A Vercors Circular

I got a taste of the Vercors on my trip along the E4 in 2011 but felt that I might be missing the best parts.  The E4 took me along the western side of the plateau and although I experienced some of the huge characteristic limestone cliffs and gorges it was the ridge on the eastern side that looked really special.  The escarpment, particularly when viewed from the north from the Chartreuse, looked like a frozen wave magically captured at the point of breaking. Well I’ve now been back, walked my own “Vercors Circular” and can confirm that this is an amazing place.

Day 2 Crete des Rochers de la Balme

Geologically part of the sub-alpine Jura, the Vercors is separated from the Chartreuse, a sister range to the north, by the Isere Valley.  It’s generally described as a plateau but the reality feels more complicated.  Huge cliffs form the north, east and western boundaries but there are valleys on top of the “plateau” running north / south and gorges which slice into it from east to west. Across the valley to the east you have the Alps proper and to the west the Rhone valley and beyond that the Massif Central.

Stage 8 - The E4 through the Cevennes and the Ardeche

Stage 8 provides a high level description of my walk along the E4 from Lodeve on the southern edge of the Massif Central to Chateauneuf du-Rhone on the eastern side of the River Rhone.  I started this Stage  on the 27th of May and was in Chateauneuf du-Rhone on the 6th of June.

I was very much looking forward to his stretch of the E4.  The route takes you through the Cevennes and the Ardeche, distinctive parts of France both with a reputation for good walking.  The Cevennes and the Cevennes National Park are on the eastern side of the Massif Central and run from the Montague Noire (Black Mountains), which I crossed  a week earlier, through to the Monts du Vivarais.  If you drive through France it's the place where signs on the side of the motorway point out the watershed between the rivers which flow west to the Atlantic (the Loire and Allier) and those which flow into the Rhone and south to the Mediterranean.  With its limestone geology the area is also famous for its massive gorges, in particular the Gorge du Tarn.

Stage 7 - The E4 from Carcassone to Lodeve

In its own right, standalone, the walk from Carcassone to Lodeve has a lot going for it.  Both ends are easy to get to and sensible people would spend a bit of time at Carcassone which should be on most people’s must see list.  The walking itself is easy, pleasant rather than spectacular, and there is plenty of accommodation along the route in interesting French towns and villages.   The only downside is the long trip from Carcassonne to Mazemet, which really needs to be broken up with a taxi trip, and one or two bits of fairly dull walking through commercial pine plantations.  It’s good if not quite spectacular walking.

If you’re walking 5,000 kilometres you probably fail the sensible person test and I had decided that I didn’t want to stay in Carcassone.  Had done a huge walk the day before arriving, got there late, didn’t get my bearings and ended up in an expensive hotel.  I went through the walls, into the old town, and to me it felt 100 per cent tourist.  Don’t get me wrong I love going to see interesting places with lots of history but I struggle to flip from  the mode of walk walk walk to site see site see site see.  So apart from a perfunctory tick in the box I didn’t really see Carcassonne.

Saturday 25th June St-Germain-de-Joux to Lelex

Touch wood but everything does seem to be going very well at moment. Maybe I'm just now getting the full benefits of the break I had last week but today was quite a big walk, 30 kilometres and 1800 metres of ascent, but it all went past in a very pleasant blur.

The weather helped, it's absolutely perfect, not too hot but clear blue skies. I was also listening to a back catalogue of Frank Skinner podcasts and I hardly notice a steady climb if I'm just a bit distracted. Also getting updates from home about a major family event which is unfolding at the moment so all in all the walk was a bit of a back drop.

Got away from the hotel in St-Germain-de-Joux (bit pricey) by 8, got stocked up in the local shop, and was already high above the village by 8.30.

St-Germain-de-Joux

Most of the walk today was high up but in trees with only the occasional meadow to break things up. There was one view point looking east across a valley with snow covered alps in the background but the atmosphere didn't make for a brilliant photograph.

Approaching Giron

View out to Monnetier

The bees today were particularly noticeable. The noise was so loud at one point that it was almost like standing next to a motorway. A particular sort of flower in small meadow surrounded by trees seemed to attract them from miles around.

Flower laden meadows

My favourite bit of the walk was around a feature called the Cret au Merles where trees for once gave way to open countryside. Was being enjoyed by a lot of other hikers and a very casual looking group of horse riders.

Cret de Chalam

Jura

Arrived at Lelex at about 6, so a 10 hour walk. Lovely summer evening and after a couple of hours got the news I have been waiting for all day, the safe arrival of Christine's first grandchild.

Thursday 23rd June Culoz to Les Plans d'Hortonnes

Last night I hadn't been able to find anywhere to stay. Everywhere was either full up, only open at the weekend or only accepting groups. I had found a hotel at Les Plans d'Hortonnes but there was no reply when I rang them. Les Plans d'Hortonnes was a long way so if I could find a hotel would need an early start. Decided that I would have an early breakfast, ring after breakfast, and if I didn't get through I'd stay in Culoz. After trying all last night someone answered the phone at 7.45 this morning so the walk was on.

The downside was that the weather was poor. Today's walk was all about le Grand Colombier. Like Canigou and Mount Aigoul I was about to climb to the top of a really good place to see stuff on a cloudy day. The upside, as well not having to hang around in Culoz, was that a 1200 metre climb in a cool mist was better than having to climb when it's hot and humid.

In the rain climbing up the Grand Colombier

The only real challenge associated with the climb was a dog attack just before I got the top. The dog was a sort of double sized terrier and was really trying to bite me. It's owners were mending a fence in the distance and in a fairly half hearted way seemed to be calling the dog off. It was going round and round me in decreasing circles and if it wasn't for my sticks would have been getting very familiar. Not wanting to offend it's owners I was a just a bit reticent in my defence but in the end had to be a bit more positive and after connecting with the dog's nose it shot off. Thank goodness for sticks.

The views from the top of the le Grand Colombier would have been brilliant. Took a picture of myself which didn't quite work.

Misty at the top

Bad photo day

The rest of the walk was nice although not spectacular. The weather was getting better all the time but it was short views across pretty valleys and through woods and not the big panoramas I had been hoping for. Did get to walk through a field with dozens of very inquisitive horses some with bells around there necks in the fashion of Alpine cows and again I was pleased to have my sticks.

Meadows at the top

Transhumanance horses

A big walk, just over 10 hours. Got 30 kilometres closer to Budapest and climbed over 1800 metres.

Wednesday 22nd June St Maurice de Rotherens to Culoz

The Gite d'Etape man at St Maurice de Rotherens was a very nice, and having been shown his underground discotechque last night I was invited, just before I left this morning, into his underground chapel. He invited me to light a candle for my family which I did. There is a lot of family goings on at the moment so I for one am not going to tempt fate.

The picture below shows the Gite d'Etape, definitely a work in progress.

 St Maurice de Rotherens Gite D'Etape

A big walk today, 36 kilometres and 800 metres of climb, and very varied both in terms of landscape and weather. Left at 7.30 and arrived in Culoz just after 6.

Not sure when but at some point I have joined another spur of the St James Way. All the signs had then St James trade mark, the scallop shell, and lots of walkers were travelling with a shell attached to their bag. They were all going in the opposite direction to me which I guess makes sense.

Following the St James Way

For the first part of the walk I continued along the same ridge I finished yesterday's walk on. Even early on it was hot and humid and after about a hour it started to rain. By mid morning it had stopped but was now more humid than ever. Was walking through trees but eventually got some views of the River Rhone which was now right against the ridge.

The Rhone

After about 5 hours I arrived at Yenne which looked like a nice place with plenty of accommodation and, if you were on a leisurely schedule would be a good place to stop.

Instead I carried on for a while walking along the banks of the Rhone itself before heading across the flood plain to steep ridge which the route just had to climb over. It was then into vine alley, quite pretty actually, before arriving at another picture postcard town Chanoz.

Vineyards

Chanaz

Was soon walking along the banks of the Rhone again and the weather started to deteriorate. The reason my schedule is taking me to Culoz, rather than stopping at Yenne or Chanoz, is that the next stage involves climbing up the le Grand Columbier, which is a big climb with a shortage of accommodation. It seemed to attracting lots of thunder and lightening, not exactly inviting.

Grand Colombier

On the way into Culoz I completed my second Rhone crossing although, unlike last time it was now pouring with rain. Struggling to find anywhere to stay tomorrow night and I might just have to stop for a day in Culoz.

Crossing the Rhone in the rain

June 21st Echelles to St Maurice de Rotherens

Currently in a night in a hotel followed by a night in gite d'etape routine. Felt a bit ripped off last night given that I got a table d'hote but then paid a course by course price, a sort of menu price without getting to see the menu. No idea what's going on. Given how primitive the place is I'm staying in tonight it should be exceptionally cheap.

Was pleased to get on the road this morning as I was feeling self conscious. Despite washing my t-shirt last night it still smelt this morning and I couldn't help notice the landlady opening the window just after I sat down for breakfast. Today was very hot and sticky.

Given the position of the hotel to the north west of Echelles I decided not to tramp all the way back into town but instead headed north picking up the GR 9 just to the west of Attignat-Oncin. It was still early, wasn't too hot, and despite walking along roads the day started well.

Looking back to Chartreuse

After walking through a mix of trees and meadows, and just before arriving at the town of Bridoire, you go through the pretty Gorge du Grenand whose caves where used by the Resistance as an arms store.

The River Grenant

Stocked up with peaches, bananas and chocolate in Bridoire before climbing up through the heat to the pretty village on Onwin. Had left the chocolate on top on my bag so had to consume the whole lot before it got too disgusting.

La Bridoire

The walk then took you through trees along a ridge and the occasional gaps presented some brilliant views across the valley to the west. The yellow tinge in the trees are the flowers from the sweet chestnuts and hidden somewhere down there, and quite close, is the Rhone.

On the ridge above the Rhone Valley

Hang Glider

Although the weather got cloudy as the day went on, and is now starting to look really stormy, the high massifs of both the Chartreuse and the Vercors were clearly visible. Particularly nice to spot were the distinctive line of the Grand Veymont which I had seen on the walk up to Rencurel from Pont-en-Royans.

Chartreuse with the Vercors in the distance

Postscript

Interesting evening.

Having agreed that dinner would be served at 7.30, my host starts ringing a bell outside my room (I'm the only person here), at 6.30 shouting "aperitif". On offer is a huge glass of sweet white wine.

Dinner starts at 7. Huge quantities, firstly soup, secondly cold meats and salad, thirdly pork and pasta and then cheese. All with a nice bottle of Cote de Rhone.

My host then takes me around his Gite D'Etape. Originally a tiny farm house he has been extending it in all directions. One direction is down and he shows me the disco area he is building underneath, in the rock, and we share a very floral snnaps, accompanied by lights and music. He explains that the expansion involves a lot of drilling and that he has been hammering away with his pneumatic drill since 1968.

Monday 20th of June La Plagne to Les Echelles

So today I paid for yesterday. Knackered after such a huge walk, today dragged on and although it was only 20 kilometres I was tired and missing turns and contrived to make it another 4 kilometres longer. It was also very hot although I shouldn't complain as the weather forecast for the middle of the week is bad.

If I have got this right, today was my last day in the high Chartreuse crossing the highest part yesterday. By the end of today, and by the time I had reached Les Echelles, I was in gentler countryside, still very pretty but nothing like as dramatic as yesterday.

Today was actually a fairly easy walk, no big climbs or descents although with a bit too much road walking. Essentially a down hill walk to Epernay, a gentle climb out of the valley via le Desert (views of Mont Blanc), and then over the road pass into the next valley. I think the next village was St-Pierre d'Entremont, but can't make it out on the map (got lost there anyway), followed by a huge meander down through a forest (where I got lost again) before emerging via the edge of the splendid Gorge de l'Echaillon into the Les Eschelles valley.

The Gite D'Etape at La Plagne

Across the Valley to La Cochette

Having got to Les Echelles I then discover how far my accommodation was out of town explaining why the host had offered to pick me up when my friend Lesley had made the booking. The sign said three kilometres, I rang them and tried to arrange a pick up point but we couldn't understand each other, so I set of to walk it. Fortunately they then rang Lesley, who rang me with instructions where to wait for them in Les Echelles. Turned out that it was far more than three kilometres, more like six, so I was saved from a hideous end of the day tramp down a busy hot road. Another example of my good fortune (touch wood).

Thursday 19th May Lagrasse to Carcassonne

From the prettiest village in France to Carcassonne a world heritage site. Trouble was there is a massive amount of walking in between and after walking in the heat for 10 and half hours, wandering briefly around the world heritage site, I rushed off to find a hotel and forget to even take a photograph.

Had got it my head that I would be going around the cliff and travelling along a valley, a long way but not much climbing so fast walking. Well the hour or so after leaving the prettiest village in France it was going to that plan when suddenly the path takes you of the road and straight up a really step path, climbing 400 metres to the top of the ridge. Although not so clear today there were still good views of the sea, the Pryennees and of course Canigou.

Leaving Lagrasse

Most of the ridge walks I've done over the last few days have behaved properly and left you up on the ridge. Unfortunately this one was the exception with a series of gorges cutting through the ridge at right angles meaning that you were not left up for long. I think I had to go up and down about 4 gorges which explains why I have ended up climbing 1600 metres as well as walking 38 kilometres.

It was also very hot. The wind has shifted from north and is now coming of the sea from the south so is warm and more humid. Today there was a lot of walking across limestone pavements, through brush, and up and down very pebbly paths, all tough in the heat.

I think part of the walk was along the Corbieres wine route so, when not on top of the ridge you were down amongst the vines and some lovely villages.

Ribaute

Medieval bridge at Monze

Anyway by the time I had trudged into Carcassonne I was knackered. To make matters worse I think I'm going to have to put in a mega walk tomorrow. Just can't find anywhere to stay anywhere near the trail between here and Mazemet which is 50 kilometres away. One of the reasons I didn't get any pictures of the Unesco world heritage site is that I had to rush of the get some food tomorrow before the shops shut. Plan is to get away really early.

Finally, to make matters even worse, my shoes are on their last legs. Although nothing is getting in, there is a split in one of the soles. Christine is bringing out a new pair (the third pair) next week but it's touch and go as to whether they will last that long.