Day 2 Tarifa to Los Barrios

Hannah my daughter commented on yesterday's blog that it was typical of a Hayes not to know it was the Andalucian bank holiday; a bit hard but she has a point. We are a bit forgetful and in particular, often miss the obvious. Had a case of that this morning when I looked at my iPad clock and, because I hadn't changed it from UK time, didn't notice it was an hour late. So despite having persuaded the hotel to do an early breakfast, I didn't actually leave until 10am a bit late for a 35 kilometre walk. In the end I arrived at Los Barrios at 7.15pm, which given that they don't serve dinner until 9, wasn't a problem.

Great walk through a large natural park with a cork forest. Loads of wild life, in particular birds, and there was a large party of birdwatchers along the route. Everything is very green and the weather, which remains sunny, shows everything at its very best. A lot of wind turbines in the first third of the walk - not everyone's cup of tea.

The only moan I have is that the paths, although not metalled, are made to be accessible by vehicles. It wasn't that I saw many, I saw a couple, it's just they they are a bit hard underfoot. The last bit, into Los Barrios, was 6 kilometres along a road proper and my feet were on fire by the time I got to the hotel.

I am knackered tonight but critically have no blisters on my feet. Have another long day tomorrow, with a brilliant hotel at the end of it, and then it's a short day. I'm trying not to think about the whole walk, it's just too scary. I'm going to "take one day at a time".

Tarifa

Well I have arrived and I have done a bit of walking.

Apart from my Lidl experience it has been a good day.

I got to Tarifa in really good time. Straight of the plane, my rucksack was the third item on the conveyor, and then down the road and onto a bus to Tarifa. Absolutely perfect day, clear sky but a breeze which kept it was nice and fresh.

What I didn't know is that today is Andalucia day, a bank holiday, and all the shops are shut. Because I didn't know, I went on a wild goose chase following signs to Lidl. The signs were confusing and when after about a hour I eventually found myself in the Lidl car park I was the only one there. Thought it was something to do with thesiesta but no it turns out every thing is shut.Also shut was the island of Tarifa, connected to the mainland by a causeway, and technically the most southern bit of Spain. Because I couldn't get in so I started my walk at its gates.

Although Tarifa looked like a nice place, apart from the Lidl car park, I'm actually staying about 7 kilometres along the trail at the end of the beach at a small, but on bank holiday Monday, very busy surfing hotel. Tarifa is particularly famous for its wind and kite surfing and today there was a least 100 people flying about, it looked great.

The final thing that struck me is just how close Tarifa is to Africa. Tarifa is the point along the coast where the Mediterranean ends and Atlantic begins but with everything so green at the moment it could be a large Scottish loch rather than a sea crossing. Looking back to Tarifa, across the huge beach, the mountains you see behind the town are in Africa.

25th of February - departure minus three.

Less than three days to go, feeling very apprehensive.  It is a good job I've made so many commitments, without them I'd be staying at home.

The list of things I'm going to miss just gets longer, including some really important and exciting family things.  I'm also going to miss the "mighty Spurs" end of season run-in and the last six episodes of " The Killing".  Why am I doing this!

The good news is that the weather looks great in Tarifa.  I know the weather can still be unsettled in March and that it can be very wet - nice weather at the start of the walk would be a real bonus.

The bad news is that my bag has got heavier.  With all the bits and bobs it is now pretty full and 45 litres no longer seems excessive.  I guess I could drop the spare pair of Inov-8s for the first month, they don't weigh much but they take up a lot of room.

Going to the River Cafe tonight, having a leaving do in a pub in London on Saturday, and then a quite day with Christine on Sunday.  Monday, involves a 7 o'clock flight to Gibraltar,  a couple of buses just down the road to Tarifa and then I start. 

Final I packed my bag..

Well it's too late to worry now.  Flight's are booked, deposits on hotels have been paid and friends have even scheduled holidays to come and join me.  I have even made the decisions on what I'm going to wear and what I'm going to carry.


Firstly special thanks to Berghaus, Inov-8 and Osprey who between them have kitted me out.  180 days constant use will be a pretty extreme test of their gear and I know they are keen to see how it does.


In the world of walking footwear is perhaps the most controversial thing.  Well I'm not going totally bare foot but I am going very light weight and taking two pairs of Inov-8 trainers, the Inov-8 Terroc 330 and the 345 GTX.  I am already convinced that light footwear is best, particularly for this type of walking, and my only question mark is its longevity.  Taking two pairs is insurance against things falling apart but will also mean I will be able to change footwear in the evening. 


Nearly all my clothing is Berghaus.  I'm taking GORE-TEX® Paclite® Shell Overtrousers;  Dru Stretch GORE-TEX® Paclite® Shell Jacket; 2 pairs of Terrain zip off convertible trousers (hoping for maximum zip off) and a pair of Berghaus shorts; 4 T-shirts with argentium technology to prevent the smell (fat chance), one with long sleeves; and one Brenta Microfleece half zip top.  Apart from socks (4 pairs) all fabrics are synthetic, very easy to wash and very quick to dry.


I have already talked about my Osprey Exos 46 bag but I'm also taking an Osprey 3 litre Hyproform water reservoir (has a really neat magnet to keep the mouth piece in place) and their water proof cover.  Really worried about getting stuff wet so have go a couple of fold dry bags as well.


Other items of course include hat, gloves and walking sticks.  Always struggled with hats but at the moment I'm wearing a East German Army issue forage cap which at least is different. On sticks I have bought at pair of Fizan Compact which were both relatively cheap and very light.  


On the electronics I'm taking my Iphone and an Ipad.  The Ipad is probably a bit mad (adds about 800 grams) but it means I will be able to use it to read i-books and perhaps even watch a film.  It also provides some resilience in terms of GPS because I'll be able to use it as back-up to the Iphone which is going to be my main means of navigation.  Will do another blog on navigation although it is now too late to change my navigation approach.


Nearly all my overnight stops will allow me to recharge my electronics (just a couple of places where this might not be possible).  To supplement the Iphone battery I have bought a New Trent Iphone case, which both protects the Iphone and massively extends its battery life. I have also bought an additional Trent battery pack.  Have tested the Iphone and have been able to get 10 hours from it both listening to stuff and tracking my route. Everything charges of the same Apple charger although I will need a separate charger for my Panasonic Linux camera.


Based on the scales in my kitchen and excluding water and food I will be carrying just under 5 kilograms in my bag.  Food and water will add another 4 kilograms to this so I will starting each day with just shy of 20 lbs on my back.  


  

Support from Sir Chris Bonington

Sir Chris on Cleopatra

"I wish John Hayes the very best of luck for his attempt to be the first person to walk the trans-Europe E4 route in one go. Tarifa to Budapest looks like an epic trip.  John is trying to raise money for a really important Britain Nepal Medical Trust project and deserves all the support he can get".

Getting slightly apprehensive as the departure deadline approaches so support from Britain's best known mountaineer is a real fillip.  Sir Chris Bonington's record of achievement, including numerous first time ascents, is inspirational and his support for my project is a great honour. 

Guest Blog from Christine (the wife)

It's her indoors and it's only four and a bit weeks to blast off. I have to confess, I'm the kind of person who likes to be busy and I'm not exactly what you would call 'reflective'. So the prospect of John being away from the beginning of March until mid September is only just starting to sink in.

On the E4 in Austria

How will I fix those electrical goods when they conk out? How quickly will I feel terribly lonely? Will I recognise the hairy monster when I go out to join him on the walk? And the biggest one of all - how will we both feel at the end of it: is he going to be a different person? Will we click back together?

Clinging onto the E4 in Austria

One thing I do know. John's embarking on a wonderful adventure and I'm dead jealous. I'm also just a bit cross that he insisted on doing this in 2011 rather than wait till I was ready to abandon work and come with him. My initial theory as to his motives was that this was his way to stop me nagging him to 'do something'. But I now believe that he really wants to test himself and do this huge scary thing, and have the experience after to savour and share. And that's why I'm jealous.

An Austrian E4 meadow

Perhaps its as well I'm not joining him. I've just had my knee done and the Doc reckons I'm down to the last scrapings of cartilage in places. This salutary reminder of the ageing process suggests I'd be wise not to try this particular 5000k.

While John's away I am planning a number of displacement activities to keep me going - decorating the room in Hove which I hate (and which we argue about); knitting stuff for first grandchild due in June; having friends down for weekends and doing girlie stuff; getting that wetsuit out and swimming every weekend. But that won't stop me missing him.

So I shall be following the adventure through John's blog, just like everyone else. I've got my first 3 trips out to join him in Spain fixed, and am keen to get other slots firmed up. And be warned - I would really like to have him to myself when I go out, so please John mark the dates in red or something.

Christine




- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

I packed my bag and in I put

My bag

Getting into the final final countdown now and starting to put my gear together. Got my backpack today and I'm really pleased with it - it's an Osprey Exos 46.

Must admit I have been a big fan of Osprey bags ever since Christine and I bought their bags for our Haute Route trip eight years ago. It was the first time we had planned a place to place trip and carried our own stuff, and was such a brilliant adventure, that everything about it has taken on a sort of mythical status, including the bags.

Christine with bag with the Grande Combin in the background

It is amazing how much bags have changed in just eight years. The Osprey bags we bought were Eclipse 32s, and were pretty leading edge, but look really dated now. In particular the approach to compression has changed (the Eclipse has boards), the material has got lighter and even the straps and buckles have been downsized with the Exos.

Compared to anything else we saw at the time, it was clear that Osprey put a lot of thought into the design of their bags - call me simple but I just loved the whistle on chest strap. The functionality is still there but they have added loads more. Perhaps the biggest development is all the different compartments you now get. This means you can pack things in terms of frequency of use. Overnight stuff in the main bag, waterproofs in the rear zip pocket, food in the top bag and suncream, and possibly camera in the pockets on the hip belt.

The best thing about the Exos 46 is its comfort. Although it looks like a day bag, it comes with sort of aluminium frame you associate with bags designed for much heavier loads. While the mesh panel fits really snuggly on your back, everything is ventilated which should keep me cool as well as comfortable.






The picture above shows old and new sat side by side my front room. New not only looks really cool, but is less than half the weight of old with 30 per cent more capacity.  If anyone wants old let me know!