Day 7 The Big Iberian Tour - Santa Cruz

I'm a week into my mega tour of the Iberian peninsula and it's going really well. Without trying too hard I've managed to cycle about 440kms and move south down the Portuguese coast to just north of Lisbon (the blue dot on the map shows where I am now). The plan has worked - every afternoon for 7 days I've turned up at a hotel and they knew who I was, they were expecting me!

I have been lucky with weather although it looks like the heat wave is at an end. It was foggy when I left Perniche and although this soon burned off it's been a muggy sort of day and the mist returned just after a I got to Santa Cruz. The forecast for the next few days is cloudy, a lot cooler, but no rain. I can cope with that.

Today's ride was only 50kms long but it was hilly. The coastal scenery is now verging on the dramatic but the price is hills and like yesterday I managed nearly 1000m of climb. What tends to happen is that you head inland and climb to get around some sort of obstacle and swoop back down to the coast and a little resort. I prefer the swooping to the climbing but the climbing isn't a problem.

Although I still haven't seen a Eurovelo sign I have seen a sign for the equivalent long distance footpath, the E9. Like the Eurovelo this follows the Atlantic and North Sea coasts 5000 kms from the southern tip of Portugal all the way to Estonia.
I've also seen lots a cabbages, fields of them and looking very healthy. Christine is a big fan of cabbage arguing that's it's the only proper vegetable.

The falling temperatures meant that compared to the last few days the beaches were relatively empty. Even the surfers have disappeared although I was impressed by a group of teenagers who were flying along with their surf boards on their bikes.

The route went through the village of Vimeiro which is where Wellington, or Wellesley as he was then, secured his first victory over the French in the Peninsula War, liberating Portugal in the process. There was a statue in the middle of the roundabout representing a British soldier.


Vimeiro is situated at the end of a very beautiful gorge, steep limestone cliffs covered in gorse which was in full flower. The route followed a dirt track through the gorge before returning to the coast and Santa Cruz.


Although the beach at Santa Cruz is stunning the town itself is a little run-down and, given the school holidays, surprisingly empty. Maybe the Portuguese have looked at the weather forecast and gone back to Lisbon.

Day 6 The Big Iberian Tour - Perniche


55 kms is definitely a civilised distance, particularly when it's as hot as it is at the moment (it's hitting 80 degrees). It means I can take things really slowly and arrive early afternoon. Sorry Christine, I know you're arriving on Saturday but I've now got a routine. It involves leaving about 9, stopping for coffee at about 10-45 and then having a light lunch at about 12-30. I then get dinner at around 7-30 which seems to be OK in Portugal.

Today's ride was a real mixed bag, a nice mixed bag but with very different parts. As well as varied scenery it also involved different surfaces including a lot of off-road.

Day 5 - The Big Iberian Tour - Foz do Arelho

Today I've had a really nice ride on my bike. The scenery has improved, I met of a couple of Dutch who were doing something nearly as mad as me, and I visited the beach that has the world's biggest waves. The ride was just over 60 kms long with 1100m of climb which, after a couple of 90km days, felt really civilised.

The coastline has become really beautiful. It is now rugged with towns located in proper sandy bays surrounded by multi coloured cliffs.

Day 4 The Big Iberian Tour - San Pedro de Moel

San Pedro de Moel is a nice place, picturesque and very popular. On a sunny Sunday at the beginning of the Easter school holidays it's a busy place jammed with cars. It sits at the northern end of the Silver Coast and what I hope will be an improvement to the scenery. So far it's all been just a bit too flat.



Day 3 The Big Iberian Tour - Figueira da Foz

My bike can take big tyres and today I wish I'd got them on, the going was rough, hardly any smooth surfaces, and the 80 kms felt long. It was also very hot and although for once I'm actually applying the lotion, I'm getting burnished.

The rough going started as soon as I got back to the route from Aveiro. The gravel path, now following the eastern side of the lagoon I tracked yesterday, was long, straight and relentless. The tide was out and the lagoon had been transformed into a wide expanse of mud and seaweed and locals with buckets were finding something edible.

Day 2 The Big Iberian Tour - Aveira

Aveira is a surprisingly nice place, surprising because the final approach, along tight busy roads in the rush hour, was horrible. It's actually about 10 kms off the route and after making it through the suburbs, its old historic centre, a small port at the end of a lagoon, was packed with Baroque buildings and nice restaurants. I writing this waiting for my eel stew, apparently the local specialty, and half a bottle of Douro to help it go down. It's a tough life!

Actually I think I deserve it. Today's 95km was flat and easy but I was in the sun for a long time. Yes the weather continues to be perfect.




Despite a bit of dodgy navigation leaving Porto, I got away early. The dodgy navigation resulted in me carrying the bike down some never ending stairs but at least I got a great view of that bridge. I then crossed it on the bike which was even more fun. After a final view of the lovely Porto the route turned south along the coast.


Day 1 - The Big Iberian Tour - Porto

I'm in Porto at the beginning of my longest cycling trip " The Big Iberian Tour", an epic 2000km journey south along the Portuguese coast and north through Spain via Seville. If all goes to plan, we (Christine joins the expedition in Lisbon) will be heading back to the UK, on a ferry from Santander, in mid-May.


The initial plan involved a relatively modest adventure along Spain's Ruta de la Plata from Seville to Giron. Based on an excellent website, this looks like a brilliant route but we then noticed that the Atlantic Eurovelo is now complete in Portugal and that we could follow this almost all the way to Seville. As time is not a problem (for me at least), the only question was how much of Portugal to cycle and which airport to start from. 'Most of it' was the answer so here I am in Porto.

Today all I had to do was get from the airport to my modest but comfortable hotel in the middle of the city. It's been a stressful day, so a short ride and a long relaxing afternoon was just what was needed at the beginning of the trip. Getting the bike to Gatwick, packing it into a big plastic bag, with all the vital bits protected by bubble wrap, and onto plane is something I've done before but it's still nerve-racking. I saw the bike go onto the plane, gave the baggage handler the thumbs up, and yes it made it to Porto in one piece.