Day 11 Montpellier to Brighton - Rochefort

91 kms - the rough with the smooth

Today was our best day's cycling so far, lots of variation and stunning scenery. It was not however without its challenges and even today we managed to pick up a puncture. You have to take the rough with the smooth.

Last night, a Monday night, we had the worst food we've had in France, really bad. But tonight, for the same price we had the best.

With this sort of trip you never know what's going to happen next.

The weather was perfect when left our hotel in Royan this morning. I'd cleaned the bikes up yesterday, given the chains a desperately needed oil and after a day's rest we were pleased to get on the Vélodysée again.

Remains of the Atlantic Wall

Day 10 - Montpellier to Brighton - Royan

85 kms - through the dunes

For the second day running I've woken in the morning to the sound of waves breaking gently on a beach outside the bedroom window. Not bad, particularly as we arrived at the Atlantic just in time for a spell of fine weather. Today we are taking a break, at the mid-point in our journey back to Brighton, and having a day out of the saddle relaxing in Royan. Royan is a quiet seaside town, almost stylish, a sort of French Bournemouth in the fifties.

Royan

Day 9 Montpellier to Bordeaux - Lacanou Océan

75kms from Bordeaux to the sea.

Things didn't start too well this morning in Bordeaux. It was freezing cold and for some reason Christine took a total dislike to the cafe where I decided to stop for breakfast. For me the choice didn't matter, the petit dejeuner is always a grande ripoff and it doesn't make that much difference where the ripoff happens. As far a Christine was concerned however my choice revealed a fundamental character flaw which could only be remedied by a sustained silence.

The silence was sustained as we passed along the river, through old Bordeaux and out into the suburbs. The suburbs to the west of Bordeaux went on and on and, despite the beautiful surface and the company of hundreds of runners and other cyclists, our glum mood was sustained.

An ugly route leaving Bordeaux

Day 8 Montpellier to Brighton - Bordeaux

60 kms cruising into Bordeaux

We've been cycling for a week and with about 560 kms under our belts have completed over a third of the total distance. We reach the Atlantic coast tomorrow and the plan, providing the weather improves a bit, is to slow down and take a breather for a day or two before starting our journey up through France.

The cycling so far has lived up to expectations but we have not had good weather. France has been hit by a huge storm and measures are being taken to protect the world's greatest collections of art in Paris. Although the impact on our journey has not been as dramatic, two wet days have left me with a dreadful head cold and I'm feeling very sorry for myself (that's true, Ed).

Great stretch of new track on the way to Bordeaux

Day 7 Montpellier to Brighton - Sauveterre de Guyenne

118 kms, 3 punctures and Saint George

Some days things don't go to plan, and this was one of them.

Agen this morning was misty and cold. Without much enthusiasm we left our noisy hotel in the middle of the rush hour and were soon back on the canal side track. To be honest we're getting a bit fed up of the scenery which, ever since Toulouse, has been pretty monotonous.

Crossing the aquaduct leaving Agens

After 90 minutes or so at Buzet Sur Baïsse we had our first coffee. Christine bought some more prunes - she now has a kilo and a half. The sun broke through and for the first time in 3 days I took off my cycling waterproof.

Day 6 Montpellier to Brighton - Agens

45 kms - a half day but far enough

I don't suppose the manager at Hotel le Provence reads my blog but if does I hope he'll forgive me. We said we would be there this afternoon but unfortunately I got our Perigords mixed up with my Provences and we're staying at the hotel down to road. By the time I had worked out that we had made a mistake it was too late, I was already getting warmed up in the bath!

Great track

Day 5 Montpellier to Brighton - Moissac

92 kms on the Canal de Deux Mers in the rain.

Today's cycle ride had one characteristic that overwhelmed all others. It was very wet. It started to rain as soon as we left the chambre d'hote in Donneville and kept raining for the next 82kms. The rain varied from steady drizzle to torrential. We've had a difficult day!

Very wet day