Day 2 Munich to Venice - Bad Tolz

27 kilometres 6-45 mins

Tonight we are in Bad Tolz in a lovely half timbered hotel, with huge quirky rooms and a balcony and set in a tree festooned garden up above the river.  Perfect but no Internet.

We walked 28 km to get here with a chunk of grizzly road walking towards the end.  It was supposed to take 7 hours but we did it in 6-45, and beating the schedule  meant a double beer ration at the end.  I'm  even getting a taste for wheat beer despite its soupy appearance.

We left Wolfratshausen at 8-45am fueled by an enormous breakfast. It was cold and grey with ominous  clouds but at least it wasn't raining.  We were soon crashing along forest trails, skirting but avoiding settlements and going south through the Isar valley. 

Day 1 Munich to Venice Wolfratshausen

36 kilometres 9 hours walking

The one word summary for today is 'wet'. It started raining at about 9-30, an hour after we left Munich, stopped at about 2 and then started again just before 5 as we struggled to find our hotel in Wolfratshausen.  To make matters worse, a navigational cock-up on my part meant that we lost an hour and as a result we got well and truly caught in the last downpour.

The 'new' town hall in Marienplatz

On the map this looked like a dull walk, a slog south along a path tracking the Isar River.  Despite the weather it was a nice walk and if the weather had been kind it would have been excellent.  Considering that the route starts in the middle of one of Germany's biggest cities it's surprising how quickly you get into the country.

'The Dream Path' - Munich to Venice

The idea of walking the 'Dream Path' grabbed me a couple of years ago when I was walking the red variant of the Via Alpina in Austria. Bad weather meant we were stuck on the Austria - Italian border at Pfitscherjoch in the company of several groups on their way from Munich to Venice (the border is about half-way).   Although it's relatively unknown in the UK, this walk is seen as the prize challenge for German Alpine hikers.

The attraction is immediately obvious. The route crosses the Alps from north to south and links two of Europe's most iconic destinations, starting in Munich's Mariënplatz and finishing in the Piazza San Marco in Venice.  Carefully planned in 1974 by Ludwig Grassler, an Alpinist from Wolfratshausen (the target for day 1) the walk is challenging but reasonably accessible. It takes you through some of the best scenery in the Alps: the Karwendel, Tuz and Zillertal Alps and across the main Alpine ridge. Travelling along the Alta Via 1 and 2 it also manages to grab the main highlights of the Dolomites.  While doing this it makes use of what is, without doubt, the best high altitude hiking infrastructure in the world.

Christine with a 'Dream Path' trekker in 2012

Cycling from Roscoff to Brighton via Paris

I'm having a bit of a whirlwind romance with my bike.  My bike and I have just got back from our first holiday together, 11 days in France.  At the moment we need a bit of 'space', slightly sick of the sight of each other, but I'm pretty sure that the French adventure has created a bond which we will want to enjoy again in the not too distant future.

The French cycling adventure was great fun and in many ways surprising.

The Route

My trip involved: a train journey down to Plymouth; a ferry across to Roscoff; a cycle ride along the Eurovelo 1 to Nantes; from Nantes to Orleans along the Eurovelo 6; from Orleans to Paris along the Eurovelo 3; from Paris to Dieppe along the Paris London route; and then home to Brighton via the Dieppe Newhaven ferry.

Day 11 - Brighton

I'm back home in Brighton and have completed my 'circuit' which started in Plymouth 12 days ago. Considering this is my first long distance cycling effort I'm feeling pretty pleased with myself.

A good last day France, perfect weather and a lovely cycle ride.  The only slight problem was that the ferry left at 8-30 rather than 6 (it's 6 most nights) so it was dark when I arrived in Newhaven. I don't have any lights (a mistake) so cycling back to Brighton was a bit of a challenge. It also meant hanging around in Dieppe for longer than anticipated.  To compensate the lunch, in a tiny restaurant near the harbour, was the best meal I've had in France.  I spent the afternoon recovering in the sun.

I left the hotel at about 8.30 in the morning.  There were 5 other cyclists there all going to Paris and the manager told me that cyclists were her biggest customer group in the summer.  She says she expects it to get even busier when the upgrade to the official London Paris route is completed next year.

Day 10 - Gournay-en-Bray

After yesterday's drama, today has been completely incident free. Leaving nothing to chance I'm staying in a hotel I identified last night and, apart from being conspicuously empty, it seems very nice.  After the trouble I got into from my wife me after last night's escapades, about being so mean, I might, on what will be my last night in France, treat myself to a decent meal.

There was nothing to hold me at the hotel this morning and despite the threat of the rush hour I decided to make an early escape.  I stopped for coffee and croissants in a bar and then headed back through dense traffic to St Cloud and into the beautiful Parc de St Cloud.

Paris seems to be surrounded by forests, lovely huge trees and luxuriant at this time of year.  I think they were planted to provide wood for the city, but they are now a rich traffic free recreational resource.  I went through several on the approach to Paris yesterday from the southeast (had a deer run out just in front of me) and it was the same story today.  So after the Parc de St Cloud, and after negotiating some busy junctions, I dropped into another forest at Marly-le-Roi and another one near Chambourcy.

Day 9 - Paris

If I had to sum up today's performance in a phrase than 'poor judgement' is the one I would have to use.

The trouble is, for no reason whatsoever I wanted to get myself in a position to get to Dieppe by Thursday.  I don't really need to be there for Friday, but the games I play with myself meant I wanted to better that 'target' by a day.  Somewhere in the back of my head that meant getting to, even through Paris today. I hadn't worked out where I was going to stay and given my tight fisted nature Paris was always going to be a problem.

Things started badly.  A few miles north of Nemurs I get a puncture in my front tyre. Now I haven't mentioned punctures, I felt it was tempting fate because I haven't had any, and given the ground I've been covering I think that's pretty good.  Indeed, I haven't since I bought this bike six months ago and its done loads of off road cycling.