Day 25 - The Big Iberian Tour - Plasencia

Thank goodness, after last night's​ misadventure, we have arrived exactly where we expected to be and the hotel, which was easily found, turned out to be the best yet.

Firstly a postscript to yesterday. It seems I ended up in the wrong Càceres because this was the recommended stop from the Ruta Vía de la Plata website. Why they suggested staying there is beyond comprehension. It's a village with little in the way of world beating tapas and although our hotel was 2 kms away, the noise from the town's dogs kept me awake to about 2 in the morning. I haven't heard such noisy dogs since my last trip to Nepal, a country whose Buddist traditions stops them doing anything sensible with such sleep inhibitors. They definitely don't have the same scruples about animals here but the dogs made the same noise We were also slightly disappointed that the wonderful welcome from our agriturismo hosts came at a whopping cost - every tiny bit of welcome was itemised and had to be paid for.

The advantage of an early (and expensive) breakfast was that we got away in good time. Cycling across this wild-west countryside at 8-30am in the morning gave yet another dimension to Spain's excellent sunshine because it cast such wonderful light.

Day 24 The Big Iberian Tour - Casar de Càceres

So we're staying in an agriturismo just west of the small village of Casar de Càceres. The only problem is that somehow, when booking the accommodation I managed to get my Casar de Càceres mixed up with my Càceres. Instead of staying in a large town full of castles and other antiquities and, according to Christine, the best gastronomy in all of Spain, we are 10kms further along the route in the middle of field.

As you might expect that last 10kms of what turned out to be a hot 87km ride were the longest, and if looks could kill I wouldn't have made it. Despite the fact that I had navigated our way through a very busy Càceres without a hitch, there was no getting away from it, I had cocked up and missing the historic old town was a disappointment.


After yesterday's discussion about gravel, today we adopted the Roman approach to cycling and took the most direct route between A and B (or C as it turned out to be). This meant ditching some long stretches of what looked like gravel and missing the visit to Alcuéscar. We did however visit the reservoir at Proserpina where a magnificent old stone dam built by Romans still holds the water in place. 'What did the Romans ever do for me', well quite a lot if you live in Mérida.

Day 23 The Big Iberian Tour - Mérida

After a horrible day yesterday, today was so much better. The sun was shining and for first time since leaving Seville we felt warm. It was not however a day without controversy and we continue to learn lessons about cycling in Spain.


We are following a route recommended by the designers of La Ruta en Bici, the cycling version of the Ruta Vía de la Plata, an ancient route running from the Seville to the north coast. There are two versions, the mountain bike route and the road route. We are following the road route. So far, apart from minor variations, the route has been following the N630 a significant road but fabulously​ empty due to construction of a motorway alongside. Today we have learnt that where the N630 runs embarrassingly close to the motorway the designers of the road route find an alternative which may not be road at all but gravel.

Now this is a trade off which I for one find reasonable but which Christine (the one) finds totally unacceptable. She reasons that gravel equates with mountain bike and she had been promised a road trip so how come there are stretches of gravel. She's happy with the proximity of a motorway providing the trade off is a good surface and virtually no traffic.

Today we left Zafra in the sun on a chilly morning and blasted our way 20kms along the empty N630 to Villafranco de los Barros where we had a coffee stop. Here we left the main road, which then stuck limpet like to the motorway, and headed north cross country. Until we started I had no idea what the surface was going to be like (I had my suspicions) but it turned out to be gravel. The complaints and grumbles then started. The scenery, probably the biggest vineyard in the world, vines as far the eye could see, didn't exactly help.



After 90 minutes and 25kms we emerged onto a smooth road at Torremajia, had a lemonade and sandwich and agreed that we would avoid gravel for the rest of the trip if we could, even if this meant motorway tracking. It's worth it if it stops the grumbling. We started as we meant to go on and modified the route into Mérida.

By the way the gravel route followed the Vía de la Plata St James Way route and we saw lots of 'pilgrims' slogging their way northwards on the most boring path imaginable. It must be a truelly hideous walking route.. It's one thing to be bowling along at 15kms an hour but another to be walking it.

Arriving in Mérida in the sunshine we had lunch, had a rest and then went to explore. What a place, the town has Spain's best Roman remains, and the sights include the longest Roman bridge, a theatre and an amphitheatre as well as a temple dedicated to the goddess Diana. Wandering around the town on a cool but sunny evening was a perfect way to end the day..

Day 22 The Big Iberian Trip - Zafra

Zafra is a very lovely place but getting to it proved tough. The weather was difficult and maybe we were still recovering from yesterday, as we were totally wiped out by the time we arrived.


The ride wasn't quite as long as yesterday's, 80 kilometres, but there was another big climb and today we topped out at 760m. The weather wasn't good. Initially it was very cold, then very windy and then finally, in the onslaught of the elements, it started to rain. It was forecast to rain and that put pressure on us to get a move on, and given the temperature I really didn't want to get wet so the normal pit-stops were kept to the bare minimum.


Today we left Andulucia and entered Extremadura, part of Spain I've never been to before and was looking forward to visiting. 15kms after crossing the 'border' there was an abrupt change to the scenery. The beautiful wooded pastures, with holm and cork oak forming a loose canopy of evergreen trees, suddenly ended and were replaced by wide-open rolling arable landscape. Huge, almost endless fields of barley and oats, broken occasionally by some isolated pig farm, it felt like we had been transported to the American mid-west.

Day 21 The Big Iberian Tour - El Real de la Jara

Edited by Christine

After 4 nights in Seville we are on the road again and have started what was always the main purpose of the trip, doing the Ruta Vía de la Plata: an ancient Roman route north, and part of the St James Way network.  We are taking the road-bike version to Leon before leaving la Ruta and going to Santander. La Ruta continues north to Gijón -- other versions go to Santiago de Compostela, but because we want to catch the ferry home we will turn east at Leon.

So far so good. Actually 10kms from the destination, Christine declared it was the best day's cycling she'd ever had although I think this had more to do with a premature sense that the journey was over. The last 10kms were a bit of an ordeal and finding the hotel was an absolute nightmare.

Day 20 The Big Iberian Trip - Seville

There's a quote, can't remember who said it, but it is to the effect that happiness is about accepting that life has adversities and then gaining enjoyment from overcoming them. Well today we had an adversity, not a big one in scheme of things, and despite the initial disappointment, it was fun overcoming it.

The day started well. We returned to yesterday's bar in the centre of Niebla for breakfast and more entertainment and were not disappointed on either front. It was packed but with a slightly different crowd. Three men behind the bar prepared coffee and toast and one took the orders and distributed the breakfast. He was amazing, leaning forward as he shot round the room and somehow remembering what the orders were and who had had what. Like last night, it was a noisy place with the Spanish typically grabbing any chance to socialise. We had two coffees each (not usually done in Spain where one is norm) and embarked on the bruschetta ritual. We gently sliced our toast, rubbed garlic onto its rough surface, drizzled olive oil onto the toast, covered it with tomato paste, lightly seasoned the whole thing and then devoured it, delicious! Breakfast came to 4 euros, good value!

Day 19 The Big Iberian Trip - Niebla

Niebla is about halfway between Lepe and Seville and was one of the few places where I could find somewhere to stay. It turned out to be an amazing place, really interesting and hopefully a sign of things to come as we journey to Spain's north coast.

It might sound a bit judgemental given that this is only our second day in Spain but already it feels a lot more interesting than Portugal. There seems to be more going on here, more to see in both the countryside and the towns.