Thursday 23rd June Culoz to Les Plans d'Hortonnes

Last night I hadn't been able to find anywhere to stay. Everywhere was either full up, only open at the weekend or only accepting groups. I had found a hotel at Les Plans d'Hortonnes but there was no reply when I rang them. Les Plans d'Hortonnes was a long way so if I could find a hotel would need an early start. Decided that I would have an early breakfast, ring after breakfast, and if I didn't get through I'd stay in Culoz. After trying all last night someone answered the phone at 7.45 this morning so the walk was on.

The downside was that the weather was poor. Today's walk was all about le Grand Colombier. Like Canigou and Mount Aigoul I was about to climb to the top of a really good place to see stuff on a cloudy day. The upside, as well not having to hang around in Culoz, was that a 1200 metre climb in a cool mist was better than having to climb when it's hot and humid.

In the rain climbing up the Grand Colombier

The only real challenge associated with the climb was a dog attack just before I got the top. The dog was a sort of double sized terrier and was really trying to bite me. It's owners were mending a fence in the distance and in a fairly half hearted way seemed to be calling the dog off. It was going round and round me in decreasing circles and if it wasn't for my sticks would have been getting very familiar. Not wanting to offend it's owners I was a just a bit reticent in my defence but in the end had to be a bit more positive and after connecting with the dog's nose it shot off. Thank goodness for sticks.

The views from the top of the le Grand Colombier would have been brilliant. Took a picture of myself which didn't quite work.

Misty at the top

Bad photo day

The rest of the walk was nice although not spectacular. The weather was getting better all the time but it was short views across pretty valleys and through woods and not the big panoramas I had been hoping for. Did get to walk through a field with dozens of very inquisitive horses some with bells around there necks in the fashion of Alpine cows and again I was pleased to have my sticks.

Meadows at the top

Transhumanance horses

A big walk, just over 10 hours. Got 30 kilometres closer to Budapest and climbed over 1800 metres.

Wednesday 22nd June St Maurice de Rotherens to Culoz

The Gite d'Etape man at St Maurice de Rotherens was a very nice, and having been shown his underground discotechque last night I was invited, just before I left this morning, into his underground chapel. He invited me to light a candle for my family which I did. There is a lot of family goings on at the moment so I for one am not going to tempt fate.

The picture below shows the Gite d'Etape, definitely a work in progress.

 St Maurice de Rotherens Gite D'Etape

A big walk today, 36 kilometres and 800 metres of climb, and very varied both in terms of landscape and weather. Left at 7.30 and arrived in Culoz just after 6.

Not sure when but at some point I have joined another spur of the St James Way. All the signs had then St James trade mark, the scallop shell, and lots of walkers were travelling with a shell attached to their bag. They were all going in the opposite direction to me which I guess makes sense.

Following the St James Way

For the first part of the walk I continued along the same ridge I finished yesterday's walk on. Even early on it was hot and humid and after about a hour it started to rain. By mid morning it had stopped but was now more humid than ever. Was walking through trees but eventually got some views of the River Rhone which was now right against the ridge.

The Rhone

After about 5 hours I arrived at Yenne which looked like a nice place with plenty of accommodation and, if you were on a leisurely schedule would be a good place to stop.

Instead I carried on for a while walking along the banks of the Rhone itself before heading across the flood plain to steep ridge which the route just had to climb over. It was then into vine alley, quite pretty actually, before arriving at another picture postcard town Chanoz.

Vineyards

Chanaz

Was soon walking along the banks of the Rhone again and the weather started to deteriorate. The reason my schedule is taking me to Culoz, rather than stopping at Yenne or Chanoz, is that the next stage involves climbing up the le Grand Columbier, which is a big climb with a shortage of accommodation. It seemed to attracting lots of thunder and lightening, not exactly inviting.

Grand Colombier

On the way into Culoz I completed my second Rhone crossing although, unlike last time it was now pouring with rain. Struggling to find anywhere to stay tomorrow night and I might just have to stop for a day in Culoz.

Crossing the Rhone in the rain

June 21st Echelles to St Maurice de Rotherens

Currently in a night in a hotel followed by a night in gite d'etape routine. Felt a bit ripped off last night given that I got a table d'hote but then paid a course by course price, a sort of menu price without getting to see the menu. No idea what's going on. Given how primitive the place is I'm staying in tonight it should be exceptionally cheap.

Was pleased to get on the road this morning as I was feeling self conscious. Despite washing my t-shirt last night it still smelt this morning and I couldn't help notice the landlady opening the window just after I sat down for breakfast. Today was very hot and sticky.

Given the position of the hotel to the north west of Echelles I decided not to tramp all the way back into town but instead headed north picking up the GR 9 just to the west of Attignat-Oncin. It was still early, wasn't too hot, and despite walking along roads the day started well.

Looking back to Chartreuse

After walking through a mix of trees and meadows, and just before arriving at the town of Bridoire, you go through the pretty Gorge du Grenand whose caves where used by the Resistance as an arms store.

The River Grenant

Stocked up with peaches, bananas and chocolate in Bridoire before climbing up through the heat to the pretty village on Onwin. Had left the chocolate on top on my bag so had to consume the whole lot before it got too disgusting.

La Bridoire

The walk then took you through trees along a ridge and the occasional gaps presented some brilliant views across the valley to the west. The yellow tinge in the trees are the flowers from the sweet chestnuts and hidden somewhere down there, and quite close, is the Rhone.

On the ridge above the Rhone Valley

Hang Glider

Although the weather got cloudy as the day went on, and is now starting to look really stormy, the high massifs of both the Chartreuse and the Vercors were clearly visible. Particularly nice to spot were the distinctive line of the Grand Veymont which I had seen on the walk up to Rencurel from Pont-en-Royans.

Chartreuse with the Vercors in the distance

Postscript

Interesting evening.

Having agreed that dinner would be served at 7.30, my host starts ringing a bell outside my room (I'm the only person here), at 6.30 shouting "aperitif". On offer is a huge glass of sweet white wine.

Dinner starts at 7. Huge quantities, firstly soup, secondly cold meats and salad, thirdly pork and pasta and then cheese. All with a nice bottle of Cote de Rhone.

My host then takes me around his Gite D'Etape. Originally a tiny farm house he has been extending it in all directions. One direction is down and he shows me the disco area he is building underneath, in the rock, and we share a very floral snnaps, accompanied by lights and music. He explains that the expansion involves a lot of drilling and that he has been hammering away with his pneumatic drill since 1968.

Monday 20th of June La Plagne to Les Echelles

So today I paid for yesterday. Knackered after such a huge walk, today dragged on and although it was only 20 kilometres I was tired and missing turns and contrived to make it another 4 kilometres longer. It was also very hot although I shouldn't complain as the weather forecast for the middle of the week is bad.

If I have got this right, today was my last day in the high Chartreuse crossing the highest part yesterday. By the end of today, and by the time I had reached Les Echelles, I was in gentler countryside, still very pretty but nothing like as dramatic as yesterday.

Today was actually a fairly easy walk, no big climbs or descents although with a bit too much road walking. Essentially a down hill walk to Epernay, a gentle climb out of the valley via le Desert (views of Mont Blanc), and then over the road pass into the next valley. I think the next village was St-Pierre d'Entremont, but can't make it out on the map (got lost there anyway), followed by a huge meander down through a forest (where I got lost again) before emerging via the edge of the splendid Gorge de l'Echaillon into the Les Eschelles valley.

The Gite D'Etape at La Plagne

Across the Valley to La Cochette

Having got to Les Echelles I then discover how far my accommodation was out of town explaining why the host had offered to pick me up when my friend Lesley had made the booking. The sign said three kilometres, I rang them and tried to arrange a pick up point but we couldn't understand each other, so I set of to walk it. Fortunately they then rang Lesley, who rang me with instructions where to wait for them in Les Echelles. Turned out that it was far more than three kilometres, more like six, so I was saved from a hideous end of the day tramp down a busy hot road. Another example of my good fortune (touch wood).

Sunday 19th June Le Sappey en Chartreuse to La Plagne

Definitely too far but also a contender for the best walk of the trip. 30 kilometres, 1900 metres of climb, stunning scenery, mud, slippery rocks as well as some really challenging climbing; good job tomorrow is a short walk as my feet and legs feel seriously battered.

Ideally I would have got away from the hotel that charged too much sooner but breakfast wasn't until 8.30 and I wasn't walking until just before 9. Drizzly start to the day but weather-wise it felt promising. Although it was misty the sun kept breaking through illuminating great views.

Chamechaude

The first big spectacular was the Dent de Crolles, first approaching it and then climbing up it's side. Approaching it involved a long slow muddy walk through trees (clothes quickly rendered filthy), followed by a stiff walk up an open hill and then a scramble through rocks and a bit of via ferrata.

Dent de Crolles

Heading down to the Col de Coq

In the scrambling queue

This was the big climb of the day, a 400 metre climb up to 1700 metres but the route then dropped a bit followed by another 300 metre climb up to 1900 metres. Just as I got to the col at the top the sky cleared enough to see Mont Blanc and the views all around were amazing. Both of these climbs were really busy but that just added to the fun.

Back to the Vercors

Ridge of the Roche de Bellefont

For the first time all day I now had some relatively easy walking but it was 3.00 and I was no where near half way. After following a long dry limestone valley gently down wards the scenery again became more dramatic and there was a final tough climb before I reached a wide grassy plateau full of cattle. It was now 6.30.

Roc de Bellefont

Upland meadow on the way to Col d'Alpette

The final challenge was an steep descent down to La Plagne. Had already fallen over twice and my legs were like jelly. An absolutely stunning evening I had soon dropped well below the cliffs which looked absolutely brilliant in the setting sun.

Evening sun on the rock face above the Col d'Alpette

Arrived at Gite d'Etape, at about 7.45, got a very quick shower and then had a great meal shared will a table full of French walkers - much more fun and better value than the hotel that charged too much. Great day.

Saturday 18th June Grenoble to Le Sappey en Chartreuse

Back on the trail again after three days when I barely put one foot in front of the other. Had a brilliant break and special thanks to Lesley and J-P. Had everything short of a blood transfusion although in a vain effort to make a noticeable impression on their wine cellar I suspect my blood has changed composition. I have also been holed up in their lovely house through a period of continued unsettled weather so walking would have been miserable.

Got back to Grenoble at about 2, it had been raining all morning, and I was starting to think that I might need to think about alternative ways of getting to Le Sappey en Chartreuse which is only about 14 kilometres along the GR 9 but involves about 1400 metres of climb. Was coming into Grenoble on a bus and to be honest if I had seen a bus which said "Le Sappey en Chartreuse" I would have jumped on it.

You get onto the GR9 via the Vauban fortress which sits above the city and there is a funicular up to it which would save about 200 metres of climb. By the time I had walked round to the lift the rain had eased of and to avoid the queue I walked up the road. After the fortress you climb up to about 800 metres, follow a ridge through trees, and then drop down the little village of Le Chateau Pillon. You then have a really steep 500 metre climb up, taking you to 1300 metres, to another hill top fortress. This was really hard work made worse by a runner steaming past me just before the summit.

Climbing up through the Foret dom de la Tronche

The views from the top were great. You could see the whole trail back down to Grenoble and the route I had taken on my last walking day including the La Sure ridge.

Looking back to Grenoble

The walk then went along the a ridge for about 5 kilometres looking over the Isere valley with great views east to snow topped mountains on the other side.

La Grande Pic de Belledone

Across the Isere Valley

Eventually the route turned west and away from the ridge heading down to Le Sappey en Chartreuse. Got to the Hotel, which looks budget busting, just before the heavens opened up. Considering how bad the weather was this morning I've been lucky and have had a good day. The forecast for tomorrow is good and the walk looks amazing, so fingers crossed.

Tuesday 14th of June la Balme de Rencurel to Grenoble

Mid walk change of plan, instead of stopping at Autrans, I carried on walking to Grenoble. The point of no return was 3.30 in the afternoon when I had to turn in the wrong direction to Autrans, which was about 90 minutes away, or carry on in the right direction to Grenoble, which was about 5 hours away. Going backwards was more painful than going forwards so I went to Grenoble. Took me a bit longer than I had hoped after getting lost at St-Nizier but I got to Grenoble just after 9. Walking for 13 and a half hours, 2300 metres of climb and 43 kilometres, sore feet but no permanent damage.

Got away from la Balme de Rencurel by 7.30. The hotel gave me an early breakfast and the biggest sandwich so far, had everything in it including little gerkins, top sandwich award. The weather was OK but looking up the valley it was cloudy. Just like at la Vacherie, three days ago, when the wind is from the north the clouds seem to hang on the tops of the mountains. Looking south the views were great.



Steady climb up the Rencurel valley and then a short tough ascent over the ridge into the Autrans valley. As soon as you got above 1300 metres the views disappeared in the mist. I was on outskirts of Autran, looking across a sunny valley by about 11.30.

Autrans

Motivation was a bit difficult at this point. The plan involved walking around this huge semi-circle, which was probably going to be in the cloud, only to come back to a point I had got to mid-morning. Anyway I pressed on climbing up through trees and after about 90 minutes my fears were confirmed. I was standing on a ridge, at the Signal de Nave, out of the trees but looking into the mist.

On the ridge in the mist

No choice but to carry on around stopping periodically to commiserate with other walkers sitting at the frequent view points staring into the cloud. Not only couldn't I see it was also hard work as it was far from flat, with a series of mini peaks all around to the loop.

It then started to clear and for the last third of the ridge I got some amazing views: looking back along the ridge with it's huge cliffs; into the Isere valley with Grenoble looking deceptively close; and across the valley to the Chartreuse, the next stage of the walk.

The Ridge looking east

Ridge above the Isere

I blame the improvement in the weather for the decision to carry on. After walking in the clouds it was now just so nice that I didn't really want to end the walk going in the wrong direction. I could see Grenoble and, despite the fact that the route went in the opposite direction, my optimistic streak was unconsciously telling me it would be easy.

Going away from Grenoble meant going to St-Nizier, which meant going down to Engins and then back up and then climbing over an incredibly steep cliff (featured in the picture below). I would have stopped at St-Nizier if I could have found some accommodation but as it was I just got lost. Was in too much of a hurry to check the map and the route has changed. At one point I was heading along a bit of the GR9 in the wrong direction.

Le Moucherotte

Anyway I eventually found a route down and after 600 metres of descent was in the suburbs of Grenoble. After such a day the hard surfaces were very painful but I made it to somewhere near the middle, found a cheap hotel, got showered and went out and bought a pizza. What treats.

Have now got three days without walking, so no blogging until Saturday. Staying with a friend about a hours train journey from Grenoble and then back again on Saturday to start 10 days of walking to the Swiss border.