Day 14 Montpellier to Brighton - Thouars

125 kms - up hills and down dales

I'm not religious, far from it, but a religious upbringing has left it's mark. I have a sneaking suspicion that things catch up with you and doing a bad turn comes at a cost. Last night we booked a room in a small hotel in St Loup sur Thouet, it looked nice, good value and had great reviews. Today however we were moving quickly, got to St Loup early afternoon, and sailed on past. I felt very guilty and I can't help it, I blame all our subsequent problems on that misdemeanour.

Day 13 Montpellier to Brighton - Noirt

90kms - Languid and long

Today we left the coast and headed inland; it was hot and humid. In terms of route the bit change was leaving the Vélodysée after about 25kms at Marans and joining the Vélo Francette, the route that will take us on our last 600 kms all the way to the Normandy coast.

Starting La Velo Francette

We've had a good day's cycling but it was quite tough. The challenge came from two sources: the first was the route and the second was the heat.

Day 12 Montpellier to Brighton - La Rochelle

50 kms - between the sea and the motorway

Today we were both somewhat distracted by a mission which made the journey to La Rochelle a secondary task - 'find a bike shop'. After yesterday's second (actually 4th - Ed) puncture an overwhelming volume of advice has persuaded us to replace Christine's tyres: we still have a long way to go.

The first address we googled was on an industrial estate just north of Rochefort. After getting into serious trouble for loosing Christine (at a hairy double roundabout in the rush hour - Ed) we found a huge warehouse, clearly the French equivalent of Sports Direct and unlikely to provide us with what we needed.

A bikavan (?)

Day 11 Montpellier to Brighton - Rochefort

91 kms - the rough with the smooth

Today was our best day's cycling so far, lots of variation and stunning scenery. It was not however without its challenges and even today we managed to pick up a puncture. You have to take the rough with the smooth.

Last night, a Monday night, we had the worst food we've had in France, really bad. But tonight, for the same price we had the best.

With this sort of trip you never know what's going to happen next.

The weather was perfect when left our hotel in Royan this morning. I'd cleaned the bikes up yesterday, given the chains a desperately needed oil and after a day's rest we were pleased to get on the Vélodysée again.

Remains of the Atlantic Wall

Day 10 - Montpellier to Brighton - Royan

85 kms - through the dunes

For the second day running I've woken in the morning to the sound of waves breaking gently on a beach outside the bedroom window. Not bad, particularly as we arrived at the Atlantic just in time for a spell of fine weather. Today we are taking a break, at the mid-point in our journey back to Brighton, and having a day out of the saddle relaxing in Royan. Royan is a quiet seaside town, almost stylish, a sort of French Bournemouth in the fifties.

Royan

Day 9 Montpellier to Bordeaux - Lacanou Océan

75kms from Bordeaux to the sea.

Things didn't start too well this morning in Bordeaux. It was freezing cold and for some reason Christine took a total dislike to the cafe where I decided to stop for breakfast. For me the choice didn't matter, the petit dejeuner is always a grande ripoff and it doesn't make that much difference where the ripoff happens. As far a Christine was concerned however my choice revealed a fundamental character flaw which could only be remedied by a sustained silence.

The silence was sustained as we passed along the river, through old Bordeaux and out into the suburbs. The suburbs to the west of Bordeaux went on and on and, despite the beautiful surface and the company of hundreds of runners and other cyclists, our glum mood was sustained.

An ugly route leaving Bordeaux

Day 8 Montpellier to Brighton - Bordeaux

60 kms cruising into Bordeaux

We've been cycling for a week and with about 560 kms under our belts have completed over a third of the total distance. We reach the Atlantic coast tomorrow and the plan, providing the weather improves a bit, is to slow down and take a breather for a day or two before starting our journey up through France.

The cycling so far has lived up to expectations but we have not had good weather. France has been hit by a huge storm and measures are being taken to protect the world's greatest collections of art in Paris. Although the impact on our journey has not been as dramatic, two wet days have left me with a dreadful head cold and I'm feeling very sorry for myself (that's true, Ed).

Great stretch of new track on the way to Bordeaux