Stage 10 - The E4 from Grenoble to the Swiss Border

By the time I got to Grenoble I was three days ahead of schedule.  Because friends had booked flights and were expecting to meet me at a particular place, I had to lose some days.  Some friends near Grenoble had offered to put me up so taking a few days out made a lot of sense.  I finished walking on the Wednesday and was back in Grenoble lunch time on the Saturday.  It rained almost continually for the three days so my timing for once was impeccable.

View across the Isere Valley

Getting to the Swiss border, where the E4 turns firmly east, involves a journey of some 245 kms, 10,500 metres of climb and 9110 of descent.  It took me 9 days with some long days where the accommodation was a bit limited.

Monday 27th of June Col de la Foucille to Saint Cergue

So I make three sorts of decision: good ones; lucky ones; dumb ones.

Today was a dumb one. The reason I stayed at Col de la Foucille rather than go down to the much nicer town of Mijoux was because I was going to walk along the ridge I had enjoyed yesterday and join the Jura Ridgeway on Mont Dole. While paying the bill in a very dodgy hotel - first hotel to charge for wifi and full of coach loads of French pensioners having a good time - I noticed a map which suggested that to join the E4 you stay in France longer carrying on with the GR 9 to La Cure.

That bit of information was enough for me and despite preparing for a short day, starting late with minimum water, I set of on a walk of unknown length on a really hot day. Involved leaving the high open ridge, going down the hill to Mijoux, heading in the wrong direction for a while on the other side of the valley, before meandering my way to the border town of La Cure which was still 8 kilometres from Saint Cergue. Ended up walking for 9 and half hours, about 33 kilometres with 1700 metres of climb.

It wasn't a bad walk but true be told I think my original route, walking over Mont Dole, would have been better. Would have spent more time out of the trees with better views. Worse still when I got to La Cure a sign told me I was on the E2 not the E4 so even my extra long walk might have been wrong.

The particular compensations from today was a Chamois grazing just above a ski run as I was leaving Col de la Foucille this morning and the really pretty meadows on top of ridge on the other side of Mijoux. Also got several views of the Mont Blanc but such was the heat today that it was like looking at ghost of a mountain shrouded in the haze.

Up close with an Ibex

Shady path

Upland pasture

There really is a border crossing at La Cure although I not sure what it's for. When I took the picture below I thought I had crossed from France into Switzerland only to work out shortly after that I had actually crossed the other way and had to go back again.

The border at La Cure

Completely different footpath signs in Switzerland and the white and red markers which I have enjoyed since Tarifa have gone with yellow markers now the predominant colour. Have a good GPS trail while I'm on the Jura Ridgeway but I'm now living totally without maps. After today that might be something I'll end up regretting.

On the GR5 to Saint Cergue

Not sure if the picture below will work but it is supposed to show my route for the next few days.

Jura Crestway

Saturday 25th June St-Germain-de-Joux to Lelex

Touch wood but everything does seem to be going very well at moment. Maybe I'm just now getting the full benefits of the break I had last week but today was quite a big walk, 30 kilometres and 1800 metres of ascent, but it all went past in a very pleasant blur.

The weather helped, it's absolutely perfect, not too hot but clear blue skies. I was also listening to a back catalogue of Frank Skinner podcasts and I hardly notice a steady climb if I'm just a bit distracted. Also getting updates from home about a major family event which is unfolding at the moment so all in all the walk was a bit of a back drop.

Got away from the hotel in St-Germain-de-Joux (bit pricey) by 8, got stocked up in the local shop, and was already high above the village by 8.30.

St-Germain-de-Joux

Most of the walk today was high up but in trees with only the occasional meadow to break things up. There was one view point looking east across a valley with snow covered alps in the background but the atmosphere didn't make for a brilliant photograph.

Approaching Giron

View out to Monnetier

The bees today were particularly noticeable. The noise was so loud at one point that it was almost like standing next to a motorway. A particular sort of flower in small meadow surrounded by trees seemed to attract them from miles around.

Flower laden meadows

My favourite bit of the walk was around a feature called the Cret au Merles where trees for once gave way to open countryside. Was being enjoyed by a lot of other hikers and a very casual looking group of horse riders.

Cret de Chalam

Jura

Arrived at Lelex at about 6, so a 10 hour walk. Lovely summer evening and after a couple of hours got the news I have been waiting for all day, the safe arrival of Christine's first grandchild.

Friday 24th June Les Plans d'Hortonnes to St Germain de Joux

Just when I started to get my booking room act together in one country I have to work out how to do it in another. Booked my last two nights in France and if I work out where the routes join up (no clues anywhere) I will be in Switzerland on Monday. Nearly two countries down and only four to go, but they start to come thick and fast from here on in.

After yesterday's big walk today was more of a stroll, just 24 kilometres, mainly downhill with just 400 metres of climb. I'm going to pay for it tomorrow.

Les Plans d'Hortonnes is a little cross country skiing resort about 3 kilometres off the GR9, not really a village. The hotel was nice however and I did fall in love with their dog. Maybe a reaction to the savage one I met yesterday. I thought the feeling was reciprocated when she left town with me but after following me for about thirty minutes she thought the better of it and returned home.

Walking Companion

It was a nice walk today, the weather was dry (a bit cold), but not a massive amount to write home about in terms of scenery. Mainly walking across a feature called the Plateau de Retord which was fairly flat, made for easy walking, but also meant that you didn't get any big views. Huge numbers of cattle enjoying the summer grazing.

Who you looking at!

Plateau Retord

Having descending through some mixed forest, nice and soft underfoot, I arrived at the hotel in St Germain de Joux by 3.30. Plenty of time to rest up and start thinking about Switzerland.

Thursday 23rd June Culoz to Les Plans d'Hortonnes

Last night I hadn't been able to find anywhere to stay. Everywhere was either full up, only open at the weekend or only accepting groups. I had found a hotel at Les Plans d'Hortonnes but there was no reply when I rang them. Les Plans d'Hortonnes was a long way so if I could find a hotel would need an early start. Decided that I would have an early breakfast, ring after breakfast, and if I didn't get through I'd stay in Culoz. After trying all last night someone answered the phone at 7.45 this morning so the walk was on.

The downside was that the weather was poor. Today's walk was all about le Grand Colombier. Like Canigou and Mount Aigoul I was about to climb to the top of a really good place to see stuff on a cloudy day. The upside, as well not having to hang around in Culoz, was that a 1200 metre climb in a cool mist was better than having to climb when it's hot and humid.

In the rain climbing up the Grand Colombier

The only real challenge associated with the climb was a dog attack just before I got the top. The dog was a sort of double sized terrier and was really trying to bite me. It's owners were mending a fence in the distance and in a fairly half hearted way seemed to be calling the dog off. It was going round and round me in decreasing circles and if it wasn't for my sticks would have been getting very familiar. Not wanting to offend it's owners I was a just a bit reticent in my defence but in the end had to be a bit more positive and after connecting with the dog's nose it shot off. Thank goodness for sticks.

The views from the top of the le Grand Colombier would have been brilliant. Took a picture of myself which didn't quite work.

Misty at the top

Bad photo day

The rest of the walk was nice although not spectacular. The weather was getting better all the time but it was short views across pretty valleys and through woods and not the big panoramas I had been hoping for. Did get to walk through a field with dozens of very inquisitive horses some with bells around there necks in the fashion of Alpine cows and again I was pleased to have my sticks.

Meadows at the top

Transhumanance horses

A big walk, just over 10 hours. Got 30 kilometres closer to Budapest and climbed over 1800 metres.

Wednesday 22nd June St Maurice de Rotherens to Culoz

The Gite d'Etape man at St Maurice de Rotherens was a very nice, and having been shown his underground discotechque last night I was invited, just before I left this morning, into his underground chapel. He invited me to light a candle for my family which I did. There is a lot of family goings on at the moment so I for one am not going to tempt fate.

The picture below shows the Gite d'Etape, definitely a work in progress.

 St Maurice de Rotherens Gite D'Etape

A big walk today, 36 kilometres and 800 metres of climb, and very varied both in terms of landscape and weather. Left at 7.30 and arrived in Culoz just after 6.

Not sure when but at some point I have joined another spur of the St James Way. All the signs had then St James trade mark, the scallop shell, and lots of walkers were travelling with a shell attached to their bag. They were all going in the opposite direction to me which I guess makes sense.

Following the St James Way

For the first part of the walk I continued along the same ridge I finished yesterday's walk on. Even early on it was hot and humid and after about a hour it started to rain. By mid morning it had stopped but was now more humid than ever. Was walking through trees but eventually got some views of the River Rhone which was now right against the ridge.

The Rhone

After about 5 hours I arrived at Yenne which looked like a nice place with plenty of accommodation and, if you were on a leisurely schedule would be a good place to stop.

Instead I carried on for a while walking along the banks of the Rhone itself before heading across the flood plain to steep ridge which the route just had to climb over. It was then into vine alley, quite pretty actually, before arriving at another picture postcard town Chanoz.

Vineyards

Chanaz

Was soon walking along the banks of the Rhone again and the weather started to deteriorate. The reason my schedule is taking me to Culoz, rather than stopping at Yenne or Chanoz, is that the next stage involves climbing up the le Grand Columbier, which is a big climb with a shortage of accommodation. It seemed to attracting lots of thunder and lightening, not exactly inviting.

Grand Colombier

On the way into Culoz I completed my second Rhone crossing although, unlike last time it was now pouring with rain. Struggling to find anywhere to stay tomorrow night and I might just have to stop for a day in Culoz.

Crossing the Rhone in the rain

June 21st Echelles to St Maurice de Rotherens

Currently in a night in a hotel followed by a night in gite d'etape routine. Felt a bit ripped off last night given that I got a table d'hote but then paid a course by course price, a sort of menu price without getting to see the menu. No idea what's going on. Given how primitive the place is I'm staying in tonight it should be exceptionally cheap.

Was pleased to get on the road this morning as I was feeling self conscious. Despite washing my t-shirt last night it still smelt this morning and I couldn't help notice the landlady opening the window just after I sat down for breakfast. Today was very hot and sticky.

Given the position of the hotel to the north west of Echelles I decided not to tramp all the way back into town but instead headed north picking up the GR 9 just to the west of Attignat-Oncin. It was still early, wasn't too hot, and despite walking along roads the day started well.

Looking back to Chartreuse

After walking through a mix of trees and meadows, and just before arriving at the town of Bridoire, you go through the pretty Gorge du Grenand whose caves where used by the Resistance as an arms store.

The River Grenant

Stocked up with peaches, bananas and chocolate in Bridoire before climbing up through the heat to the pretty village on Onwin. Had left the chocolate on top on my bag so had to consume the whole lot before it got too disgusting.

La Bridoire

The walk then took you through trees along a ridge and the occasional gaps presented some brilliant views across the valley to the west. The yellow tinge in the trees are the flowers from the sweet chestnuts and hidden somewhere down there, and quite close, is the Rhone.

On the ridge above the Rhone Valley

Hang Glider

Although the weather got cloudy as the day went on, and is now starting to look really stormy, the high massifs of both the Chartreuse and the Vercors were clearly visible. Particularly nice to spot were the distinctive line of the Grand Veymont which I had seen on the walk up to Rencurel from Pont-en-Royans.

Chartreuse with the Vercors in the distance

Postscript

Interesting evening.

Having agreed that dinner would be served at 7.30, my host starts ringing a bell outside my room (I'm the only person here), at 6.30 shouting "aperitif". On offer is a huge glass of sweet white wine.

Dinner starts at 7. Huge quantities, firstly soup, secondly cold meats and salad, thirdly pork and pasta and then cheese. All with a nice bottle of Cote de Rhone.

My host then takes me around his Gite D'Etape. Originally a tiny farm house he has been extending it in all directions. One direction is down and he shows me the disco area he is building underneath, in the rock, and we share a very floral snnaps, accompanied by lights and music. He explains that the expansion involves a lot of drilling and that he has been hammering away with his pneumatic drill since 1968.

Monday 20th of June La Plagne to Les Echelles

So today I paid for yesterday. Knackered after such a huge walk, today dragged on and although it was only 20 kilometres I was tired and missing turns and contrived to make it another 4 kilometres longer. It was also very hot although I shouldn't complain as the weather forecast for the middle of the week is bad.

If I have got this right, today was my last day in the high Chartreuse crossing the highest part yesterday. By the end of today, and by the time I had reached Les Echelles, I was in gentler countryside, still very pretty but nothing like as dramatic as yesterday.

Today was actually a fairly easy walk, no big climbs or descents although with a bit too much road walking. Essentially a down hill walk to Epernay, a gentle climb out of the valley via le Desert (views of Mont Blanc), and then over the road pass into the next valley. I think the next village was St-Pierre d'Entremont, but can't make it out on the map (got lost there anyway), followed by a huge meander down through a forest (where I got lost again) before emerging via the edge of the splendid Gorge de l'Echaillon into the Les Eschelles valley.

The Gite D'Etape at La Plagne

Across the Valley to La Cochette

Having got to Les Echelles I then discover how far my accommodation was out of town explaining why the host had offered to pick me up when my friend Lesley had made the booking. The sign said three kilometres, I rang them and tried to arrange a pick up point but we couldn't understand each other, so I set of to walk it. Fortunately they then rang Lesley, who rang me with instructions where to wait for them in Les Echelles. Turned out that it was far more than three kilometres, more like six, so I was saved from a hideous end of the day tramp down a busy hot road. Another example of my good fortune (touch wood).

Sunday 19th June Le Sappey en Chartreuse to La Plagne

Definitely too far but also a contender for the best walk of the trip. 30 kilometres, 1900 metres of climb, stunning scenery, mud, slippery rocks as well as some really challenging climbing; good job tomorrow is a short walk as my feet and legs feel seriously battered.

Ideally I would have got away from the hotel that charged too much sooner but breakfast wasn't until 8.30 and I wasn't walking until just before 9. Drizzly start to the day but weather-wise it felt promising. Although it was misty the sun kept breaking through illuminating great views.

Chamechaude

The first big spectacular was the Dent de Crolles, first approaching it and then climbing up it's side. Approaching it involved a long slow muddy walk through trees (clothes quickly rendered filthy), followed by a stiff walk up an open hill and then a scramble through rocks and a bit of via ferrata.

Dent de Crolles

Heading down to the Col de Coq

In the scrambling queue

This was the big climb of the day, a 400 metre climb up to 1700 metres but the route then dropped a bit followed by another 300 metre climb up to 1900 metres. Just as I got to the col at the top the sky cleared enough to see Mont Blanc and the views all around were amazing. Both of these climbs were really busy but that just added to the fun.

Back to the Vercors

Ridge of the Roche de Bellefont

For the first time all day I now had some relatively easy walking but it was 3.00 and I was no where near half way. After following a long dry limestone valley gently down wards the scenery again became more dramatic and there was a final tough climb before I reached a wide grassy plateau full of cattle. It was now 6.30.

Roc de Bellefont

Upland meadow on the way to Col d'Alpette

The final challenge was an steep descent down to La Plagne. Had already fallen over twice and my legs were like jelly. An absolutely stunning evening I had soon dropped well below the cliffs which looked absolutely brilliant in the setting sun.

Evening sun on the rock face above the Col d'Alpette

Arrived at Gite d'Etape, at about 7.45, got a very quick shower and then had a great meal shared will a table full of French walkers - much more fun and better value than the hotel that charged too much. Great day.