradually down but hugging the contours so it was dead easy. Even better, it was paved with pine needles so wonderfully kind to the feet, like a top quality carpet with underlay. We strode out and must have clocked at least 5 km an hour. This went on for quite a while and we really enjoyed it.

At last an open bit

The path eventually normalised into rocks and roots. We were getting tired and hungry, but the path then decided to go up quite unnecessarily I thought, to a small summit called Pinkenkogel Haus. The sun became blastingly hot. We had been promised a hutte and possible food at this point but predictably the hutte was closed, so we had slaved up the hill for nothing.

We then had to find Semmering. John had promised a reasonable sized town with hotels and other semblances of civilisation. He said it was at 900 metres so we shouldn't have to drop too far, I should be able to get my train to Vienna tomorrow, and he should be able to proceed on his E4 walk with minimal disruption. The signs however were highly confusing and we ended up dropping down to a series of S bends on a long winding road lined with 19th century villas that had seen better days. No hotels, no gasthofs. I was getting decidedly bad tempered, being tired and hungry and thirsty - the water run out some time back. After another hour of messing about on wild goose chases we finally found a pension that both had a room and served food. Thank goodness. We must have done 35 km today at least, and over 1500m descent all in all.

So mixed feelings about today. No doubt after a good night's sleep and breakfast all will be fine.
Doing the E4 is tough though. I am still in one piece after 16 days walking and we are still talking to each other. But I wouldn't have the mental or physical strength to do what John does. Don't know how he does it.

Tuesday 16 August: Neuberg to Karl Ludwig Haus

What a day! We were planning Christine's early return to London last night based on our understanding of my itinerary and the bad weather forecast. Instead we decided over breakfast - with hugely helpful advice from our fabulous hostess at Zum Hollander at Jausenstation in Neuberg - to rearrange the schedule so we could both enjoy 2 more good days walking (the weather forecast has apparently improved and it's now going to be fine all week).

To be honest I was a bit nervous about the next two days walking on my own. I'm still high in the Alps and walking without a map. After yesterday's experience where two pairs of eyes were essential for keeping on route I was worried about getting lost. It would also have felt like a bit of a failure for Christine to go home early. What she didn't want to do was go back to Krampen and as it happened the Gasthof we were staying at was next to the route 445 which would take us directly back to the E4 and save a few hours walking.

So with a plan, clean after our first shower for 4 days and well breakfasted, we set off at 9.15am up the 800 metres to Schneealpen Haus where we planned to have an early lunch. It was a beautiful walk up through mixed forest on a good path, nice steady climb with great views back to Neuberg and Krampen.

Once we'd done the steep pull up to the top, the landscape opened out and we walked over alpine grazing land to reach Schneealpen Haus at 11.45am. It looked a very good hutte, amazing location and views, and good food and loos. We decided to have a blow out and ordered beef with noodles and vegetables, enjoying our first fresh vegetables (fried courgettes) for over 2 weeks. Delicious.

Schneealpen Haus

At this point we weren't sure how much farther we should go. It looked like the clouds were building up so we decided to walk to the next hutte, have strudel and then decide. We got to Lurgbauer Hutte in an hour (incidentally we were beating the signs in terms of walking time all day : very satisfying). After further gastronomic (right word?) reinforcement we felt suitably energised to go for it and aim for the Karl Ludwig Haus, some 30k and 1800 m of ascent from where we started at breakfast. It was either this or stay put. Our plan to stay at the Zimmerman Hutte half way along was thwarted because it was closed.

The clouds blew over and the weather turned out to be perfect for tough walking. Not too hot and a nice fresh breeze. We set off on what the signs said was a 5 hour walk, unhelpfully graded as black. The first hour or so was steep downhill on limestone; had to concentrate and save the knees. The route then flattened out and we went over a col and the point of no return. The mountain opposite was vertical and further signs warned that the route was not for the faint hearted.

We started up. At first it was easy, a steady climb up a nice forest path and then a bit steeper following the course of a stream. Then the fun started. Round a corner was a steep scree slope with little visible sign of any path. We were nervous but reasoned that we had done worse before. Up and across we went. More steep up and then we came to the fixed ropes, not just a few fixed ropes but all the way up the mountain.

Crossing scree on the way up to Heukuppe

I was too busy taking pictures to look down but there were sheer drops everywhere. There was so much fixed rope that our confidence started to grow and we started to enjoy it and made rapid progress up the cliff. Every now and then the semblance of a path returned for a few yards, only to be followed by more climbing or by another scree traverse. In total I think we climbed around 250 metres with the aid of ropes and ladders and have never done such a sustained steep climb like this before.

Ropes on the Heukuppe 

Over the edge and then an easy walk then to the top of Heukuppe and views back to where we have walked over the last few days: the dreaded Lugauer; Hochschwab where we wandered lost in the mist; and Veitsch where we had a memorable night in the Graf Meran Haus.

Then down to the Karl Ludwig Hutte which turns out to be utterly modern and refurbished with proper showers, loos that flush and our own room. Slightly freaky local weather conditions have produced a dramatic effect with cloud butting the high cliff where the hutte sits, with clear sky beyond. Very happy to sit in the bar with large beers and study the microclimate.

On the way to Predigstuhl

So an amazing day. The last big climb of the walk, the most exciting climb of the walk and definitely one the best days. Best of all I was able to share it with Christine.

Monday 15th Graf Meran Haus to Neuburg

Given the terrible weather forecast, was keen get of the high mountains as quickly as possible so it was an early breakfast and out if the hutte by 7.20. Slightly strange breakfast, I think some of our walkers were pilgrims and keen to get out and up to the cross on the Hohe Vietsch while others, including the bearded mascot, were on their second beer before we left.

Graf Meran Haus drinker

Wonderful early morning walking, high open moorland type scenery, huge views.

Early views leaving Graf Meran Haus

Started to look dodgy quite quickly and perhaps I was looking for bad weather which in the end didn't actually arrive. Was accused of going too fast by Christine.

Dropping down a bit, the open countryside turned into pine forest with the track taking us along one ridge and then another. Despite walking through pine trees it was a pleasant walk, soft underfoot with a series of gentle climbs and descents. Although the anticipated rain didn't materialise I still wanted to press on and the main problem was keeping Christine moving through the periodic patches of wild raspberries. I thought they were too small to bother with but she just wanted to gorge herself.

Lots of tree walking

After the Hochschwab this part of the E4 isn't so well walked and the trail is not well marked. I was now depending on footpath signs for navigation as had run out of map, and at times finding them was like hunting for treasure. We were determined not to press on without a sign but, particularly where there had been recent forestry work, they seemed carefully hidden.

Eventually and after some particularly poor signage we were heading into Krampen which is where I expected to find a gasthof and, after three night's without a decent wash, a shower. Shock horror no gasthof. We didn't have the energy or cleanliness to press onto the next hutte which was another two hours away (although it was only 2.30 at this point). We were also struggling to figure out how Christine was going to get out of the mountains and catch her flight on Thursday if she stuck with me for another three nights of huttes. We decided we had to find a town and decided to end down the valley to Neuburg.

Even this didn't turn out to be as simple as we had hoped. My out of date guide said Neuburg had a railway station but when, after the best part of hour we got there, we found it was long closed as was the gasthof in the centre of the village.

We followed a sign to accommodation high above the village but it to seemed closed. Patience was running out. Wandered round the back and found the owner. She said yes they were closed but that they could find us a room, the restaurant was shut but she could find us some eggs and bread if we didn't mind managing for ourselves. It has all worked out very well, great room.

By 4 o'clock the skies opened and the rain came pouring down. Slightly later than forecast I still feel vindicated that we pressed on and got out of the high mountains before the weather changed. Hope it improves a bit before tomorrow. I will be on my own again for the last bit of the Alps before heading down again for the final three week run to Budapest.

Sunday 14th August Voisthaler Hutte to Graf Meran Haus

Would have been perfect if we had had today's weather yesterday. The early morning sun was wonderful but instead of going up we were heading down into the valley, with cloud sitting at the bottom of it. Had a great walk however,covered more ground than we anticipated, and finished the day at an 1800 metre hutte with great views across the valley.

Shared our room with a couple of other people last night but we both slept well. Up early and out by 8.15 to start the long trek down the valley. The valley/gorge was a continuation of the amazing feature we had enjoyed at the end of yesterday but looked even better in the morning sun. We met a steady stream of people coming the other way, more and more of them, some from Vienna and others more local but all wanting to enjoy the Hochschwab on a sunny bank holiday Sunday. When we got down we walked past a huge collection of parked cars, showing how popular this area is for weekend walkers.

Heading down to Seewiesen

Looking back up to Voisthaler Hutte

A strudel stop at Seewiesen, surrounded by a group of leather clad bikers amused by Christine's choice of head gear, and then a really steep climb up through pine trees up to Seeburg.

After Seeburg an easy walk along pretty valley towards Gotlacher Alm. Lots of families with small children enjoying the scenery and weather.

Leaving Turnauer Alm

We were now walking through a mix of alpine pasture and woodland, easy walking and to be honest given the scarcity of fine weather we really would have liked to be higher and completely out of the trees.

At about 2.30 we stopped at Turnauer Alm for lunch. The plan had been to stop here for the night but it seemed too early and given the great weather the poor forcast for tomorrow we decided to press on. The target was Graf Meran Haus, near the top of Hohe Vietsch, a climb of around 500 metres.

The signs were really confusing giving different timings and this added a certain tension to the decision to press on. I said it should take about 2 hours but some of the signs were suggesting a lot longer. The last part of the walk was a savage very steep open climb. Happily the hutte was just past the ridge and we were drinking beer by 4.45.

Climbing up to Graf Meran Haus 

The Graf Meran Haus turned out to be a special place. High up, amazing views, sharing the sunset and the rising of a full moon with a group of easy going, fairly well oiled walkers, exactly what makes this sort of walking special. Music is a feature of the huttes in this part of Austria and a stream of hikers were ready to pick the hutte accordion and blast out a folk song.

Good fun evening as well. Centre of attention was a full bearded ancient Austrian male who seemed to be hutte mascot (although given his beer consumption, a very expensive mascot). Was very interested in the English and kept trying to persuade us to sing, but everyone else was doubled up with laughter so we suspected we were the subject of the joke. A particularly kind fellow walker did the interpretation but he had wonderful manners and I'm sure a certain amount was lost in translation.

Looking forward for shower, three huttes in a row and this one, although it had plenty of beer, had no water and no electricity. Nice room though, no sharing tonight.

Saturday 13th August Sonnschien Hutte to Volsthaler Hutte

So straight to the heart of it, a truly embarrassing navigational cock-up, embarrassing in particular because for once we were not able to keep the blunder a secret.

And the mist descends

Parties to the blunder are: atrocious weather conditions, rain, hail and visibility down to ten yards; an emergency prefabricated cabin (like a work mans' hut at the side of a UK road) at Fleischer-Biwak on the map below; the summit Hochschwab; and Schiestl-hutte, also on the map below.




After a reasonably fine start the weather got really bad. Firstly the mist came down so we couldn't see a thing, then it started to rain, and then with hail it got really cold. At about 11.30 we passed the Fleischer-Biwak (workmans hut ) and it was crammed with cold wet walkers huddled together for warmth. No room for 2 bedraggled Inglisches. In the mist we had no idea whether we had climbed the Hochschwab, which at 2277 metres was the second highest point on my version of the E4 trail, but as we were soon climbing steeply again it was apparent that we hadn't.

Christine was grimly marching on and went straight past a sign saying Hochschwab, I thought she had done this on purpose as why would you go high in this weather? The route she was following was for the Schiestl-Hutte, on the way to Vosthaler Hutte our final destination. 30 minutes later we see a sign saying 1 hour 30 for the Vosthaler Hutte. Encouraged we pressed on. Slightly surprised we hadn't seen Schiestl-Hutte and more surprised we were still going up rather than down, we carry on in our misty cocoon. Another 30 minutes latter we reach a summit with a cross, I rationalise this by thinking there must be a second Hochschwab type summit, although can't remember this from the map (much too wet to get it out), and start to head down the other side. We get to a junction which disappointingly doesn't give us the time to Vosthaler Hutte. Instead a sign says Schiestl-Hutte. Seeing our bemused look a man says we could go the other way to Vosthaler Hutte but it's a very steep descent and instead suggests we go to there via the Schiestl-Hutte route. After a few minutes along this route Christine objects, fed up and wanting to just get there, and says let's go down the steep route so we retrace out steps. After 100 metres or so down the steep route we see an emergency prefabricated cabin full of people sheltering from the rain...... two on the same mountain! A few yards later I see a sign to Sonnschien Hutte and at last smell a rat. We are back exactly where we started from about 90 minutes earlier.....and heading back to where we came from!

Force our way into the shelter and after a few conversations our 360 degree trip is confirmed. The mist begins to lift in every sense. All of a sudden we realise we have walked around, climbed, and come down again back to the starting point. Christine didn't think it was very funny.

So back we went retracing our steps ( and did some bits for the third time). by now we were very cold and tired so it was a blessing when about 20 minutes later the cloud lifted and we started to see our surroundings properly for the first time for hours. There ahead of us round a curve on the side of the mountain was the Scheistl Hutte standing proud overlooking a valley. Couldn't miss it.

We laboured on, feet and hands still numb, and started down a long steep trail. The initial uplift generated by knowing where we were evaporated as the reality of a tricky climb down started to bite. The air filled with groans, moans and curses which is how Christine usually copes with such adversity.

Almost as if to tease the sky cleared and the full drama of the landscape was revealed. The huge cliff up to Hochschwab now dominated the skyline and on top you could make out the cross we had walked around a couple of hours earlier.

To the east of Hochswab

Down to the Voisthaler Hutte

Once down we spent the last 30 minutes walking along a magnificent dry limestone valley down to the Voisthaler Hutte. Chatted to a charming Austrian couple who were in the Sonnschien Hutte with us last night. He had the maps and route on his IPhone, really good value. If we had had that we wouldn't have got lost. The product wasn't available when I left England in March. It's time I got home.

By the way, before it started to rain this morning, we saw mountain goats, the local name is Steinbock, they had a very strong goaty smell.

Steinbock

Friday August 12th Eisenerz to Sonnschien Hutte

Great walk today, bit harder than expected, felt like it was uphill all the way, but got to the hutte in good time and the evening, as I write, is getting increasingly surreal.

Left Eisenerz with no regrets. Last night was definitely the worse meal we have had in Austria, really bad. I know you shouldn't condemn a nation's food on the basis of one meal but we experienced all its worst features at once - lots of processed meat, dreadful overcooked vegetables, and salad drowned in 2 inches of water. Miserable food.

Struggled momentarily to find our way out of town but met a helpful guy who
directed us to the right path. Coincidentally he was also making for the Sonnschein Hutte but by another route (starting with a short bus ride, he told us). He was loaded up with a bag, a proper Austrian walker, put us on the right track, and we are exchanging views about the Austrian walking again as I write.

After a short climb heading north out of Eisenerz the route takes you past the Leopoldsteiner See then gently up a good track through a stunning valley with high limestone cliffs to the north and south. Gorgeous walk with a pretty stream following the path and great views up to the mountains on either side.

Long valley up Hintersee Graben

Huge Limestone Cliffs

Eventually the gentle walking finished and path head relentlessly upwards, still a good path but really steep and energy sapping. Not sure why but the climb seemed much tougher than suggested by the 700 metres ascent. The heat may have had something to do with it - by now it was red hot with the sun beating down.

Approaching the Sonnschien Hutte

We eventually reached a high alpine meadow and stopped for lunch, the usual ham roll finished off with chocolate. Then on, along a high alpine path up and down over limestone until we turned a corner and came across an 'alm', a wooden hut with a guy dishing out various forms of alcohol to a crowd of well satisfied local walkers, who had clearly been there for some time. The men, some with large beery bellies benefiting from long exposure to the sun, all seemed to want to give Christine a kiss, a long way to climb for such a reception.

The final stage of the walk was through more alpine meadow, and for once we didn't seem to be climbing, a lovely easy walk, and by 3.30 we had arrived at the Sonnschien Hutte.

Man with Harmonium

Despite being a Friday night, not too many people staying here. We have the dormitory (or 'lager') to ourselves although there are another 8 or 9 people scattered about in different rooms. Included in that number is a man who clearly comes here regularly and is an expert on the harmonium.  A very generous man he has copious supplies of a local resin spirit and of snuff which he insisted on sharing liberally with the inmates. We have all been sitting here for the last 3 hours quite happily chatting in broken English / German, drinking, humming along to traditional Austrian music and waiting for the very laid back hutte staff to dish up the requested potatoes and sausage. Maybe it will arrive after the next beer.

Thursday August 11th Radner an der Stube to Eisenerz

It's a happy coincidence that all the really tough walks for Christine have been followed by something less demanding and that's exactly what happened today. After yesterday's nerve shattering epic a nice 20 kilometre walk up a easy track over a ridge (about a 700 metre climb) and then down the other side, through a valley to Eisenerz was just what was needed.

Got all my clothes washed in the gasthof last night and either it was free or they forgot to charge me and walking up the hill this morning I was struck with remorse because I had forgotten to say thank you. It was a basic but fun place and very cheap. We had the top of the range "Gordon Bleu" main course - essentially a wiener schnitzel folded in half with ham and cheese in the middle - twowould probably give you an instant heart attack.

Lagauer above Radmer

The weather was perfect and walking up through the trees we had great views back to the village and the Lagauer mountain the descent from which caused us so much grief yesterday.

The weather bought out lots of walkers and we passed the time with three local men. The news about the riots in London had left them with the impression that the whole city had burnt down and that we might be refugees on the run. We tried to confirm that impression and Christine said that all she had left was in her backpack.

Once over the ridge and just around the corner we got full view of Hochkogel and Kaiserschild, two 2100 metres summits set off to perfection by the sun and the blue sky. They were positioned at the top of a quiet valley at the end of which which was a Gasthof serving cake and strudel, perfect for an early lunch.

In the valley heading down to Ramsau

Another 90 minutes or so took us to the outskirts of Eisenerz a town with a long history of iron ore extraction and whose skyline is dominated by a huge but now disused quarry. The town feels just a bit run down. We are staying in a huge Gasthof but have the feeling that we might be the only people here.

The quarry at Eisenerz

Weather forecast for the next two days at least is good and then it might deteriorate again. The schedule puts us up in the mountains again with three nights in huttes over a weekend. Suspect we will be desperate for some privacy and home comforts after that.